Sewing Cold Weather Gear

[Juliegoddess]

I'm wondering if you ladies could possibly help me. I have my fabric for a windproof riding coat and tights, as there was just NO WAY I was going to be able to spend over $350 for cold weather gear from GoreTex (I decided I wanted to instead eat for the month!)...now my question is, what does the inside of one of these jackets look like? What is the construction like?

I know the back hemline is longer, of course...but is there gripper elastic in the back?

My fabric is fleece-lined. Would I also add a lining on top of this? Do purchased jackets with fleece-reverse-side fabrics add another lining, or do they just finish the seams? (and how are the seams finished? just serged? or perhaps bound with some lycra binding, etc.?)

I just wish I could simply SEE the inside construction. If possible, could one of you ladies perhaps take some photos of the inside of your cold-weather riding jacket? I know, strange request....but there are so few patterns for this sort of garment (actually there are NONE), that regular jacket patterns have to be adjusted.

Thanks in advance!

[Bethany1]

I'd check out a couple of jackets at your LBS to get an idea of how they are done. I don't do a lot of clothing but I'd serge the edges for a neat clean look. Otherwise you have to fold over the seams and topstitch to make it look clean and keep your fabric from fraying. I don't know how much sewing you do.

Keep your jacket as simple as possible. Since you said your fabric is already lined with fleece you shouldn't need to add extra lining. I'd draft your pattern on muslin to get the fit right and then sew up the jacket.

I don't know what you would use for gripper elastic. When I checked out the jackets it said it was draw cord hemming.

You may need a teflon foot that is made for easier sewing if a regular foot/walking foot isn't working right.

Would it just be easier to buy a cheaper jacket for now?

Good luck!

[withm]

http://forums.teamestrogen.com/showt...ghlight=sewing

See this thread.

Also see one of our own member's website:
http://www.specialtyoutdoors.com/tips/pgallery.asp

That should get you started.

[Juliegoddess]

Thanks ladies! And Bethany, I am a clothing designer, so I do sew a LOT...haha! However, I don't do a lot of outerwear. It's a completely different beast sometimes, with the extra notions, hardware, and technical fabrics involved.

Now, if you asked me for a double-breasted wool dress coat, no problem! I can do that! I can also do the biking jacket too...but I've never actually had one in my hands to see how the construction was done, etc.

Now I've got a good starting point!!

[Velocivixen]

Too bad you couldn't find a real cheap jacket that you liked the design of, then deconstruct it and use the pieces as your pattern. My mom used to do this all the time if she found a garnet she loved, then would make it with different fabrics. Or she would take it (usually a dress) apart, trace the shapes onto newspaper for pattern fabric and re-sew the original garment. Then when it woreout or whatever she could sew another one.

[Irulan]

I know the back hemline is longer, of course...but is there gripper elastic in the back?

if you want.

My fabric is fleece-lined. Would I also add a lining on top of this? Do purchased jackets with fleece-reverse-side fabrics add another lining, or do they just finish the seams? (and how are the seams finished? just serged? or perhaps bound with some lycra binding, etc.?)

Fleece is never lined. Well, you could, but if you are using windblock or similar it's overkill. Fleece may be a lining to a shell fabric. Fleece will not ravel. You can just stitch and cut, serger, whatever. Lycra binding is usually done on raw edges in lieu of other finishes.

I just wish I could simply SEE the inside construction. If possible, could one of you ladies perhaps take some photos of the inside of your cold-weather riding jacket? I know, strange request....but there are so few patterns for this sort of garment (actually there are NONE), that regular jacket patterns have to be adjusted.

Thanks in advance!

Let manufactured items be your guide. Cycling wear is cut wider in the shoulders and the armscye is moved forward a bit to account for "the position".

There are patterns. If you go to my website www.specialtyoutdoors.com and look for the fabric sources link, you will find a page that lists all the outdoors fabric retailers in North America and then some. Most of them carry patterns specific to outdoors activities.

Me, I'd never mock off a jacket by taking is apart. Doing a rub off maybe, but my time is worth too much to do it that way.
edit- it will be really worthwhile to study manufactured items so you can pick the correct fabric. Windblock fleece, fleece with a goretex shell, a windproof softshell.... there are a lot of options out there.

[Becky]

I took a look at my winter jacket tonight. It's made mostly of a windproof softshell fabric with fleece bonded on the inside, along with a few non-windblocking panels in key areas (upper back, underarms and sides of torso, etc.). All of the seams are flatlocked. The sleeves are extra-long and sort of a modified raglan style. The bottom is hemmed, with ~6" of elastic at the center back to help it conform to my body and stabilize the exterior pockets. No grippers anywhere...

Hope this helps, and I can't wait to see your finished jacket!

[Juliegoddess]

Thanks SO much, Irulan! Yes, I do agree that lining this jacket would most certainly be overkill. In the photos, you can see the softshell outer layer, and the yummy fleecy lining. You can also see the windproof/waterproof scrim in the center of the "fabric sandwich" too. And besides all that good stuff, this fabric also has a bit of nice stretch to it!



I'm going to make Jalie pattern #2679, inserting reflective piping in the seams, and also lengthening the back. I'm going to check out some cold-weather jackets at my LBS to see if they put elastic in the back hemline, too.

I'll see if my ANCIENT (1987) serger is up to flatlocking. If it's not, for sure I'll use wooly nylon for finishing the seams on the inside.

The reason why I'm going to all this trouble? Well, I sew every single day in my studio, for one thing. For another, my bust is 36H, and no matter how much I lose everywhere else, the boobs REMAIN (that's fine with me, really!). But this means that there is simply NO women's cold-weather riding jacket to be found for me, at any price...and I'm just sick and tired of wearing men's stuff. I've always wished that Terry's XXL jerseys would fit me, but they only go up to a 42" bust, and mine is 44". I LOVE those jerseys! Ah well...I'll just keep sewing!

Thanks for all your help!

[tulip]

I can't wait to see what you come up with, Julie! FWIW, none of my winter jackets have elastic at the hem. I think if they did, it would be annoying because the jacket would tend to ride up, particularly against the slippery Lycra of my tights. I have several jerseys with elastic hems with this annoying trait. My jerseys without elastic perform much better.

PS, I don't have a serger, but my sewing machine is from 1954. It works beautifully.

[Irulan]

Thanks SO much, Irulan! Yes, I do agree that lining this jacket would most certainly be overkill. In the photos, you can see the softshell outer layer, and the yummy fleecy lining. You can also see the windproof/waterproof scrim in the center of the "fabric sandwich" too. And besides all that good stuff, this fabric also has a bit of nice stretch to it!



I'm going to make Jalie pattern #2679, inserting reflective piping in the seams, and also lengthening the back. I'm going to check out some cold-weather jackets at my LBS to see if they put elastic in the back hemline, too.

I'll see if my ANCIENT (1987) serger is up to flatlocking. If it's not, for sure I'll use wooly nylon for finishing the seams on the inside.

The reason why I'm going to all this trouble? Well, I sew every single day in my studio, for one thing. For another, my bust is 36H, and no matter how much I lose everywhere else, the boobs REMAIN (that's fine with me, really!). But this means that there is simply NO women's cold-weather riding jacket to be found for me, at any price...and I'm just sick and tired of wearing men's stuff. I've always wished that Terry's XXL jerseys would fit me, but they only go up to a 42" bust, and mine is 44". I LOVE those jerseys! Ah well...I'll just keep sewing!

Thanks for all your help!

(You sound like a very experienced sewist so there is zero intention of being condescending with the following suggestions. I've found over the years that outer wear is a whole separate category of experience and materials)


Suggestion. I would really test out that flat lock before you commit to it. I've rarely seen a flatlock done on a home serger that looks great and can take the abuse that outerwear gets. Now, if you have a coverlock machine, that's a whole different deal. I finally bought one last year, and it's really made a huge difference on how professional things looks and how well they are built.

I would suggest testing out this seam finish... a wooly nylon two or three thread edge finish, a straight stitch seam, and the seam possibly topstitched from the RS if it's not too bulky. If the wooly nylon gives you fits, a regular thread would probably be fine. A 3 or 4-thread serged seam might be sufficent too... just test. But you know that...:-)

That's a cute Jalie - I hadn't see that one. Are you going to mock it up first? I know, as a theory, what the adjustments for cycling are, but getting them right in practice is a different deal.

Have you thought about pit zips for ventilation?

Cheers Irulan

[Juliegoddess]

>>Suggestion. I would really test out that flat lock before you commit to it. I've rarely seen a flatlock done on a home serger that looks great and can take the abuse that outerwear gets. Now, if you have a coverlock machine, that's a whole different deal. I finally bought one last year, and it's really made a huge difference on how professional things looks and how well they are built.<<

VERY good idea. Yes, I'm going to test out everything. It's highly doubtful that my serger will give a good result. I might just have to have some lumpier seams, but I'm not too worried about it.

Yes, I'd LOVE to have a coverlock...I have two industrial machines now, and just don't have the space for anything else! Most of my designs are done with french seams, so even my serger is rarely used. I suppose if I really got into making activewear, I would CRAVE a coverlock!

Thanks for all the help, ladies! You are wonderful!

[Juliegoddess]

Yes, I got it done, and it was quite easy and went really quick. Some changes I made were: getting rid of the front zippered pockets, adding reflective piping, adding more topstitching, and lengthening the back. This is Jalie 2679, BTW, with a few mods.

I just don't use those zippered front pockets....and I didn't think they would lay very well with this bulkier fabric. I also tended to add topstitching where I thought it would make the garment lay better. Reflective piping was fun, although I wish I would have purchased more. I did discover a way I can add it as a trim, though, as an afterthought, without it needing to go into a seam.

This fabric is gorgeous! It stretches and is so warm...and it fits like a glove!

Now I'd love to wear it out for a ride, but it's 64 degrees right now. Go figure!

~Julie

[Becky]

Julie, that is gorgeous, and I love the pink trim! You are so talented!

[cinnamon_toast]

Wow you did an INCREDIBLE job! I hope you enjoy wearing your creation. I am a seamstress by trade (home dec not apparel) and I am incredibly impressed.

[Irulan]

Very nice. Looks extremely toasty! Did you put pit zips in?

Also, is that double rows of topstiching or did you use a cover stitch for a hem?