If you already have DreamWeaver and even if its an overkill, why not use it? It's pretty good for going between code and design. I use it and I like it. Have two windows opened at the same time. code in one window, "design" in the other.

Don't know of too many others that will do this and still not be an overkill. I did search in Sourceforge.net, where its a repository of all sorts of freeware. Not sure what you want to try from their list.

Are you not wanting to use older DreamWeaver because its not supporting CSS?