New bike = slow, slow, slow

[rubywagon]

I just checked the brakes and they seem to be okay (albeit very dirty from this morning's ride).

I am willing to bet my saddle height had a lot to do with it. I wonder if I didn't have the bolt around the seat post tightened enough because it seems to have gone down a bit from when I initially put it at the correct height.

Liza - I do think I have the uncomfortable gearing spot you are talking about. It seems when I am in my small ring, my legs are spinning too fast, but when I jump up to the big ring, I am not strong enough to really lay into it. I will keep in plugging away and hopefully my legs will restore some confidence in my riding.

Thank you all for the ideas!

[Grog]

I am sorry about what you're experiencing. I'm starting to think about my next bike and that's a thing I fear.

I do think though that raising the saddle will have a BIG impact on your speed. Give it a chance!

[dianne_1234]

I just checked the brakes and they seem to be okay (albeit very dirty from this morning's ride).

Even if your brakes aren't rubbing when you inspect them, I've found normal flexing in the wheels and frame (or fork) can still make them drag, especially when I'm pedalling my hardest!

Many new bikes are delivered with the brake pads set close to the rim, often just 1 or 2 mm between the rim and each brake pad; if that's the case with your new bike, consider loosening the brake cables a little to open up the gap. I like about a 3 to 4mm gap on each side of the rim.

(This also makes braking easier for me, since it brings the brake lever closer into my hand when I squeeze.)

[indysteel]

I just checked the brakes and they seem to be okay (albeit very dirty from this morning's ride).

I am willing to bet my saddle height had a lot to do with it. I wonder if I didn't have the bolt around the seat post tightened enough because it seems to have gone down a bit from when I initially put it at the correct height.

Liza - I do think I have the uncomfortable gearing spot you are talking about. It seems when I am in my small ring, my legs are spinning too fast, but when I jump up to the big ring, I am not strong enough to really lay into it. I will keep in plugging away and hopefully my legs will restore some confidence in my riding.

Thank you all for the ideas!

I bought a new bike last March and had to play around with my fit for a while to get it dialed in. I did a hilly ride in June after playing around with my saddle height. It was one of the worst rides I'd ever done. I could pedal by the end of the ride and I felt horrible about my performance. I didn't notice until I got home that the seatpost had slipped WAY down, which largely explained why I didn't have any power by the end of the ride.

[softthings]

if it is the elite compact, you should check the rubber dust seals on the hubs. if it is new out of the box, a lot of times the guys that put them together don't check those, and sometimes they need a little oil between the dust seals and the hub, otherwise, they can drag. good luck!

[rubywagon]

Thanks everyone! The brake pads are very close to the wheel, but not touching. I will loosen them up a bit and see if that makes a difference. I will try putting a little oil between the seals and hub as well. I appreciate all of your suggestions.

[OakLeaf]

Yes, definitely brakes can drag even if they're not doing it on the stand. I always attributed it to the rim and tire expanding as they heat up, because when it's happened to me it (1) hasn't been intermittent, as flexing would be, and (2) continued to drag when I'd get off the bike and spin the wheel.

BTDT on a very hilly ride. Figured it out on a false flat in the middle of a 15-18% grade. D'oh!

On the gearing, if you're having trouble shifting by feel, make out a gearing chart and figure out what gears on your new bike correspond most closely to the gears you used the most on your old bike. How much difference is there? Where are the big jumps? Maybe a different cassette would make you more comfortable. Any time you shift the big ring it should be a big jump. When you shift the big ring, you'll normally need two or three rear shifts to get one step away from the gear you were in previously. Again, a gearing chart will help you figure that out.

[teamtrinity]

I'm just thinking out loud here...but maybe it'll help. What things affect speed?

1) overall weight of a bike
2) rotation mass of the bike
3) rolling resistance of tires
4) fit/position
5) aerodynamics
6) drivetrain drag
7) gearing

Anything else I'm missing? Weight affect your speed on relatively flat routes is negligible...so rule out #1 unless you're route is very hilly. So how about the wheel/tire/tube combo? Does the new bike have a lighter package? Or heavier? What psi are you inflate to? Does this bike have wider or skinnier tires? Does the tire/tube combo yield lower or higher rolling resistance?

How is the fit on the Ruby compared to the 1.2? More relaxed? More aggressive? Are the seat heights the same? How about crankarm lengths? Crankarm length won't make a big difference...and in the cycling world, 1.5mph (from 15.5 down to 14) is GARGANTUAN!!!!!!!!!! But you definitely don't want to be turning a crank that's too long for you as that could lead to knee problems.

Regarding aerodynamics...they're both roadbikes...so he difference is negligible. Unless the position on the ruby is very very relaxed compared to the 1.2...in which case, aerodynamics of your fit could play a very very non-trivial role.

Drivetrain drag? Double check those brakes to make sure they're not rubbing. Wheels should turn easily and freely...bearings should be well greased. Same with bottom bracket. And the chain. Sometimes, on a new bike, it make take several rides for everything to loosen up.

Gearing...I think might be playing a small role. You went from your Trek with a 50-39-30 crank and 11-26 cassette to the Ruby with a compact 50-36 with a 12-27 cassette. The highest gear ratio on the Trek is the 50-11 combo (8.9)...highest on the Specialized is the 50-12 combo (8.2). So all things being equal (tires, tubes, pressure, rotational mass, your power and cadence,ect)...if you were able to maintain a 60RPM cadence, you'd be going 21.3mph on the Trek and 19.5mph on the Specialized. A difference of 1.8mph...similar to the speed disparity you've been noticing.

So if it's gearing...how can you change it? Get a 11-28 cassette for the Ruby. That'll give you a high end ratio of 8.9 (just like your Trek)...and a low end of 2.5 (pretty close to the 2.3 you can achieve with the Trek) for the hills.

[rubywagon]

So how about the wheel/tire/tube combo? Does the new bike have a lighter package? Or heavier? What psi are you inflate to? Does this bike have wider or skinnier tires? Does the tire/tube combo yield lower or higher rolling resistance? The new bikes' setup is lighter than the Trek, the tires are the same.

How is the fit on the Ruby compared to the 1.2? More relaxed? More aggressive? Are the seat heights the same? How about crankarm lengths? The Ruby has a more aggressive position, crankarms are the same length, I think the seat height may be a little different but I am raising it a bit at a time until it feels right.

Double check those brakes to make sure they're not rubbing. Wheels should turn easily and freely...bearings should be well greased. Same with bottom bracket. And the chain. Sometimes, on a new bike, it make take several rides for everything to loosen up. Just loosened the brakes and will grease up the chain this afternoon.

Gearing...I think might be playing a small role. You went from your Trek with a 50-39-30 crank and 11-26 cassette to the Ruby with a compact 50-36 with a 12-27 cassette. The highest gear ratio on the Trek is the 50-11 combo (8.9)...highest on the Specialized is the 50-12 combo (8.2). So all things being equal (tires, tubes, pressure, rotational mass, your power and cadence,ect)...if you were able to maintain a 60RPM cadence, you'd be going 21.3mph on the Trek and 19.5mph on the Specialized. A difference of 1.8mph...similar to the speed disparity you've been noticing.

So if it's gearing...how can you change it? Get a 11-28 cassette for the Ruby. That'll give you a high end ratio of 8.9 (just like your Trek)...and a low end of 2.5 (pretty close to the 2.3 you can achieve with the Trek) for the hills. This makes a lot of sense to me, the way you have explained it. I wonder how much a new cassette would run me?

Thank you for the detailed reply!

[XMcShiftersonX]

I had the same problem on my new Orbea on one of my first rides and it was the brakes rubbing. Once I fixed that, I was flying! I'm so glad you guys are talking about this, because I had also been wondering if the flex could cause them to rub inadvertently while I'm riding, because off and on during rides sometimes it still seems like I'm pushing harder than I should, but when I stop to look at the brakes, they look fine! I think I'll adjust the cables and see if that helps overall.

-Jessica

[lunacycles]

I'm just thinking out loud here...but maybe it'll help. What things affect speed?

1) overall weight of a bike
2) rotation mass of the bike
3) rolling resistance of tires
4) fit/position
5) aerodynamics
6) drivetrain drag
7) gearing

overall weight of a bike, assuming you aren't going from a 15 pounder to a dutch cargo bike, should have very little effect on "speed." Rotating weight plays a much larger role.

I am also having a hard time buying any measurable effect due to rolling resistance of tires, assuming tires are reasonably similar from bike to bike.

What is "drivetrain drag?"

Why would the gearing matter? If you are riding the same gear on both bikes, it doesn't matter what your lowest gear or highest gear is...unless you are letting the gears choose you instead of vice versa? Bikes don't have automatic transmissions--you choose the gears. The only time it would result in "slowing" is if you are spinning out your biggest gear...and I kinda doubt that is what is happening.

My hunch is that any measurable "slowing" has to do with whatever changes have occurred in your position, particularly all the variables involving your saddle position. That is where your power comes from. Any change in saddle height, saddle fore/aft, or seat tube angle can have an effect on your power and ability to turn over the gears.