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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Broken axles on freewheeled rear wheels are common because of the length of unsupported axle on the freehweel side. Even if this wheel seems fine to ride while broken (and they frequently do), it's not a good idea. Go buy 2 new axles. Take the old ones with you to the LBS to get the length right and try screwing the cones on the new axle. Axles come with 2 different threadings, and they are so close that you can turn the cones 3-4 revolutions on the wrong axle before they bind. Buy cones wrenches also if you want to do this job yourself.

    Looking at your first picture of the L.H.S. above, I'd say the axle protrudes beyond the outside of the dropout face and is too long, yet in the 2nd picture it looks a bit recessed. The quick release doesn't work right unless the axle is recesses about 2 mm.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    144
    Quote Originally Posted by DebW View Post
    Broken axles on freewheeled rear wheels are common because of the length of unsupported axle on the freehweel side. Even if this wheel seems fine to ride while broken (and they frequently do), it's not a good idea. Go buy 2 new axles. Take the old ones with you to the LBS to get the length right and try screwing the cones on the new axle. Axles come with 2 different threadings, and they are so close that you can turn the cones 3-4 revolutions on the wrong axle before they bind. Buy cones wrenches also if you want to do this job yourself.

    Looking at your first picture of the L.H.S. above, I'd say the axle protrudes beyond the outside of the dropout face and is too long, yet in the 2nd picture it looks a bit recessed. The quick release doesn't work right unless the axle is recesses about 2 mm.

    I think you're right, the frewheel side is the one that sticks out the most. I will stop by the used bike shop down the street tomarrow and pick up a couple of new used axles... You've been super helpful, I never would have figured that sizing issue out on my own! Who knows how many bent/broken axles that would have cost me

    It's funny how everything I've done so far is coming in couples so I am repeating everything a few times every time I fix something, so I guess this week is learn your axles week! My roomate said he will help me straighten the bent one, so maybe I'll even get to learn how to do that too

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Looks like you've got about 5 threads showing on the non-freewheel side and 7 on the freewheel side. The non-freewheel side is too long, but the freewheel side could be longer because of the extra width added to the dropout by the deraulleur hanger. I'd suggest when you replace the axle you set the spacing beyond the lock nut on the non-freewheel side, so the axle end sits about in the middle of the dropout thickness, or at least 1/3 of the way in from the outer edge. Then the freewheel side will fall where it wants to fall, but the thickness of dropout + hanger will give you lots of wiggle room. Make sure each side is recessed about 2 mm.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    144
    Quote Originally Posted by DebW View Post
    Looks like you've got about 5 threads showing on the non-freewheel side and 7 on the freewheel side. The non-freewheel side is too long, but the freewheel side could be longer because of the extra width added to the dropout by the deraulleur hanger. I'd suggest when you replace the axle you set the spacing beyond the lock nut on the non-freewheel side, so the axle end sits about in the middle of the dropout thickness, or at least 1/3 of the way in from the outer edge. Then the freewheel side will fall where it wants to fall, but the thickness of dropout + hanger will give you lots of wiggle room. Make sure each side is recessed about 2 mm.
    Well I meandered over to the shop the other day and went through a giant drawer of rear axles, none of which were the same size/threading as the broken one. Of course they didn't have the tool to remove the freewheel off the bent axle wheel either. Sigh.

    I've decided just to buy a pair of aluminum wheels from my roomie. They are nice and it's a pretty good deal... hopefully those will work out better for me! Of course I also stripped the threads inside my derailleur where the shifter cable locks in so well now I have to replace that too! Along with a new cable because now the old one is too short. And take a link out of the chain while I'm at it...

    This thing is never going to be finished!!!

 

 

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