Be sure to get yourself fit/measured before investing in a 165. I am 2"
shorter than you (also with short legs) but need a 167.5 crank arm.
Be sure to get yourself fit/measured before investing in a 165. I am 2"
shorter than you (also with short legs) but need a 167.5 crank arm.
I swapped my 105 cranks out brand new and the LBS wouldn't give me a credit. I'm guessing the new one on eBay was the same story. Some LBS's will credit you when you're buying the bike new, but cranks aren't a normal wear item and they're pretty difficult to sell. I can't imagine a shop giving you any credit for a used one unless they sell a lot of used parts anyhow.
I just took the chainrings off my 170mm crankset and gave the cranks away. What I would've been able to get for the crankset brand new with the chainrings, was less than new chainrings would've cost me when it came time.
And yeah, why are you changing the chain already, and what do you mean by "regularly"???
Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler
Oh right, that. I was advised to change it by my LBS....so I didSince then I researched it myself and am monitoring it (Sheldon Brown's handy 0.5" between the links) since I do not have a chain tool.
I just thought I'd mention it so you knew there would be minimum damage to the teeth![]()
Ana
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2009 Lynskey R230
Trek Mountain Track 850
I'm 5'1, 29 inch inseam, and I ride 165's. I haven't tried a 167.5, but I definitely don't like 170's - they hurt my knees.
You can sell your old cranks on ebay or via your local craigslist. I wouldn't expect to get more than $100 or so for them if that.
I've always had 165s. Also am 5' 1" with 28.5 inseam. When my Kutoa got built up, they "tried" to convince me I would become a "wild devil" and climb like the wind with 170s. One ride with those cranks, sent me right back to the shop. I felt like I could barely push the pedals. I like to spin and I guess they couldn't believe that. It took 2 weeks to get my 165s, but they did it.
My inseam is about 28.5 inches too!I'm not a good climber and I feel like it's a bit difficult to push the pedals
I'll look into 165mm. . .
Ana
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2009 Lynskey R230
Trek Mountain Track 850
Hi Ana,My geometry is such that I have to put my seat farther back than I thought
Hearing this, plus the fact that you have a 28.5 inch inseam tells me a 165mm crank may not be the best idea for you.
Why do you have to put you seat further back? If it is to achieve the standard "knee over pedal spindle" position, then changing to a 165mm crank will mean you have to push your saddle back even further to attain the same position.
Shorter cranks are a good idea if you tend to ride at a higher cadence and have relatively short femurs. They can cause problems if you don't and/or if you have any front of the knee kind of pain. Just a heads up.
Also, presently Shimano offers cranks in lengths of 165 or 170mm, and no longer in 167.5mm. I don't know of any manufacturer who does offer that length at present.
Good luck whatever you decide.
I heard 167.5 is hard to find so I didn't really consider it as an option
My geometry is such that I have to put my seat farther back than I thought but I'm sort of avoiding getting fit because I don't want to make a huge investment right now (fit = $150-$200 + components =$200-$50). Plus it's winter and my beauty is on the trainer
I think I would ride my bike more if it was more comfortable. The trainer is easier to be comfortable than on the road (plus I can get off at any time).
Maybe it could be my early holiday present to myself...
Ana
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2009 Lynskey R230
Trek Mountain Track 850