As Spring in UK struggles I'm starting to think about getting a winter bike - ideas?

[Bike Writer]

Do you have the opportunity to try out a fat tire bike? Those go in mud and snow like no business, not sure how they would handle the rest of your list though.

[Cyclingfun]

Do you have the opportunity to try out a fat tire bike? Those go in mud and snow like no business, not sure how they would handle the rest of your list though.

Hi - thanks for your reply. By 'fat tire bike' do you mean a mountain bike? I've already discount MTBs as being too similar to my hybrid but maybe I've got muddled... is a far tire bike something else. It sounds like you get plenty of mud and snow in Michigan - is that right?

[indysteel]

A fat tire bike is a type of mountain bike that runs extremely fat (hence the name) tires that are run at a super low pressure. They tend to float in certain types of conditions and terrain, e.g,. sand and snow. Here's an example.

A fat tire bike, in my opinion, would not be the best choice for what you've described. They're not typically particularly light and they'd bog you down on pavement.

I wouldn't necessarily rule out steel just because of weight. For one thing, not all steel bikes weigh a ton, but keep in mind, too, that weight has as much to do with the frame itself as it does with how that frame is built up. So, let's say the Tricross frame, with for, weighs in at 4 pounds (which is one of the reported weights I saw for the bike) and the Cross Check comes in at 7 lbs with frame and fork. Assume you build up the bikes the same way, we're talking about a 3-pound difference. I'm not sure that's enough to be a dealbreaker--or at least it wouldn't be for me. The ride quality, however, for steel can be really worth the weight penalty, especially if you're riding the bike offroad. Just something to keep in mind......

[Owlie]

A fat tire bike is a type of mountain bike that runs extremely fat (hence the name) tires that are run at a super low pressure. They tend to float in certain types of conditions and terrain, e.g,. sand and snow. Here's an example.

A fat tire bike, in my opinion, would not be the best choice for what you've described. They're not typically particularly light and they'd bog you down on pavement.

I wouldn't necessarily rule out steel just because of weight. For one thing, not all steel bikes weigh a ton, but keep in mind, too, that weight has as much to do with the frame itself as it does with how that frame is built up. So, let's say the Tricross frame, with for, weighs in at 4 pounds (which is one of the reported weights I saw for the bike) and the Cross Check comes in at 7 lbs with frame and fork. Assume you build up the bikes the same way, we're talking about a 3-pound difference. I'm not sure that's enough to be a dealbreaker--or at least it wouldn't be for me. The ride quality, however, for steel can be really worth the weight penalty, especially if you're riding the bike offroad. Just something to keep in mind......

This. I have no idea what the weight of my frame is, but my Charge (size small), built up (but without bottle cages or pedals) weighs 22.75lbs, which is quite light for a stock steel bike. I have pedals on there that weigh 1.5 pounds by themselves, though. (I'm not a weight weenie. We were bored at work and got curious.) It also has disc brakes, and I could save some weight by upgrading the components to Rival or getting it some new wheels.

[Velocivixen]

So, Tri-cross is more a do-anything bike, and Cyclocross is more for race?

I knew I still needed a steel cross!!!

N + 2--> A super smooth steel fixie and a Tri-cross do anything. Yea!

This. I have no idea what the weight of my frame is, but my Charge (size small), built up (but without bottle cages or pedals) weighs 22.75lbs, which is quite light for a stock steel bike. I have pedals on there that weigh 1.5 pounds by themselves, though. (I'm not a weight weenie. We were bored at work and got curious.) It also has disc brakes, and I could save some weight by upgrading the components to Rival or getting it some new wheels.

Well, just so you know, the Cross Check has semi-horizontal dropouts with adjusters to give you single-speed compatibility and wheel base adjustability. The Gnot-rite spacing (132.5mm) allows you to run 130mm road hubs and 135mm MTB hubs. (I copied this verbage from the Surly website). So, see, you can have a steel fixie and tri-cross in the same bike. lol

[Cyclingfun]

A fat tire bike is a type of mountain bike that runs extremely fat (hence the name) tires that are run at a super low pressure. They tend to float in certain types of conditions and terrain, e.g,. sand and snow. Here's an example.

A fat tire bike, in my opinion, would not be the best choice for what you've described. They're not typically particularly light and they'd bog you down on pavement.

I wouldn't necessarily rule out steel just because of weight. For one thing, not all steel bikes weigh a ton, but keep in mind, too, that weight has as much to do with the frame itself as it does with how that frame is built up. So, let's say the Tricross frame, with for, weighs in at 4 pounds (which is one of the reported weights I saw for the bike) and the Cross Check comes in at 7 lbs with frame and fork. Assume you build up the bikes the same way, we're talking about a 3-pound difference. I'm not sure that's enough to be a dealbreaker--or at least it wouldn't be for me. The ride quality, however, for steel can be really worth the weight penalty, especially if you're riding the bike offroad. Just something to keep in mind......

You TE'ers are just great! I really appreciate all the comments made - and am very appreciative of the contribution from you, Indysteel, as I hadn't really understood how steel stands in relation to the other materials... I'll give it much more consideration now! The fat bike looks AMAZING. With lovely sandy beaches just along the road, plus ice and snow in the winter, how can I resist?! Oh dear, so now that's n=2 + 2... What WILL my DH say?