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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    1

    Help: Best Trek Lexa size

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    Hello everyone!

    I'm new here. I've found this forum when looking for information about the best frame size for me.

    First let me introduce myself I'm Maria and I'm from Portugal and here bike shops don't really have women road bikes in stock or even unisex bikes in small sizes.

    I was lucky to find a Trek 1.2 size 47 on a shop near home as the owner of the shop bought it to his son. I tried this size and it feels comfortable.
    I didn't really have the chance to try it for real on a big ride or anything thought.

    After checking different bikes and brands I decided my best option would be getting the Trek Lexa SL so went to the same shop today but was confused on what size to get. The owner of the shop told me a Lexa size 50 is equivalent to the 1.2 size 47. I noticed the horizontal top tube is different though, Lexa size 50 has 51.8 cm and 1.2 size 47 has 51.3 cm. The one thing that remains pretty much the same is the reach with only 1 mm difference.

    I'm 54 tall (162 cm) and have 30.7 inches inseam. Does anyone here with similar size to me has a Lexa or another wsd Trek bike? Which size do you think would suit me better? 47 or 50?

    I know I should test ride them, but this is not possible here
    The shop will order the bike for me and they cannot return it if it's the wrong size meaning they would be stuck with a bike no one will ever buy (bare in mind there aren't many girls riding bikes here).
    Anyway I hope some of you can give me a better idea on what size to get. The shop owner doesn't really seem to be worried about getting the right fit but I sure am!

    I have been reading everything I can online but still its difficult because it all comes down to trying different sizes, which, again, is impossible for me to do here.

    Any help or hints would be greatly appreciated

    Sorry for using centimeters instead of inches, it's really messy for me lol hope I got my height in feet right.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Taylor, MI
    Posts
    220
    I am 5'5" and have a 31" bike inseam and I ride a 52cm Trek 2.1 WSD and a Madone (H3) 5.2, also in 52 cm. Based on my experience with my Treks, I would think the 50 cm would be the best for you. When I purchased the Madone, my original fitting for size was on a Lexa (had in stock) since the Madone shared the same geometry.

    P2
    2011 Trek Madone 5.2 WSD - Ruby 155
    2009 Trek 2.1 WSD - Ruby 155
    2013 Giant TCX W - Jett 155
    2010 Specialized Amira Comp - Romin 155

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Concord, MA
    Posts
    13,129
    I am 5' 1" and have a 28.5 inseam. I have a 47 cm Silque (the newer version of the WSD Madone). It fits perfectly. It seems like you would need a different size than me, as you are 3 inches taller, with an inseam that is about 2.5 inches longer.
    Did you have a real bike fit?
    2015 Trek Silque SSL
    Specialized Oura

    2011 Guru Praemio
    Specialized Oura

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    6,465
    Pinson and Crankin know what they are talking about.

    Horizontal top tube, Head tube height, stack, and reach are all taken to account. Along with head tube angle. Those top tubes you mention are very close, and with reach being the deciding factor for difference, they are essentially the same. Even just looking at horizontal top tubes, .5 cm difference is easy to adjust with a slightly longer or shorter stem. Again, head tube height effects stem length, too, as the higher the head tube, the closer the bars are to the rider.

    Definitely the 50.
    Last edited by Muirenn; 01-12-2016 at 06:01 AM.
    So long as the wheels are still turning, life is good.

    Battswebb

    Pinarello Quattro~CAADX~ Zurich Lemond
    Specialized Romin Saddles

    Surly Krampus!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    6,465
    Quote Originally Posted by Lira View Post
    Hello everyone!


    Anyway I hope some of you can give me a better idea on what size to get. The shop owner doesn't really seem to be worried about getting the right fit but I sure am!

    I have been reading everything I can online but still its difficult because it all comes down to trying different sizes, which, again, is impossible for me to do here.

    Any help or hints would be greatly appreciated

    Sorry for using centimeters instead of inches, it's really messy for me lol hope I got my height in feet right.
    More specifically you can use a formula to determine relative sizes (to put you at ease and so others can use this method).

    And by the way, centimeters and millimeters are almost always preferred with bikes, even in the US.

    Acronyms, to make this easer to read. HTH = Head Tube Height (or just HT for Head Tube), HTA = head tube angle, HTT = horizontal top tube.

    A simple way of comparing bike sizes is to think of the bike as a triangle shape from the side. You can find the tangent and compare specific measurements to figure out the overall size. Small differences can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the amount of headset spacers, and using different length stems. Using a .8 cm spacer gives a benchmark for comparison. This numbers allows you to make stack equal on both bikes, and compare differences with reach.

    Given in Centimeters, though mm works, too.

    Bike A
    Trek 1.2 size 47
    Head Tube=12.0, HTT=51.3, HTA = 71.2, Reach = 36.9, Stack = 52.2
    Add a .8cm headset spacer
    New Stack = 52.2 + .8 = 53.0
    New Reach = 36.9 – (.8/tan 71.2) = 36.9-(.8/-1.77)36.9-(-.45)=37.35

    Bike B
    Trek Lexa size 50
    HT = 13.8, HTT=51.8, HTA = 71.3, Reach = 36.8, Stack = 54.5
    Make new stack equal to the Trek’s new Stack:
    New Stack = 54.5-1.5=53
    New Reach = 36.8 – (1.5/tan71.3)= 36.8 – (1.5/-1.42)  36.8+1.05 = 37.85

    Bike A equals 37.35. Bike B equals 37.85. Whatever fitting is done on bike A by choosing a certain amount of headset spacers and stem length can easily be replicated on bike B. Bike B is overall .5 cm larger. Which isn’t significant.

    Alternative method. Check Horizontal top tube and Head tube height. If they appear close to the bike you know fits, use reach as a deciding factor. A high head tube decreases overall cockpit length, but does not change the horizontal top tube (HTT) measurement. That is where reach comes in. A bike with a higher head tube and shorter reach allows you to sit up a bit more than one with a relatively lower head tube and longer reach. For bike A, you would need more head spacers than bike B. Usually, less spacers is preferable, that way, you are not 'fixing' the height and changing weight distribution in the way you sit from what was intended by the manufacturers. Using a lot of spacers messing up handling, too. That is why I think the lexa would be better for you than the 1.2. It has a higher head tube, which means the stack is higher, and will need fewer headset spacers than the 1.2. Altogether, a better fit. If you go down a size, it would need more spacers to raise the bars, and the handling might be a bit twitchy. Though you do want to guard against a too short stem for the same reason. But you would need only a 5 mm or so shorter stem on the lexa, and since it has a higher head tube, maybe even 3 mm shorter.

    Make sense? (Yeah, sometimes I get carried away).
    Last edited by Muirenn; 01-12-2016 at 08:25 AM.
    So long as the wheels are still turning, life is good.

    Battswebb

    Pinarello Quattro~CAADX~ Zurich Lemond
    Specialized Romin Saddles

    Surly Krampus!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    478
    I am 5" 7" and ride a 54cm Lexa. I have long legs and short torso.
    2012 Trek Lexa SL
    2012 Giant TCX2
    2015 Trek Remedy 7
    2016 Trek Lexa C
    2016 Specialized Hellga-Fat Bike

 

 

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