my new bike?

[Antaresia]

So, I got a new bike today.

I was fit for it, but it still feels way too big. I can't stop it without almost dumping it - so I googled "standover height" and it looks like, for commuters, there should be an inch or three from the top tube to your crotch. There is NO space between my crotch and top tube, and I might add, I'm pretty sore there from the ride home.

It's a beautiful bike, but I feel like I'm going to fall off it. I can't even start on a hill at all. I'm also having a problem with the breaks, they seem to big for my hands and I can hardly get any leverage when I'm riding the hoods. But I'm not sure there is anything that can be done about that : /

So help me, did I get an ill fitting bike? Will I get used to this? All my riding experience right now is 5 months on a 30 year old mixte, so I have no idea if I should trust my LBS guy or if I was used as a dumping ground for out dated stock.

[Ered_Lithui]

I don't think standover height is considered a make-or-break for a road bike. I don't really have any on my bikes (but I can still stand flat-footed over the bar without discomfort). If your nether regions are sore after riding, you should try changing the tilt of the saddle either up or down. If that doesn't work, you may need a new saddle. Some saddles are just uncomfortable!

As for brake reach, you can get spacers glued in. They're basically wedges that fit into the brake hinge and bring the levers closer in so you can reach them. I have these on my cross bike: http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/...emId=0&eid=367. They make a huge difference in my ability to brake.

I can't tell from looking at your bike whether it's the right size, but I hope those suggestions help. How tall are you, what is your inseam, what's the model of the bike, and what size is it? Those numbers could help us tell if it sounds like a reasonable size. Good luck!

[Antaresia]

good to know! I'll look into the spacers.

I found this on the Specialized web site too:

If your crotch touches the frame, the bike is too big for you. Don't even ride the bike around the block. A bike which you ride only on paved surfaces and never take off-road should give you a minimum standover height clearance of two inches

http://specialized.custhelp.com/app/...bicycle-sizing

IDK what to think.
The guys also upgraded my parts form Tigra (what I ordered) to 105 at no extra cost. I want to think they're a good lbs.

[laura*]

The guys also upgraded my parts form Tigra (what I ordered) to 105 at no extra cost.

I hesitate to mention this, but your cranks are neither current model Tiagra nor 105. First off, they are using an internal cartridge bottom bracket. (This is actually not necessarily bad.) Second, the backs of the arms are concave - which means they aren't made with "hollow" technology.

They look kind of like Shimano FC-R453 cranks.

[WindingRoad]

Antaresia I'm sorry if I am missing it but what is the manufacturer size on your frame? I think dont go into the shop with guns blazing bc I can tell u r getting frustrated, rightly so. But just to get the shop to do what you need I would point out how tight you r over the top tube and just tell them u are not comfortable and won't be able to ride the bike like that. I'm hoping they will just go ahead and order u a smaller frame size after they double check ur inseam. Be persistent on this.

[goldfinch]

Antaresia I'm sorry if I am missing it but what is the manufacturer size on your frame? I think dont go into the shop with guns blazing bc I can tell u r getting frustrated, rightly so. But just to get the shop to do what you need I would point out how tight you r over the top tube and just tell them u are not comfortable and won't be able to ride the bike like that. I'm hoping they will just go ahead and order u a smaller frame size after they double check ur inseam. Be persistent on this.

I agree, polite but persistent.

[Sky King]

Laura, Please read these posts on our website - Bike Touring News regarding bike fit and bike size. If you need additional information go to rivbike.com and look at more info about measuring your PBH (Pubic Bone Height) also you can find video's on you tube about measuring your PBH. I can't touch the ground without tilting my bike, that isn't what is important. What is important is being confident and having a bike fit that gives you the confidence. Good job and do continue to question - it is all about you!!!

[laura*]

I would be concerned about laura*'s comment about the parts -- if they put lower grade ones that those promised, I'd be upset. It can be a mistake (when I bought mine, they put the wrong pedals, but swapped them right away after checking the original order).

ETA: Re the components, if they upgraded the shifters and rear derailleur to 105 and downgraded the front derailleur and cranks, perhaps it is fair deal? I'd look up the values and I'm sure others here can provide some guidance on fairness...

I checked the tech docs for the FC-R453 cranks. They are 9 speed cranks! (And older technology Tiagra level.) This leads to the question of how many speeds is the bike: 9 speed or 10 speed? (27 total or 30 total.) The R453 cranks may or may not work properly with a 10 speed chain.

For usability, it doesn't really matter if the bike is 9 speed or 10 speed. However, today I'd be afraid of getting a new build 9 speed bike. About the time that the brifters wear out, you might not be able to get new ones! You might be forced to buy an entire new groupset of whatever is current production at that time.

(A while back there was a woman here with a lovely older 7 speed Terry bicycle with worn out components. Shimano no longer sells 7 speed brifters nor 7 speed road bike cassettes. I think she found some used brifters, but otherwise it could turned into a full bike rebuild.)

If the bike was built as a 9 speed, then the brifters are already obsolete. Tiagra is just now moving to 10 speed - thus 9 speed Tiagra is the old generation. And 9 speed 105 is two generations old.

Laura, Please read these posts on our website - Bike Touring News regarding bike fit and bike size.

Antaresia is the one with the new bike...

[Kathi]

More bike fitting information from this website.
http://masterbikefitters.com/


Bike fit vs bike sizing:
http://www.fitwerx.com/bike-sizing-v...g-fit-formulas

Clarity about heel touching pedal:
Misconception: “To achieve proper saddle position, raise the seat until your heel just touches the pedal at the bottom of the pedal stroke.”
Reality: Optimal saddle position cannot be accurately determined from a formula, by measuring the rider’s inseam, or any other general rules of thumb. Optimally, you want a saddle position that allows for full leg extension without hyper-extension, is within your range of motion, helps you maintain a stable pelvis, and encourages proper pedaling technique and optimal muscle recruitment. This is most accurately achieved through observation by a trained eye in conjunction with rider awareness.
http://www.fitwerx.com/most-common-fitting-misconceptions>

Did your fitting include any of these things in this video?
http://masterbikefitters.com/rider-first-fitting-video

Finally, when you picked up your bike did your fitter put the bike on the trainer and make adjustmentments to your saddle, handlebars, etc. Did he look at the angles of your hips and knees? My fitter spent at least 45 min. doing these things after my bike was set up.

Sounds like you got a sizing, not a fitting. If what you got was free, then you got what you paid for.

[laura*]

what's the model of the bike, and what size is it?

Elsewhere she mentioned that she bought a Soma Double Cross. One detail about cyclocross frames is that the bottom bracket is a bit higher than usual. That means the saddle is the same bit higher when adjusted to the proper height.

[laura*]

There is NO space between my crotch and top tube, ...

Here is a picture of me on the bike.

From that picture, it looks like you have short legs and a long torso. This means you should consider men's and unisex bikes and not WSD bikes.

Also from the picture, the top tube and downtube almost touch at the head tube of the frame. This means the bike has a small frame - perhaps the smallest this model comes in.

Possibly any bikes (carried by that LBS) with smaller frames will be WSD. That means they will be much too short (saddle to handlebars) for you. The LBS may have fitted you on this bike to deal with reach issues.

If you were to put on some sneakers or riding shoes, then you would have more top tube clearance.

Your soreness from riding would be a saddle issue, not a standover issue. Your saddle may need to be adjusted, or maybe you need an entirely different saddle.

[Antaresia]

I don't think it's a wsd, it's a soma double cross. I just measured the top tube and it looks like it's the 50cm size.

I'll take better pictures tomorrow, it's dark out now.

And my inseam is around 30", though I'm not sure how accurate my self-measurement was.

I guess I'll just try to get used to it more, and maybe lower the seat a little. I'm not brave enough to ride it to work tomorrow, so it'll be homework.

[laura*]

I just measured the top tube and it looks like it's the 50cm size.

Did you measure the top tube to be 50cm? Or did you measure the top tube, look it up in Soma's geometry chart, and found a match with the 50cm frame size?

FYI: For better or worse, bike frame sizes are specified by their seat tube length. A 50.5cm (actual) top tube is used in the 42cm Double Cross, which is also the smallest frame size. Whereas the 50cm Double Cross has a top tube of 53.5cm and a standover of 29.9 inches.

How well does the bike fit you in terms of reach? Are you stretching forward to the handlebars? Are they at a comfortable distance? Or do they feel awfully close? (This is a much better indicator of fit than standover clearance.)

How high is the saddle on your mixte?

With the step through nature of the mixte, you are far above the frame as you boost up to the saddle when starting. Now, with the nearly horizontal top tube, the frame is always there. You might need to establish different starting patterns for this bike.

[GLC1968]

If you do have short legs and a long torso, it might be the right sized bike even though you can barely clear it. I also have short legs and a long torso and if I am barefoot, I barely clear the top tube on any of my bikes. I have banged myself in the crotch by slipping on wet pavement when stopping my bike more times than I care to count.

As someone else mentioned, standover is not the critical dimension on bike fit. Top tube length is significantly more important. In order to get the right length cockpit on that particular bike, you may have to sacrifice standover clearance. If you can't straddle the bike at all, that's a problem. If it's touching you when you are barefoot (hard to tell from the photo), then it should be ok once you have shoes on.

When I was shopping for a tri bike, I had to rule out entire companies because the bikes were just too tall for me even though the saddle to bar length was correct.

And yes, if your crotch hurts, it's likely due to the saddle, not to the size of the bike. Even if the bike were to big, you would still be able to lower the saddle enough not to cause crotch pain anyway. I'd start shopping for a new saddle.

[Velocivixen]

Stand over height should be determined while wearing cycling shoes that you plan to wear, not barefooted. Secondly, reach is more important than stand over height, IMHO. Once the correct saddle height and fore/aft positions are set for efficient pedaling, then any reach issues can be addressed with changing stem lengths. You can also have the brake levers switched out for "compact reach" brake levers for smaller hands or some levers allow a shim. I changed out the brake levers on mine when they built it up.
Can you get a proper bike fitting?