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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,498
    I swapped my 105 cranks out brand new and the LBS wouldn't give me a credit. I'm guessing the new one on eBay was the same story. Some LBS's will credit you when you're buying the bike new, but cranks aren't a normal wear item and they're pretty difficult to sell. I can't imagine a shop giving you any credit for a used one unless they sell a lot of used parts anyhow.

    I just took the chainrings off my 170mm crankset and gave the cranks away. What I would've been able to get for the crankset brand new with the chainrings, was less than new chainrings would've cost me when it came time.

    And yeah, why are you changing the chain already, and what do you mean by "regularly"???
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    646
    Quote Originally Posted by OakLeaf View Post
    And yeah, why are you changing the chain already, and what do you mean by "regularly"???
    Oh right, that. I was advised to change it by my LBS....so I did Since then I researched it myself and am monitoring it (Sheldon Brown's handy 0.5" between the links) since I do not have a chain tool.

    I just thought I'd mention it so you knew there would be minimum damage to the teeth
    Ana
    * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
    2009 Lynskey R230
    Trek Mountain Track 850

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    2,841
    I'm 5'1, 29 inch inseam, and I ride 165's. I haven't tried a 167.5, but I definitely don't like 170's - they hurt my knees.

    You can sell your old cranks on ebay or via your local craigslist. I wouldn't expect to get more than $100 or so for them if that.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Concord, MA
    Posts
    13,394
    I've always had 165s. Also am 5' 1" with 28.5 inseam. When my Kutoa got built up, they "tried" to convince me I would become a "wild devil" and climb like the wind with 170s. One ride with those cranks, sent me right back to the shop. I felt like I could barely push the pedals. I like to spin and I guess they couldn't believe that. It took 2 weeks to get my 165s, but they did it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    646
    My inseam is about 28.5 inches too! I'm not a good climber and I feel like it's a bit difficult to push the pedals

    I'll look into 165mm. . .
    Ana
    * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
    2009 Lynskey R230
    Trek Mountain Track 850

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    355
    My geometry is such that I have to put my seat farther back than I thought
    Hi Ana,

    Hearing this, plus the fact that you have a 28.5 inch inseam tells me a 165mm crank may not be the best idea for you.

    Why do you have to put you seat further back? If it is to achieve the standard "knee over pedal spindle" position, then changing to a 165mm crank will mean you have to push your saddle back even further to attain the same position.

    Shorter cranks are a good idea if you tend to ride at a higher cadence and have relatively short femurs. They can cause problems if you don't and/or if you have any front of the knee kind of pain. Just a heads up.

    Also, presently Shimano offers cranks in lengths of 165 or 170mm, and no longer in 167.5mm. I don't know of any manufacturer who does offer that length at present.

    Good luck whatever you decide.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    646
    Just to clarify, I have to move my seat back in order to have a bearable weight distribution between my saddle and my handlebars

    I'm seriously considering going in for a professional fit as an early Christmas gift to myself...I just feel wimpy because my endurance has been so low. I think that if I eliminate the pain and discomfort from my ride, I will be more apt to hop on my bike
    Ana
    * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
    2009 Lynskey R230
    Trek Mountain Track 850

 

 

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