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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    2,545

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    Quote Originally Posted by Catrin View Post
    I did get it - but the only way to get it was to release the rear brake caliper...and now I can't get the rear brake cable back on $&*#. A friend has said I can drop by their house this afternoon while he and his wife are doing yard work and he will look at it.

    If this does turn out to be a pure hand-grip issue then will have to find some way of dealing with this. I WAS able to get the tire back on the wheel with my hands only so they can't be THAT weak
    I have this problem, too, with linear pull brakes. I wonder if there's a type of brake that's easier to release/reattach? If so, I would change just for that reason.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    10,889
    I can get the calipers against the wheel without a problem, I cannot get the cable to stretch quite far enough to go into the tab - I really had to loosen it a lot to get it to release in the first place...

    I doubt my LBS would charge anything, but I am unsure they have mechanics on Sunday. I will run it by my friends house first and see what he & his wife thinks - if I have to drop it off at the LBS I will, but it would be a shame to have to leave it at the store for such a small thing.

    I AM considering eventually converting to v-pull long-reach linear brakes on this bike if I like them on the Gunnar. This won't be any time soon, but I don't if that would help this particular kind of problem.
    Last edited by Catrin; 03-06-2011 at 07:02 AM.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Wilts, UK
    Posts
    903
    Yay on getting the wheel out and back in! I'm sure once you have the last bit sorted it will be a piece of cake in future (I haven't done this yet )
    Dawes Cambridge Mixte, Specialized Hardrock, Specialized Vita.

    mixedbabygreens My blog, which really isn't all about the bike.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    10,889
    Everything is now sorted out My friend walked me through the entire rear-wheel-removal-replacement-brake-issue process again and I finally realized what I was doing incorrectly with the brake cable. I was, apparently, trying to "snap" it in/out of the tab rather than just lifting/moving it. I found it also helps to stand with one knee against one of the calipers to hold it against the rim.

    I DID swing my bike by the LBS for a quick safety check considering how much work I did with the brake cable adjustment - really more for peace of mind than anything. It was fine, and no charge

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    El Dorado Hills, CA
    Posts
    3

    Talking Good Stuff

    I'm a newbie so fogive me! Good stuff here - so far I've only seen a front-tire change demo. Good to know that I also need to be prepared for rear flats. Duh!!!

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    10,889
    Quote Originally Posted by LiseB View Post
    I'm a newbie so fogive me! Good stuff here - so far I've only seen a front-tire change demo. Good to know that I also need to be prepared for rear flats. Duh!!!
    My fitter tells me that most tires are on the rear - don't know how true that is...

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by Catrin View Post
    My fitter tells me that most tires are on the rear - don't know how true that is...
    It's true because most of your weight is on the rear wheel.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

 

 

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