If you do decide to get a road bike I wouldn't dismiss a racing geometry just because you're interested in endurance and not planning on racing. If that geometry fits you best and is most comfortable you should go with it.
If you do decide to get a road bike I wouldn't dismiss a racing geometry just because you're interested in endurance and not planning on racing. If that geometry fits you best and is most comfortable you should go with it.
2012 Jamis Quest Brooks B17 Blue
2012 Jamis Dakar XC Comp SI Ldy Gel
2013 Electra Verse
- Gray 2010 carbon WSD road bike, Rivet Independence saddle
- Red hardtail 26" aluminum mountain bike, Bontrager Evoke WSD saddle
- Royal blue 2018 aluminum gravel bike, Rivet Pearl saddle
Gone but not forgotten:
- Silver 2003 aluminum road bike
- Two awesome worn out Juliana saddles
Hi there! I had a longer post typed out, but Chrome ate it.
Don't be afraid of the racing geometry. If that feels more comfortable, go for it, even if you aren't planning on racing. FWIW, I have no plans to race, and my next road bike will have race geometry--that's what fits me better. I feel scrunched on the more relaxed ones. Comfort and fit are paramount. I couldn't really tell the difference between the stiffer Amira carbon and the "plush" Ruby carbon.
Start looking now if you can afford it. Perhaps you'll find a sweet deal on a 2013 model since the 2014s are coming out soon. Just look for 9 or 10 speed cassettes to help get rid of that jump you feel.
At least I don't leave slime trails.
http://wholecog.wordpress.com/
2009 Giant Avail 3 |Specialized Jett 143
2013 Charge Filter Apex| Specialized Jett 143
1996(?) Giant Iguana 630|Specialized Riva
Saving for the next one...
2014 Liv Lust
2013 Specialized Fate Expert with carbon wheelset (sold)
2012 Specialized Amira Elite
2010 Santa Cruz Juliana with R kit and Crampon pedals (sold)
2011 Specialized Ariel Sport,suspension post,Serfas Rx Women's Microfiber saddle (sold)
Thanks for the advice everyone. Just what I was looking for. I will definitely be looking for a longer test ride now. The bike shop knows us well, so I'm hoping it will not be an issue.
I really could not explain why the Amira felt better, but it did. But I think that I would feel better about my decision if I could give it a little longer of a ride.
I could also consider that upgrade on my current bike. Might have those parts in my garage.![]()
You know, sometimes it just clicks. I tried Cannondale's version of the Ruby (carbon women's Synapse) and the aluminum version (CAAD10) of the women's SuperSix (the equivalent of the Amira); the CAAD10 and the SuperSix have the same geometry. The Synapse felt horrible to me. Couldn't get comfortable. It felt harsh. The CAAD10, once I got situated, felt far better. Like it was my bike.
I didn't have that with the Ruby (the Ruby rode nicely, but I felt a bit squished) or the Amira (a bit too stretched out, but it rode well).
IMO, upgrading the Vita to road parts probably isn't worth it. By the time you've paid for new bars, shifters, etc and all the labor that goes into it, you're well on your way to a new bike. Add to that that with what you're looking at, you'll be getting a carbon frame, and, well... I think it's only worth it to upgrade parts if you have a frame that suits your needs and that you are significantly emotionally attached to.
Having 2 bikes is OK. You have one for when your primary bike is in the shop!
Last edited by Owlie; 09-12-2013 at 01:43 AM.
At least I don't leave slime trails.
http://wholecog.wordpress.com/
2009 Giant Avail 3 |Specialized Jett 143
2013 Charge Filter Apex| Specialized Jett 143
1996(?) Giant Iguana 630|Specialized Riva
Saving for the next one...
Keep in mind that you can change the gearing on your Vita by swapping out the cassette for something with closer ratios. Since you have a "granny" gear on this model, you can go with quite a close ratio and still have hill climbing gears. That's a fairly inexpensive upgrade. And it's possible that the in-between gear you need is on the other chainring.
As for getting tired quads - are you pulling back and up at the bottom and back of the pedal stroke, using your hamstring and hip muscles, or are you only pushing forward and down with the muscles on the front of your leg. If it's the latter, pedals with a bit more grip or clipless pedals can divide up the workload between your leg muscles more evenly.
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