Welcome guest, is this your first visit? Click the "Create Account" button now to join.

To disable ads, please log-in.

Shop at TeamEstrogen.com for women's cycling apparel.

Results 1 to 13 of 13

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Columbia River Gorge
    Posts
    3,565
    I have definitely had way more problems with cable drag leading to shifting issues on SRAM than on Shimano. Especially on my cross bike where I tend to get mud and grit into the cable housings. Regular maintenance helps. This video demonstrates the technique on a mtn bike, but it works the same on a road bike.

    Try that, it may make a huge difference. And I'd say, making this procedure part of regular maintenance, especially after wet rides, will help save your SRAM system from failure. I've managed to break two shifters due to leaving cable drag too long.
    Living life like there's no tomorrow.

    http://gorgebikefitter.com/


    2007 Look Dura Ace
    2010 Custom Tonic cross with discs, SRAM
    2012 Moots YBB 2 x 10 Shimano XTR
    2014 Soma B-Side SS

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Yes, try new cables and housing. Gunk gets in there and then the spring isn't strong enough to shift crisply to a smaller cog. Or you get a crimp in the cable, or the housing starts to fray. Another possibility is a bent RD or derailleur hanger if the bike has fallen on it's right side.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    248
    Quote Originally Posted by Wahine View Post
    I have definitely had way more problems with cable drag leading to shifting issues on SRAM than on Shimano. Especially on my cross bike where I tend to get mud and grit into the cable housings. Regular maintenance helps. This video demonstrates the technique on a mtn bike, but it works the same on a road bike.

    Try that, it may make a huge difference. And I'd say, making this procedure part of regular maintenance, especially after wet rides, will help save your SRAM system from failure. I've managed to break two shifters due to leaving cable drag too long.
    Thank you Wahine! I'll definitely try this. I also found this video which may be useful as well. Opinions anyone? That last step with the grease makes me a little nervous in terms of attracting dirt.

    I'm trying to figure out how to get the cable loose like he did in the video - it didn't look obvious to me on the bike.
    "Susie" - 2012 Specialized Ruby Apex, not pink/Selle SMP Lite 209

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Columbia River Gorge
    Posts
    3,565
    Quote Originally Posted by luvmyguys View Post
    I'm trying to figure out how to get the cable loose like he did in the video - it didn't look obvious to me on the bike.
    The first part of this video demonstrates the technique really well.
    Living life like there's no tomorrow.

    http://gorgebikefitter.com/


    2007 Look Dura Ace
    2010 Custom Tonic cross with discs, SRAM
    2012 Moots YBB 2 x 10 Shimano XTR
    2014 Soma B-Side SS

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Taylor, MI
    Posts
    220
    Thanks. Great video!!!!

    P2
    2018 Trek Silque SLR6 - Selle SMP Glider
    2018 Specialized Dolce EVO Comp - Selle SMP Glider
    2011 Trek Madone 5.2 WSD -Selle SMP Glider
    2013 Giant TCX W - Oura 143

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    2,698
    I like the SRAM Rival on my road bike. That said, routing the shifter cables along the handlebar and under the tape the way SRAM and newer Shimano have it does cause more drag. I can really feel it when I ride DH's road bike with Ultegra 6700 with internal shift routing, compared to my Ultegra 6600 with external routing. So no, it's not just you. I would double-check the derailleur hanger like Deb recommended. I also had an odd situation where the RD itself got "stuck" in the wrong position on the hanger. Shifting to the smallest cog, loosening the the RD anchor bolt, and re-tightening it after the RD re-seated itself seemed to fix the issue. Bizarre, I know....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    959
    First of all, I'm sorry that you weren't treated well at your shop. Perhaps you should let the owner know??

    AS for the problem, I would definitely replace the cables/housing. What I will tell you though is that the read derailleur housing leaving the frame and feeding into the derailleur wears more quickly than any other piece, so replace that OFTEN! NOt only does it affect shifting, it also wears out that rear derailleur quicker as well.

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •