Welcome guest, is this your first visit? Click the "Create Account" button now to join.

To disable ads, please log-in.

Shop at TeamEstrogen.com for women's cycling apparel.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 17 of 17
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    WA State
    Posts
    4,364

    To disable ads, please log-in.

    hmmmmm - I'd say it depends on how you want to ride, that you would want to start putting the handlebars up higher to achieve a little bit less length.
    If you are looking for a more comfortable, relaxed style of riding - like touring then that might be a good route to consider.
    If you want to race then you would want to try to preserve some of the drop.
    It can be tough on small bikes in the first place to get much drop, just because the size of the wheels dictates how low you can go (unlike designs for big people who do have a lot of head tube to work with - most of my bikes the down tube and top tube meet or nearly meet at the head tube.... - even on the ones that have 650's)

    Heck I've even got that same Salsa stem on one of my bikes, but put on the other way around, angled down, to achieve a bit less height for the bars, but I looked at my bikes last night and all of them do have some handlebar to saddle drop.

    Another thing to think about, depending on your core strength and flexibility, somewhat lower may actually be more comfortable (if you are inflexible in the low back and hamstrings it can be the exact opposite - getting down low can be quite a pain). On an old bike I had was a bit too large, a bike shop tried to make it fit me by putting on a very long stem (it was a quill stem, so this had the same effect as have a long steerer on an more modern bike) It had a good effect on my knees and legs, but the more upright position put a lot of extra stress on my butt and lower back, which preferred to be somewhat more laid out. I can be fine on a very upright bike (like a comfort bike/cruiser), but the inbetween position was bothersome to me.
    "Sharing the road means getting along, not getting ahead" - 1994 Washington State Driver's Guide

    visit my flickr stream http://flic.kr/ps/MMu5N

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Lakewood, Co
    Posts
    1,061
    Thanks GeoCam,

    Your issue as I read it is finding a bike where you can get a neutral position. Both of these bikes put me in that neutral position. Once you've gotten the neutral position you can go up or down depending on what feels comfortable.

    However, most stock frames don't have a high enough ht tube to allow a person with short arms to be in a neutral postion. Both of my bikes have spacers. On my custom frame I needed a much longer ht to achieve a neutral position but it wasn't possible because the standover would be too high, thus the spacers.

    On the Aegis before adding the spacers and the stem I was way to low. My handlebars had to be raised 4 cm before I could get to a neutral position. It had nothing to do with the tt length but all to do with the ht.

    Headtubes are only so long and there is a max you can raise your handlebars.
    My Aegis has a CF steerer tube so only 3 cm of spacers can be put on it. So I needed a stem with 1cm rise to give me the 4cm of rise. Note that the Serotta doesn't have the stem with the rise because the ht was designed longer.

    This is what I mean by neutral position. This is what I look like on my Serotta. I wish I had a picture of me on the Aegis before I made the changes.
    There's a big difference.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Picture card 1 489.jpg 1.jpg 
Views:	235 
Size:	28.6 KB 
ID:	4648  

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •