my new bike?

[Antaresia]

I don't think it's a wsd, it's a soma double cross. I just measured the top tube and it looks like it's the 50cm size.

I'll take better pictures tomorrow, it's dark out now.

And my inseam is around 30", though I'm not sure how accurate my self-measurement was.

I guess I'll just try to get used to it more, and maybe lower the seat a little. I'm not brave enough to ride it to work tomorrow, so it'll be homework.

[laura*]

I just measured the top tube and it looks like it's the 50cm size.

Did you measure the top tube to be 50cm? Or did you measure the top tube, look it up in Soma's geometry chart, and found a match with the 50cm frame size?

FYI: For better or worse, bike frame sizes are specified by their seat tube length. A 50.5cm (actual) top tube is used in the 42cm Double Cross, which is also the smallest frame size. Whereas the 50cm Double Cross has a top tube of 53.5cm and a standover of 29.9 inches.

How well does the bike fit you in terms of reach? Are you stretching forward to the handlebars? Are they at a comfortable distance? Or do they feel awfully close? (This is a much better indicator of fit than standover clearance.)

How high is the saddle on your mixte?

With the step through nature of the mixte, you are far above the frame as you boost up to the saddle when starting. Now, with the nearly horizontal top tube, the frame is always there. You might need to establish different starting patterns for this bike.

[GLC1968]

If you do have short legs and a long torso, it might be the right sized bike even though you can barely clear it. I also have short legs and a long torso and if I am barefoot, I barely clear the top tube on any of my bikes. I have banged myself in the crotch by slipping on wet pavement when stopping my bike more times than I care to count.

As someone else mentioned, standover is not the critical dimension on bike fit. Top tube length is significantly more important. In order to get the right length cockpit on that particular bike, you may have to sacrifice standover clearance. If you can't straddle the bike at all, that's a problem. If it's touching you when you are barefoot (hard to tell from the photo), then it should be ok once you have shoes on.

When I was shopping for a tri bike, I had to rule out entire companies because the bikes were just too tall for me even though the saddle to bar length was correct.

And yes, if your crotch hurts, it's likely due to the saddle, not to the size of the bike. Even if the bike were to big, you would still be able to lower the saddle enough not to cause crotch pain anyway. I'd start shopping for a new saddle.

[Velocivixen]

Stand over height should be determined while wearing cycling shoes that you plan to wear, not barefooted. Secondly, reach is more important than stand over height, IMHO. Once the correct saddle height and fore/aft positions are set for efficient pedaling, then any reach issues can be addressed with changing stem lengths. You can also have the brake levers switched out for "compact reach" brake levers for smaller hands or some levers allow a shim. I changed out the brake levers on mine when they built it up.
Can you get a proper bike fitting?

[Antaresia]

Thanks for the replies everyone! I feel better about trying to get to know this twitchy beast.

I'll ride it around tonight, and down to the LBS tomorrow. Maybe I can work out some of the fit problems, and worst case scenario get mustache handlebars.

I still think it's funny I can go to store, get fitted for a custom bike, and still prefer the vintage beater I bought with no more thought than "it's pretty!".

[goldfinch]

Thanks for the replies everyone! I feel better about trying to get to know this twitchy beast.

I'll ride it around tonight, and down to the LBS tomorrow. Maybe I can work out some of the fit problems, and worst case scenario get mustache handlebars.

I still think it's funny I can go to store, get fitted for a custom bike, and still prefer the vintage beater I bought with no more thought than "it's pretty!".

It might just be because it isn't familiar yet. If I stood over my bike barefoot I'd barely have clearance too. With shoes I am fine. It works out for me just fine. There are no bikes for me where I would have a 2 or 3 inch clearance. I am happy with a couple of centimeters clearance when wearing my shoes. I tend to stop with a bit of a lean, dropping down my left foot and keeping my right on the pedal.

[Miranda]

Fwiw... Just at a glance, I personally think your saddle is a bit too high...

If your saddle is too high, you will have pelvis rocking back and forth while pedaling and likewise rocking pressure on your pubic bone soft tissue parts. Also, if you are rocking as you pedal, it makes it difficult to feel solid and keep your balance.

I'm long torso, short legs, just about like yours, and just did a stand over of my bikes. Bare foot, the top tube is just touching the soft tissue of the pubic bone. With shoes, I have a little clearance.

OK, here's what makes the difference in what I see in your saddle height, vs. mine...

If your pants are low cut and the waist band lays across your boney bump of your hip bone crest... that is where about the top of your saddle should be level for height. When I stand next to my bike, I can press the nose of the saddle right into my hip bone bump- about equal height.

Another check is as you are seated on the bike, and put your heel (with shoes you ride in) on the center of the pedal, your knee should be about locked out at the bottom of the stroke. When you move your foot forward, and put the ball of your foot on the pedal as you would to ride, you should have a slight bend, roughly 15-20degrees. OK, do not instinctively jam your heel down when the ball of your foot is on the pedal and think "I'm still knee locked out" because you do not actually pedal that way- usually your heel is slightly up (gives that bend) in motion.

Your knee position forward or backward (saddle fore or aft) should line up (with the saddle height set first) like a straight line from front of knee passing thru ball of foot, when pedals are at 9 & 3 o'clock.

Your top tube is naturally going to be shorter with a smaller frame, but you have alot options in terms of stem and bars to get comfy. If your old bike is comfy, take it in with the new bike and show the shop this is what makes my body happy. See what can be done with that.

Also, on balance, are the new bike tires skinnier width? Was the old bike smaller tires like a mtb? Or standard road bike 700c tires? You can switch tire width (up to a point) if this helps you get used to your new ride.

And yes, usually lighter, more performance oriented bikes, are more "twitchy" as they say. However, if the bike fits you, this should pass.

You and your machine should become one- the whole ride just disappearing underneath you. That is a piece of what cycling heaven is made of. Take that from someone who has had both cycling hell in a bike sold to me two frame sizes too big, to what I own now- heaven, fits like a glove.

Good Luck!

EDIT ADD: For the $ paid at the LBS, they should make it right. That is part of the point of what you pay for in the lbs price (that's a reputable shop, anyway).