I'm from the "old days" of x-c, when there was no such thing as groomed anything, and we had skis that reached your wrist when you stuck your hand up in the air.
I need to go shopping, eh?
Can you post pics of your skis when you get them?
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I have a borrowed pair of xc skiis that I tried last winter that were sized taller than me when holding vertical (I'm 5'5") that seemed to work ok on fit (the GF that loaned them is about 5'3" to 4"?)??? Only had a chance to use them once. I have just a basic pair/set of gear I was going to buy for myself at a local sporting goods store, and the sales guy said that about "head height" is the general gauage for fit. Or slightly longer. Whatever these skiis are, I am inbetween a small and medium he said. I want to go back and get them before sold out, but what size do I really get? The slightly shorter pair, or longer? I don't want to waste my $ on the wrong size, but don't want to feel like I have "too much" skii to manipulate either. Just a new xc skiier. Think the style would be considered "skate style". Groomed trails, no backwoods skiing, for xTraining purposes. Thanks!
I'm from the "old days" of x-c, when there was no such thing as groomed anything, and we had skis that reached your wrist when you stuck your hand up in the air.
I need to go shopping, eh?
Can you post pics of your skis when you get them?
"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
Guess I'm another golden oldie - I was told that the tip of your skis should go to the palm of your hand when you hold your arm up straight in the air - which then would be about 2-3 inches longer than Knott's method.
Groomed trails, what's that? Snow, Forest Service roads, go!
All this said, my skis have been the the garage attic for 5 years now. Sigh. Little chance to go XC skiing in south Louisiana. Mention "skiing" around here and everyone will assume you're talking about WATER skiing. At first I couldn't figure out why you needed a life jacket to go skiing, and they couldn't figure out why I was talking about my lovely wool knickers. The great cultural divide.![]()
Beth
Well the rule of thumb is:
classic technique, body length + 20cm (add an extra 5 - 10 to that for experts), the poles should be up to your armpits
skating technique, body length + 10 to 15cm (even pros don't go any longer), poles should be up to the chin
I am 160cm tall and skate with 176cm, mainly because I couldn't get decent racing skis any shorter. They are fine but longer would not work and I do have to work on my technique to get the most out of them. If the skis are too long, you can end up treading on the tail of one ski with the other.
My classic skis are 192cm and fast!
How hard do you want to train and how fast do you intend going? If you think that you will want to do any citizens' races, then maybe the longer ones, but you will need to think about technique. If it's really just for training, then shorter may be less hassle.
Another thought for skating skis - have you checked how stiff they are?
Last edited by Bron; 12-04-2007 at 06:35 AM.
The type of skis you get depends on what type of skiing you intend to do: traditional xc on prepared trails, backcountry xc or skate skiing on groomed paths. For skate skiing you need short skis like the ones you tried before. For traditional xc on prepared trails you want longer skis, like Knot described, but fairly narrow. For backcountry skiing you want long skis, but wider (so you don't sink into the snow as much in deep snow).
Well... I took a pic of the loaned ski and pole with my arm extended, next to the torso, but can't get it to upload, whaaa.
Think with what has been posted so far, they are about right on fit. Maybe I can take them with me to the sporting goods store to show the credit card taking help. The pole is about to my armpit, and the ski is about edge of palm, to mid palm. At 5'5", that's 165cm. The markings say: 190cm ski, and 130cm pole. So, with the cm measuring tip posted too, about right?
OK, my HUMBLE xcski experience was about 20 years ago. I used to ski at a county park that rented gear to use on their walking trails, partially plowed for such. The GF that loaned me the pair last year to try said, "Hey! I have a pair of skis from about 20 years ago in my garage you could try before you buy!" I said, "Great, because it's been about that long since I have done it, what a perfect retro match!"![]()
I used the skis last year just doing laps around the subdivion a couple times. Yes, I know, lame. Low, and no thru traffic, so pretty safe. Actually, it rescued my sanity from the snowbound fm. Sometimes there is such a thing as TOO much togetherness in a snowbound situation. Actually, very peaceful... cold nippy sunny day, Ipod tunes, good work out, cute creatures in the snow to watch, and some winter beauty. I thought, hmmm... I remember why I liked this activity.
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In my opinion, ski flex (soft vs firm) is more important than length. Make sure the shop chooses a ski that will work well for your body weight, and isn't too soft or too stiff. That is especially important for striding (classic) skis, so you can set your wax properly when you kick, and still glide (without the kick wax dragging in the track). For skating, it is still really important.
By the way, I'm 5'-6", and my skating skis are all in the 180-185cm range, and my striders are 190cm. I think the main thing about avoiding a ski that is too long for skating is that you can catch the tip in the snow bank on a narrow trail, and they could be more difficult to maneuver if they are way too long. Too short, and the ski won't float over the snow in softer conditions.
Have fun!![]()
Skierchickie... thx for the tip. Lots to learn for me obviously, but I did enjoy myself when out. They had a scale at the sporting goods store to figure the weight into the ski picks equation, but the guy didn't say too much about me... 5'5", so close to you, and my weight lately has been up to 125# with some stuff and not getting my work outs in... but normally I'm average 118# on the gym scale, 115-118# buff on the home scale. Dang kids... why can't they eat some kind of ice cream that I HATE lol
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I'm guessing this guy doesn't have a clue what he's doing.
It's fine to use your body to judge pole length (armpit for classic, between chin and nose for skate) but the skis come in so many different styles that length is going to be completely different for different ski models (so just because you need one length in one particular ski, doesn't mean you want the same length in another ski).
Have you decided between classic and skate? This is the first decision to make (the styles of skiing are completely different - classic skis won't work for skating and vice versa).
Once you've chosen what type of ski you want- look at the different models of skis available. They should have a size chart available (based on weight) that is a good way to judge things. If you're a beginner you want to go for the shorter ski that fits your weight range. (If the store doesn't have the size chart, you can also try looking it up online- just make sure you have some idea of the model year as well, sometimes they modify a particular model over time).
For classic skiing, a decent shop will also look at the wax pocket and your ability to flex the skis. To do this you stand on the skis. If your weight is evenly split between the two skis there should be a space between the ski and whatever you're standing on. They should be able to move a piece of paper back and forth from the back of your heal several inches forward (this is the wax pocket). If you then put all of your weight on one foot and press down- the wax pocket should disappear (they hold the piece of paper under your foot and they shouldn't be able to move it if the ski is properly compressed). There is more than one way to measure this but that's the basic idea.
Does the shop you're looking at carry a lot of cross-country skis? If that's not their main business I'd at least ask for the person who knows the most about them (or consider going somewhere that does a reasonable amount of cross-country ski business).
I second that!
Height only makes sense for the older kind of skis that were made of similar materials and really didn't differ too much. Now a days each kind of ski has its own specific weight recommendation that corresponds to a length of the ski. this way, when you are standing on the ski, the camber will bend down enough so that the middle part, where you put pressure down to kick, can grab the snow.
each ski is different, not just each maker of ski. try going back and talking to a different person at the store, or talking to the person more. If they insist on sticking to height and you aren't the perfectly normal person (and who is?) be a bit more cautious. I think skis are a fantastic investment and I don't see much of a reason for reinvesting each spring. so but the right pair for the first time!
Thanks so much for the additional thoughts! WAY more help than at the store. It's the only place local that sells skiis
. Pretty Mayberry, I know. Would need to do some traveling to find a better shop, but a good point. It's always painful when you spend $ on something to later learn that it was not the correct thing. The store has about 3 choices on hand of xcskis. The rest were down hill, and snow boards. I don't think they were exactly top of the line, but not the worst either, maybe? The guy did mention something about the skiis being made out of different materials for a price difference. So, I would guess that's where the ski compression fit factor comes into play. Something about one being made of foam? One of wood? Or wood core? Don't know what the next up was. Maybe after I'm done with this thread, I can teach the guy lol
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I agree that it doesn't sound like this guy really knows much about what he's selling. What brand(s) are you looking at?
It seems like all the ski brands now put a weight range on the skis (usually in kgs). That is a starting point. Some just say soft, medium, or stiff. The next thing is for the shop guy to either use the fancy new flex-checker-platform-thingy with you standing on the skis, or (as my local shop uses) a gauge that looks like a big c-clamp. The c-clamp is used to put pressure on the skis as they are placed base to base. They can put your full weight, half your weight, etc on using the gauge, and then check to see what the wax pocket looks like, etc. If they don't have at least that, or do the test that anakiwa described, then I would recommend going elsewhere (how close is the nearest town with a ski shop?).
The prices will correlate to the construction of the ski, but not to the flex/compression of the ski. Higher end skis (generally foam core) are lighter weight than lower end ones (more likely to be the wood core ones), in addition to being better made. I'm not sure you could tell the difference based on the flex of the ski. If that makes any sense. Higher end skis will also be made of better materials, including better base material, which will hold wax better. I've seen low end skis that would just not hold wax (not to say that none of them will - just that there is a greater chance).
It might be good to write down the brands and models that are available to you, and then do a little internet research. Sometimes it becomes necessary to learn what you can outside the shop.There are some great ski shops online that may have some useful information posted. Eagle River Nordic, in Wisconsin, does a lot of research on skis and on wax, so their site may be helpful. Their prices tend to be quite high, but they may have good info. My DH bought a pair of Fischers last year at New Moon (also in Wisconsin), and we were really impressed with the way they fit him. They do have a website - not sure if they have much on it that would help. Based on what you've said about this place, you may do just as well or better ordering from a knowledgeable shop over the phone (I got my best skis ever that way. I think I cried the day they broke).
If you are just starting out, you don't necessarily need $400 top of the line skis, but don't buy something you'll regret, either.
Sounds like you are embarking on an adventure! Just study up, and don't be afraid to walk away from the local guys, if that is what it comes to. You can at least read up on the particular skis they are selling.
You definitely don't need top of the line skis- in fact you may be happier on something that's a little bit wider and more stable, even if it's a little slower.
Have you chosen between classic and skate? What type of skiing did you do on the skis you tried? It's important to decide what type of skiing you want to do first, then look for a model designed for that type of skiing, then make sure you've got the right size.
If you really want to buy from this store, at least look up the brand/model online and check a weight/size chart. If there's a better place that specializes in nordic skiing around, it might be worth the drive.
Good luck!
Well, Ladies, I went back the second time to the shop educated with your tips. Think it went better with the store help this time. They had the scale with the color codes, and at about 125# now, I read in the middle of the yellow color, for medium (5'5" btw). Normally, I try to stay between 115-118#. So, hope it's close enough. The skis are Fischer Jupiter classic skis. Looking at my sales info here, drats... guy didn't write down the binding. The boots are Alpina TR25? Seemd ok. They have some thinsulate material in them, and are suppose to be warmer. Lace ups, with a zipper flap closure over that. The poles were 130cm Fischer, just some basic classic ones I guess, and came right under my armpits when verticle. Didn't do the paper test, but he said the scale was a good measurement tool. They are slightly taller than my head. They are waxless skiis. The price for the package of ski, boots, bindings, and poles was $260. So, yes, as suggested in this thread, I don't think I need the $400 skis either for my purposes. I'd rather put $400+ towards a new bike. But, maybe for the price, and basic quality of this pair, they will do the tirck? Hmm, good snow forecasted, kinda itching to go back and get them. Once they drill the holes, no returns. I think they will fit the bill???
It is great that you have a set picked out! I think that you should really practice a lot of skiing before you go out and buy the most expensive skis. I rented a lot before I even bought a middle of the range set.
I also agree, expensive skis may backfire on you. They are designed for highly experienced skiers. It is not just that you may not appreciate the difference, but that they may not ride as easily as a beginner's set. They are designe dto be quite agile and this may feel like a certain uncontrollability to you.
It is like giving a kid a road bike, it isn't a good idea. they need more expereince before they cna handle all of the speediness. Let them grow into it. Not that I am calling you a child, but just think of all of the experience it took to get you to the bike you are riding now. And when you are ready you can upgrade and will be ready to pick out what you want.