WSD steel/making it fit (long, lots of ?s)

[Owlie]

I've started window shopping for my next "fun" bike. Just poking around, not committing to anything. I'm planning on doing some test rides in March or April.
I've got aluminum, carbon and steel frames on my list. I don't see many steel bikes out there, so I have a few questions. I'm less concerned about the ride or behavior of steel (steel ranks higher than carbon on my list!), and more concerned about fit logistics, and a few other things.
1) I've already got the Jamis Quest on my list. Are there any other women-specific steel frames out there?
2)Barring (or not) a "yes" to the first question: I'm a typical candidate for a WSD bike--long legs, short torso. The reach on my current (WSD) bike is a little long (TTT ~54cm). Can any of you provide comment on fitting a unisex bike to a "WSD" body? I'm specifically thinking of a couple of Surly's offerings.
This segues into my next question:
3) At what point, would you say, would it make more sense to order the frame (or frame+fork, if possible) and build it up yourself? I'm thinking, again, of the Surly(s), since the standard components for a complete bike are Tiagra. Technically an upgrade for me, but I want something nicer for a second road bike. I'd also want shallower bars, short-reach shifters and a triple crankset...

I know a lot of this hinges on whether either the Jamis or the Surly(s) fit me (or can be made to.) Thanks for reading, and I look forward to your feedback!

[Artista]

Terry makes steel WSD bikes with shorter top tube lengths & 73-74 degree seat tube angles. Shallow bars & short reach levers are standard for them. The Isis Sport is available with a triple. The price on their website is for Ultegra, but they'll build it up with 105 for a lower price. I'm also very intrigued by the new, semi-custom, Terry Precision that they are introducing soon. The Precision will be constructed based on the rider's size, weight, & anticipated use. Here are a couple of links to more info:
Isis Sport
Precision

Another option is to get a used Terry & have it built up the way you like. That's what I did with my Symmetry. I saved about $900 doing it this way, but my bike weighs about 4# more than the new Isis Sport. BTW, Terry started making their Symmetrys out of aluminum in the early to mid 2000's. If you decide to go used & rebuild it, make sure you're looking at the older, steel frames.

[KnottedYet]

Terry makes steel WSD bikes with shorter top tube lengths & 73-74 degree seat tube angles. Shallow bars & short reach levers are standard for them. The Isis Sport is available with a triple. The price on their website is for Ultegra, but they'll build it up with 105 for a lower price. I'm also very intrigued by the new, semi-custom, Terry Precision that they are introducing soon. The Precision will be constructed based on the rider's size, weight, & anticipated use. Here are a couple of links to more info:
Isis Sport
Precision

Terry bikes are made by Gunnar/Waterford now.

It's been many years since Terry made their own bikes (I remember when Georgena actually made the bikes herself! Gawd, I feel old...).

[Artista]

Terry bikes are made by Gunnar/Waterford now.

True. I should have said that Terry has steel WSD bikes made for them.

[Becky]

I'm a typical WSD rider (5'4", LL, ST) and only one of my 5 bikes is WSD. I didn't really do anything "special" to get the non-WSD ones to fit. They got the same sort of personal tweaks (handlebar, saddle, seatpost) that my WSD bike did, and all of them use a ~100mm stem. (As an aside, my WSD bike shares the exact same measurements, right down to the angles, as one of the company's "unisex" lines. How WSD is it really? )

I guess the question is, what size and effective reach do you need to be comfortable? How much shorter does the TTT need to be? Knowing, or at least estimating that will enable you to start searching for other options from a fit perspective.

I prefer building bikes to buying stock bikes. I've developed some pretty strong fit and componenent preferences over the years, and this option allows me to address them without dealing with a whole bunch of take-off parts. Keep in mind though...it's almost always more expensive to build a bike than it is to buy a complete one. The manufacturers have more component buying power than you or I ever will. There's also the cost of assembly, depending on your mechanical level of comfort and access to specialty tools. Depending on your parts choices, it could be more cost effective to buy a stock bike and swap out a few key parts.

I don't want to dissuade you either way...just throw out some food for thought. Have fun with your hunt, and good luck!

[KnottedYet]

I kind of like this article about frame geometry http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadin.../geometry.html

Georgena Terry did a nice little video about frame geometry, but I can't find it.

ETA: here it is. "If it'd been a snake it woulda bit me." http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pot6W8eQcv4 She made several, and I like them all. Don't miss the Frame Design series, here's Part 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sD7rq...eature=related

[OakLeaf]

At what point, would you say, would it make more sense to order the frame (or frame+fork, if possible) and build it up yourself?

That totally depends on what comes on the off-the-shelf complete bike, what you really want, and what you can live with.

Remember that although you probably know a whole lot more about drivetrain components than wheels right now (and there's a dizzying array of rims, spokes, hubs, and cross patterns available), you can often get the biggest bang for your buck by upgrading the wheels from an off-the-shelf bike.

Price it out! Talk to your LBS. Remember that you save a lot by buying a groupset, so even if (just to pick something out of the air) you could live with 105 shifters, if you want Ultegra brakes, you may do better to get a whole Ultegra groupset than pick and choose each component.

Especially find out your LBS's policy on component swaps on a new complete bike. If you're working with a smaller shop, then most likely you will have to buy any part you want to change. A big shop that can move a lot of parts should credit you for your brand new take-offs.

And of course, if they're doing the labor, will they include that in the price of the parts, or are you going to have an unknown hourly charge to deal with?