
Originally Posted by
OakLeaf
I think you're agreeing with me.

Unless you have your cables crossed the way Ritamarie describes?
My bike has R700 shifters, with the cable exits the same as Ritamarie's, but my cables are routed the "normal" way - RD cable to the right housing stop on the down tube, and FD cable to the left housing stop - so the housings do contact the protective tape on the head tube, and the cables don't cross.
I've never had a bike where the shifter cables go under the handlebar tape. But it seems to me that housing length would have to be very precise to avoid problems.
I haven't had any problem with the cable housing rubbing the tape over the head tube. It's scuffed and there are indentations in it - and if the housing isn't cut to the right length they'll miss it - but it works fine to protect the paint.
Ahhh, yes...then I would be agreeing with you...my mistake.
And I was also mistaken about my shifters on my Trek 2100...they are the R700's just like yours, and are routed the normal way too...no crossing of cables. I really prefer that type of cable routing over the newer under the handlebar tape method. And yes, you are correct about the housing length, as would be indicated by the issues I've been having on my Synapse lately. Shifting was horribly stiff on the rear cog (and front too). Dealer overlooked that it might be the housing/cable length. Took the bike to an independent mechanic and he immediately suspected it to be just that and added some length to where the cable loops into the RD. Now the rear shifting is better...still not perfect, but better. Now if there was only a way to fix the front like that.
2012 Seven Axiom SL - Specialized Ruby SL 155