No good advice here. Sram is good on mountain bikesHowever, I'd shoot myself in the foot before I ever had Avid brakes again. I'm also very happy with our wrench. He's very good to us.
If I were you I'd be tempted to find you a new one.
No good advice here. Sram is good on mountain bikesHowever, I'd shoot myself in the foot before I ever had Avid brakes again. I'm also very happy with our wrench. He's very good to us.
If I were you I'd be tempted to find you a new one.
2012 Jamis Quest Brooks B17 Blue
2012 Jamis Dakar XC Comp SI Ldy Gel
2013 Electra Verse
I have SRAM Rival on my road bike and have no problems with it. I have no experience with Apex, don't know where it fits on the quality continuum for SRAM.
I have had experience with Shimano Tiagra and Ultegra RDs. The Tiagra needed frequent adjustments. The Ultegra was great, never caused any problems.
If I were you I would try to find a new LBS. I am not treated that way by anyone at my LBS. If I were, I would call the owner and tell him, because that is not the standard of service that he expects from the people he employs.
p.s. One thing I have noticed with my current bike -- my handlebar bag sometimes hits the barrel adjusters for the derailleurs, and this can lead to shifting problems and require more frequent adjustments. When I am careful to make sure the bag stays clear of the adjusters, I have fewer problems.
- Gray 2010 carbon WSD road bike, Rivet Independence saddle
- Red hardtail 26" aluminum mountain bike, Bontrager Evoke WSD saddle
- Royal blue 2018 aluminum gravel bike, Rivet Pearl saddle
Gone but not forgotten:
- Silver 2003 aluminum road bike
- Two awesome worn out Juliana saddles
I have definitely had way more problems with cable drag leading to shifting issues on SRAM than on Shimano. Especially on my cross bike where I tend to get mud and grit into the cable housings. Regular maintenance helps. This video demonstrates the technique on a mtn bike, but it works the same on a road bike.
Try that, it may make a huge difference. And I'd say, making this procedure part of regular maintenance, especially after wet rides, will help save your SRAM system from failure. I've managed to break two shifters due to leaving cable drag too long.
Living life like there's no tomorrow.
http://gorgebikefitter.com/
2007 Look Dura Ace
2010 Custom Tonic cross with discs, SRAM
2012 Moots YBB 2 x 10 Shimano XTR
2014 Soma B-Side SS
Yes, try new cables and housing. Gunk gets in there and then the spring isn't strong enough to shift crisply to a smaller cog. Or you get a crimp in the cable, or the housing starts to fray. Another possibility is a bent RD or derailleur hanger if the bike has fallen on it's right side.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
Thank you Wahine! I'll definitely try this. I also found this video which may be useful as well. Opinions anyone? That last step with the grease makes me a little nervous in terms of attracting dirt.
I'm trying to figure out how to get the cable loose like he did in the video - it didn't look obvious to me on the bike.
"Susie" - 2012 Specialized Ruby Apex, not pink/Selle SMP Lite 209
The first part of this video demonstrates the technique really well.
Living life like there's no tomorrow.
http://gorgebikefitter.com/
2007 Look Dura Ace
2010 Custom Tonic cross with discs, SRAM
2012 Moots YBB 2 x 10 Shimano XTR
2014 Soma B-Side SS
Thanks. Great video!!!!
P2
2018 Trek Silque SLR6 - Selle SMP Glider
2018 Specialized Dolce EVO Comp - Selle SMP Glider
2011 Trek Madone 5.2 WSD -Selle SMP Glider
2013 Giant TCX W - Oura 143