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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
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    4,632
    The wheel thing: Probably not. Wheel upgrades go for aerodynamics and weight, really. Bear in mind that I have no clue what I'm talking about.

    The frame thing: I've found that relaxed geometry aluminum frames are awful, but the aggressive ones are fine. Perhaps not carbon-comfortable, but then I haven't had the opportunity to test much in the way of carbon frames (that actually fit me, anyway).It's really hard to tell because everyone labels their specific carbon or Al tubing differently. Granted, geometry plays a role in how the tubing goes together and how it transmits vibration, but: Take a look at the same company's road bikes (not the endurance frames), and then if they have a "crit"-oriented road frame, take a look at that too, and compare. While I never had to deal with tri/TT bikes, I'm willing to bet that the carbon used in a TT bike is all about stiff and light, so it may be a wash.

    No way to try one, huh?
    At least I don't leave slime trails.
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    2009 Giant Avail 3 |Specialized Jett 143

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    West MI
    Posts
    4,259
    Quote Originally Posted by Owlie View Post
    The wheel thing: Probably not. Wheel upgrades go for aerodynamics and weight, really. Bear in mind that I have no clue what I'm talking about.

    The frame thing: I've found that relaxed geometry aluminum frames are awful, but the aggressive ones are fine. Perhaps not carbon-comfortable, but then I haven't had the opportunity to test much in the way of carbon frames (that actually fit me, anyway).It's really hard to tell because everyone labels their specific carbon or Al tubing differently. Granted, geometry plays a role in how the tubing goes together and how it transmits vibration, but: Take a look at the same company's road bikes (not the endurance frames), and then if they have a "crit"-oriented road frame, take a look at that too, and compare. While I never had to deal with tri/TT bikes, I'm willing to bet that the carbon used in a TT bike is all about stiff and light, so it may be a wash.

    No way to try one, huh?
    Yeah, no real way to try one...our LBS doesn't really do much with TT bikes. They have a couple of BMC and Bianchi in stock, but too big for me. But we can get a killer deal, because we're part-owners. But DH isn't totally sold on the idea. He thinks TT bikes are silly, but he doesn't actually to TTs/tri/du. My wrist and I think mountain bikes are silly!!

    That thing about relaxed geometry and aluminum...I suspect there's something to that. I hated my aluminum synapse. So friggin' buzzy. But I'd rarely be going further than 60k on a TT bike, so I'm not sure the carbon expense is worth it if I can upgrade other things on a cheaper frame. The wheels that come with both bikes are pretty low-rent aluminum ones. I'd love to look at deeper section carbon, but there'd be no $$ left in the bike budget if I went with the $$er frame.
    Kirsten
    run/bike log
    zoomylicious


    '11 Cannondale SuperSix 4 Rival
    '12 Salsa Mukluk 3
    '14 Seven Mudhoney S Ti/disc/Di2

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Troutdale, OR
    Posts
    2,600
    TT frame is all about getting speed. Comfort is fairly low on the must have list. Comfort does have effect on the performance of the rider but some how it seems to get left out of TT bikes. Less flex more power transfer is going on here. Less flex generally means harsher ride.

    I've never ridden a pure TT bike except for Litespeed blade years ago. It was no fun. I still have my Specialized Transition Pro that I like. I like the ride. It's not as harsh as pure TT. Wheels I have on it are rolf prima echelon with bladed spokes. The three spoke wheels create more drag. prima with bladed SS spokes less so. I'm not all that convinced of the deep dish wheels. It adds too much rotation weight. And amount of turbulence reduction behind the wheel seems more of a hype.

    Aluminum can be made super buzzy and so can a carbon. Its all matter of how the material is used.

    If you want pure speed get the stiffer frame. Use good light weight wheel. You may want a set of training wheel and a set of ultra light weight wheel for race. drag in the hub is important too so you may want to use Campy Chorus or above, Ultegra or above or Phil Wood parts. I don't think 105 will cut it.

    Spend the money on where it counts. Just my 2 cents.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,498
    I know technology has evolved a WHOLE lot since the last time I rode an aero wheel - but 30 years ago, they were talking about aerodynamics but the real benefit was in stiffness. Going from my traditional wire wheel (I want to say 28 spokes x 2 - it was a lightweight wheel intended for roadracing, with what were aero rims at the time) to a disc, the difference in power to the ground was ENORMOUS. I never knew how much my rear wheel was flexing under load until I borrowed that disc.
    Last edited by OakLeaf; 07-14-2015 at 06:17 AM.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    West MI
    Posts
    4,259
    Quote Originally Posted by OakLeaf View Post
    I know technology has evolved a WHOLE lot since the last time I rode an aero wheel - but 30 years ago, they were talking about aerodynamics but the real benefit was in stiffness. Going from my traditional wire wheel (I want to say 28 spokes x 2 - it was a lightweight wheel intended for roadracing, with what were aero rims at the time) to a disc, the difference in power to the ground was ENORMOUS. I never knew how much my rear wheel was flexing under load until I borrowed that disc.
    These are the wheels that come with all 3 bikes I'm considering. I think they may be the same wheels that were on my first road bike, too...which were really low-rent. I had a spoke bust while pedaling along flat, smooth pavement. I'm thinking that as long as the aluminum weren't a super harsh ride or excessively heavy vs. the 2 carbon frames that I'd be better off throwing money into wheel upgrade. I wish it were possible to test ride, but no one wants to order a small frame that won't sell if I don't end up buying it. Even if aluminum weren't super smooth, I have no sights set on any epic Ironman distances. Longest I'd likely do would be about half that far. It's just far enough to be inefficient and uncomfortable long-term in the drops on my road bike.
    Kirsten
    run/bike log
    zoomylicious


    '11 Cannondale SuperSix 4 Rival
    '12 Salsa Mukluk 3
    '14 Seven Mudhoney S Ti/disc/Di2

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Olney, MD
    Posts
    3,063
    I'm in my 9th season of triathlon and I've owned a tri bike for about 6 of those years.

    I have to admit that I'm very pro carbon; I'm not sure it makes a speed difference, but they are just more sexy to me, and shouldn't your bike excite you?

    Yes, wheels would be the first thing to upgrade; they don't need to be aero, but you can gain a lot when you trade out basic stock wheels for something nicer.

    Riding in aero can get you some speed increase, but it *is* all about the engine. Don't assume that the new bike will get you 3.5mph.

    Have you considered going used?
    I'd rather be swimming...biking...running...and eating cheesecake...
    --===--

    2008 Cervelo P2C Tri bike
    2011 Trek Madone 5.5/Cobb V-Flow Max
    2007 Jamis Coda/Terry Liberator
    2011 Trek Mamba 29er

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    West MI
    Posts
    4,259
    Quote Originally Posted by HillSlugger View Post
    Riding in aero can get you some speed increase, but it *is* all about the engine. Don't assume that the new bike will get you 3.5mph.

    Have you considered going used?
    Oh, I'm definitely not expecting 3.5mph, but most people tell me that 2-3mph vs similar effort on a road bike is pretty expected. Frequently in these races I do (which are generally not big -- for some reason dus are never as popular as tris) I'm the fastest woman on a regular road bike and often faster than some on TT bikes. With a speedier bike and at my goal weight (15-20#s lighter) I think I could at the very least have the lead women in my sights. Having a visible carrot is far more conducive to pushing harder than having no shot once the lead 1-2 women mount their bikes.

    I'd have no issue going used...the tricky part is we're part owners of a bike shop, so DH thinks it looks bad (and he's not 100% sold on me even having a TT bike, because he does no TTs/multisport -- but I'm selling my 29er, so I can use the argument that I don't mountain-bike, so this is MY thing). We only carry 3 brands that offer TT (BMC, Bianchi, Wilier), which limits my options...especially at <5'4". Pretty sure the smallest Wilier will be a hair too big. The smallest BMC and Bianchi models are pretty close in size and look comparable to my road bike.
    Kirsten
    run/bike log
    zoomylicious


    '11 Cannondale SuperSix 4 Rival
    '12 Salsa Mukluk 3
    '14 Seven Mudhoney S Ti/disc/Di2

 

 

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