Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
Here are some pics of the Miyata 710 I just bought. I took a lot more pics than this for anyone who wants to see more close-ups of certain parts.
I'm trying to decide on handle bar tape and bottle cage colors - any suggestions? The logo is silver, so I thought about matching that, but not sure. I think I'm going to get some tires from Performance. I was thinking about some Continental Ultras because they have some for pretty cheap right now. Should I go with 23s or 25s for this bike?
I'll probably start working on the bike in about 2 weeks when I have more time. I'm planning on doing the anti internal rust thing and then also re-lubing the bottom bracket as well as doing a thorough cleaning and eventually getting rid of outer rust spots and paint chips (I'll need to find some touch-up paint). My experienced bike building friend said he thought the wheels felt solid and probably do not need new bearings at this point. After looking at it, he thinks the bike probably didn't get ridden a lot, but just sat around a lot. He also said that he doesn't think we'll need to replace the chain right off the bat if it's not skipping. ????
I'm new to this stuff, so if there are more great suggestions, please send them my way. I'd like other opinions besides the ones my friend is giving me. He has sort of an "old school" way of doing things, which is cool, but I'd like all kinds of perspectives. Thanks again!!!!
Nice!! A good cleaning and tuneup and you should get many happy years out of her.
What about red bar tape, and silver bottle cages? You mentioned having a little difficulty reaching the brake hoods: since you have aero hoods, you may not be able to slide them up towards you very much. In that case, you may want to get a stem with a shorter reach.
Good luck and have fun working on her!
All vintage, all the time.
Falcon Black Diamond
Gitane Tour de France
Kuwahara Sierra Grande MTB
Bianchi Super Grizzly MTB
The foam handlebar stuff will be easiest to cut off (that stuff is a bear to put on). Some bandage scissors would do the trick without scratching the bars. Once the bars are bare, you can loosen the brake levers and move them around until you like them. They are twisted too much inside right now. Ultimately you might prefer a different bar - those have a long drop and a short reach.
I would replace the rusty chain. You don't know if there is rust inside the pins that might make the chain weak. An SRAM PC58 would be a good replacement. If the cables have any rust at all (or maybe even if they don't) you should replace them and the housing and lube it up good. If it were mine, I'd want to open the hubs before long to check them out. And make sure the freewheel can be removed. Remember to grease the freewheel threads before you put it back.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
The freewheel has 6 chain rings in the back, so wouldn't I need a 6 speed chain? It looks like the SRAM PC58 is an 8spd chain. Or does it not matter?
All vintage, all the time.
Falcon Black Diamond
Gitane Tour de France
Kuwahara Sierra Grande MTB
Bianchi Super Grizzly MTB
To train a dog, you must be more interesting than dirt.
Trek Project One
Trek FX 7.4 Hybrid