I'm going to make a motor analogy, but bear with me. Cadence is directly comparable to the RPMs in your car. High cadence is like not shifting right away into the next highest gear. Sure you hear the engine wind up, but many engines function better at higher RPMs because you're handling force in little bites instead of mashing hard. If you shift too soon, you might see your tach around 1k RPMs and hear/feel the car struggle a bit, if you don't 'kill' it and have it shut off on you.
The key is to find a gear that allows you to feel stable and still take just little, manageable bites of the force required to get where you're going instead of a) going to a gear too high and wobbling or b) standing and mashing.
I still don't always find that middle ground, I'm way, way too prone to the stand-and-mash... but I'm working on it.
This site might explain more and in a better way.
http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/touring/gears.htm
Also, as I understand it, the keys to higher cadence can come from spinning classes but also from a proper fit to your bike. If your hips are wobbling from side to side because your saddle's too high, you will go all over the place at high cadence. If you let your core relax too much so when you really start spinning, your center of balance deviates from where it should align with the bike, you'll wobble.
like I said, I'm still working on this, though. I'm naturally a sprinter, would prefer to do something a few times w/ a lot of force than endurance anything but maybe I can retrain myself.



) who were pedaling like maniacs. The second guy in his full cycling regalia came out of nowhere and cycled right by me as if the wind were not even blowing (and it was probably 20mph with 25-35 mph gusts). I was afraid I would not even be able to stay upright, and when I shifted into an easier gear I became violently unstable.
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Since this is my year for learning better habits to prevent more injury...
) faster and more efficient.