Welcome guest, is this your first visit? Click the "Create Account" button now to join.

To disable ads, please log-in.

Shop at TeamEstrogen.com for women's cycling apparel.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17

Thread: Climbing advice

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    WA, Australia
    Posts
    3,292

    Climbing advice

    To disable ads, please log-in.

    Looking for some advice on standing when going uphill. All the hills I have cycled so far I have stayed in the saddle for but there are a few around here (including a 15 degree gradiant) that I would like to attack soon. These ones are steep and look like they may need some out of the saddle work to achieve the top.

    I have been giving it a little try on some of the smaller hills around here but well lets just be honest and say I SUCK at this. The bike moves so much to each side it scares the beejeepers out of me.

    Can you mountain climbing ladies offer up some good tips PLEASE.
    The most effective way to do it, is to do it.
    Amelia Earhart

    2005 Trek 5000 road/Avocet 02 40W
    2006 Colnago C50 road/SSM Atola
    2005 SC Juliana SL mtb/WTB Laser V

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    On my bike
    Posts
    2,505
    Quote Originally Posted by Trekhawk
    Looking for some advice on standing when going uphill. All the hills I have cycled so far I have stayed in the saddle for but there are a few around here (including a 15 degree gradiant) that I would like to attack soon. These ones are steep and look like they may need some out of the saddle work to achieve the top.
    First off, attack the hill at a good pace without mashing the pedals. As the hill gets harder, keep shifting to easier gears and again - don't mash. Depending on your gearing and the steepness of the hill, you might want to shift to one slightly harder gear before you stand. That way, if you need to sit before cresting the hill, you can shift to an easier gear and not beat yourself up too badly.

    Sometimes I'll stand when I still have a few gears left. The key is to always have an easier gear to get into if you need to sit.

    If your bike is rocking sideways, you're using your upper body excessively. Concentrate on using your glutes and pushing in a straight line. Rocking back & forth wildly uses energy that you need to conserve to get up the hill. You will have some rocking, but you shouldn't be tipping over
    To train a dog, you must be more interesting than dirt.

    Trek Project One
    Trek FX 7.4 Hybrid

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    1,351
    Here are 3 tips I have learned (I'm not very good at any of them yet!)

    1. point your toes down, and let the weight of the leg sort of "fall" down on the downstroke (from Jobob's DH)

    2. place the hands out on the hoods for better stability (my LBS guy told me this) When I'm going up a hill in the saddle, I usually have my hands a few inches apart on either side of the stem, not on the hoods, and I was leaving them there when I stood - which is not so stable!

    3. (this is what Dogmamma said) - position your glutes directly over the leg that is on the downstroke so the motion is straight down from hip to knee to pedal, then just a slight shift over to the other side for same thing - the bike stays as vertical as possible, but the cyclist moves just enought to get maximum power. (a cycling coach pal of SadieKate's explained this to me just last week.) I watch strong climbers go past me on hills all the time, and this is definitely what they are doing.

    So now for my question: Now that I see these tips all in one place, it seems like maybe #1 is a technique for "resting" and breaking up the drudgery and pain of climbing in the saddle, as compared to #3, which is more a power and strength approach up the hill. Is that right? Hmm.

    I'm doing a hill rde a little later this morning, and I'm going to practice...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    WA, Australia
    Posts
    3,292
    dogmama and bikerz
    Thanks for the advice when I get out for my next ride I will give it a whirl.
    I will let you know when it all comes together - but I wouldnt be holding your breath for that post this may take a little time.
    The most effective way to do it, is to do it.
    Amelia Earhart

    2005 Trek 5000 road/Avocet 02 40W
    2006 Colnago C50 road/SSM Atola
    2005 SC Juliana SL mtb/WTB Laser V

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    164
    also consider pulling. It can increase your speed going up, which can minimize climbing time, but it also takes more out of you. but it is more efficient, which is part of what standing is about.

    while your body is pushing the weight down on one pedal, you are pulling the other up. It eats up the distance much faster.

    I'd say this requires much practice, as climbing standing burns me out quickly, but if I calculate how I get burned still sitting, I'd say the energy usage is almost the same. It comes down to my mental ability. If I think I'll collapse before I make it up if I take the "long" way, then I stand, and push-pull up the distance, and arrive at the top panting and breathing, and thinking I did it!!!

    You could try practicing standing and pedaling on flats if you are having problems rocking. Your hips should rock slightly, but the bike not so much. Once you get the balance and feel down, it shouldn't be a problem to apply to climbs.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    WA, Australia
    Posts
    3,292
    Quote Originally Posted by ladyjai
    You could try practicing standing and pedaling on flats if you are having problems rocking. Your hips should rock slightly, but the bike not so much. Once you get the balance and feel down, it shouldn't be a problem to apply to climbs.
    ladyjai - thanks for the tips. I will try it on the flat and maybe some small hills until I get a bit better and a little more confident. Perserverance is fast becoming my middle name as I tackle new biking challenges and having this pool of great knowledge and support at TE really helps.

    Thank You all.
    The most effective way to do it, is to do it.
    Amelia Earhart

    2005 Trek 5000 road/Avocet 02 40W
    2006 Colnago C50 road/SSM Atola
    2005 SC Juliana SL mtb/WTB Laser V

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    WA, Australia
    Posts
    3,292
    Just an update for all the ladies that offered up some great advice. I have tried getting out of the saddle on a few smaller hills and well wow Im getting better. I still wouldnt say it looks pretty but its such a big improvement on before.

    Thank you - I just wanted to let you know that the advice you offer to us newbies does get taken in and really makes a difference. In the beginning I was a newbie forty year old with all the gear and no idea - now perhaps its all the gear and a little bit of an idea thanks to you all here at TE.
    The most effective way to do it, is to do it.
    Amelia Earhart

    2005 Trek 5000 road/Avocet 02 40W
    2006 Colnago C50 road/SSM Atola
    2005 SC Juliana SL mtb/WTB Laser V

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    9,324
    Just to throw in a monkey wrench - I often don't stand when climbing, particularly a really long climb like Diablo. I will stay in the saddle the entire way - even the last bit at 17%.

    Staying seated is much more efficient than standing. I really discovered this last year on the DMD staff ride. Mount Diablo was the first climb at 3,000 feet and I didn't want to burn out when I had 9,000 more feet of climbing and a hundred more miles to go. Now I do it all the time because standing doesn't seem to do much for my speed. Of course this only works if you have the gearing to stay seated.

    I will stand on short hills to power over the top and avoid having to shift.

    V.
    Discipline is remembering what you want.


    TandemHearts.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    WA, Australia
    Posts
    3,292
    Quote Originally Posted by Veronica
    Just to throw in a monkey wrench - I often don't stand when climbing, particularly a really long climb like Diablo. I will stay in the saddle the entire way - even the last bit at 17%.
    Staying seated is much more efficient than standing. I really discovered this last year on the DMD staff ride. Mount Diablo was the first climb at 3,000 feet and I didn't want to burn out when I had 9,000 more feet of climbing and a hundred more miles to go. Now I do it all the time because standing doesn't seem to do much for my speed. Of course this only works if you have the gearing to stay seated.
    I will stand on short hills to power over the top and avoid having to shift.
    V.
    Veronica - thanks for the advice. I dont think I will be out of the saddle much either but I did feel it was a technique I should know. I like to be prepared for all situations. Its pretty much hills all around here and so far I have managed all of the ones on my route sitting down. I guess if these hills dont kill me I will become stronger - well lets hope.
    The most effective way to do it, is to do it.
    Amelia Earhart

    2005 Trek 5000 road/Avocet 02 40W
    2006 Colnago C50 road/SSM Atola
    2005 SC Juliana SL mtb/WTB Laser V

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    9,324
    One other thing I do that is weird or so I've been told .

    I do my standing climbs from the drops not the hoods.

    V.
    Discipline is remembering what you want.


    TandemHearts.com

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    999
    Quote Originally Posted by Veronica
    Just to throw in a monkey wrench - I often don't stand when climbing, particularly a really long climb like Diablo. I will stay in the saddle the entire way - even the last bit at 17%.

    I will stand on short hills to power over the top and avoid having to shift.

    V.
    I'm with V on this one. I truly feel like I expend a lot more energy if I stand.

    I just did a ride today with a 17% grade (this was at mile 50 after 5000 feet of climbing.) It was 2 brutal miles with a grade between 13-17%. I sat the entire time (brought to my attention by another rider). By the way - I have a compact double (50-34) with a 27 cassette.

    But, like V - I will stand when going up SHORT hills to avoid shifting..

    Oh - and I am in the hoods
    Last edited by cindysue; 10-02-2005 at 05:29 PM.
    Cheers!

    Cindy

    Team Luna Chix

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    63
    My bit of advice here is to be careful not to pull on the handle bars when going up super steep grades. We have some in Pittsburgh (the kind with steps, not sidewalks next to them) and I actually pulled my front wheel off the ground a couple times--scary. Standing was not an option because of stability.

    This is what I mean about Pittsburgh hills: http://wpwbikeclub.org/pgh_hills.html
    Last edited by bikerbarb; 10-07-2005 at 04:52 AM. Reason: to add a link

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    WA, Australia
    Posts
    3,292
    Quote Originally Posted by bikerbarb
    My bit of advice here is to be careful not to pull on the handle bars when going up super steep grades. We have some in Pittsburgh (the kind with steps, not sidewalks next to them) and I actually pulled my front wheel off the ground a couple times--scary. Standing was not an option because of stability.
    This is what I mean about Pittsburgh hills: http://wpwbikeclub.org/pgh_hills.html
    okay bikerbarb that is just plain scary. Im not sure I would even attempt a hill that steep. If I ever do become fit enough and possessed by the hill demon for a few rash moments and attempt something that steep I will remember your tip.

    Thanks Trek
    The most effective way to do it, is to do it.
    Amelia Earhart

    2005 Trek 5000 road/Avocet 02 40W
    2006 Colnago C50 road/SSM Atola
    2005 SC Juliana SL mtb/WTB Laser V

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    680
    Interesting thread...I have never really put much though into what position I am in on hills (oh that is right, there is none here ) Anyway, in my little hill experience (of course the long climbs have been on a MTB) I will tend to sit on long smooth trail...short technical (or on the roadie...an overpass) I stand and power through it. In the drops hmmmm...I will have to try that to see how it feels!

    Now if you want to experience some HILLS (like those described by barb) trek on out (haha...get it? trek?!) west to SanFran ...OK, maybe next month!!!
    I am a nobody; nobody is perfect, and therefore I am perfect.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    On my bike
    Posts
    2,505
    Quote Originally Posted by bouncybouncy
    In the drops hmmmm...I will have to try that to see how it feels!
    You get more power in the drops because you are able to use those strong glute muscles due to the extemely bent over position. It is also more difficult to hold that position. If I need to crest a short, steep hill very quickly, I'll climb in the drops.
    To train a dog, you must be more interesting than dirt.

    Trek Project One
    Trek FX 7.4 Hybrid

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •