Question for Cannondale Carbon Syanpse Owners

[nscrbug]

Ritamarie, doesn't that cause a lot of drag in your shifting?

I really haven't had an issue with the tape under my cables.

Actually, I will disagree with this. My Trek 2100 has the older style 105 shifters, with the cable exiting from the inner side of each shifter. That bike shifts flawlessly...like butter...never misses a shift. On the other hand, my Cannondale is equipped with the newer Ultegra 6700 shifters, with the cabling running underneath the handlebar tape. I've had nothing but problems with stiff shifting due to the extremely tight bends in the cables. If I had to do it all over again...I would give up the cleaner look for smoother/easier shifting any day.

[OakLeaf]

I think you're agreeing with me. Unless you have your cables crossed the way Ritamarie describes?

My bike has R700 shifters, with the cable exits the same as Ritamarie's, but my cables are routed the "normal" way - RD cable to the right housing stop on the down tube, and FD cable to the left housing stop - so the housings do contact the protective tape on the head tube, and the cables don't cross.

I've never had a bike where the shifter cables go under the handlebar tape. But it seems to me that housing length would have to be very precise to avoid problems.

I haven't had any problem with the cable housing rubbing the tape over the head tube. It's scuffed and there are indentations in it - and if the housing isn't cut to the right length they'll miss it - but it works fine to protect the paint.

[nscrbug]

I think you're agreeing with me. Unless you have your cables crossed the way Ritamarie describes?

My bike has R700 shifters, with the cable exits the same as Ritamarie's, but my cables are routed the "normal" way - RD cable to the right housing stop on the down tube, and FD cable to the left housing stop - so the housings do contact the protective tape on the head tube, and the cables don't cross.

I've never had a bike where the shifter cables go under the handlebar tape. But it seems to me that housing length would have to be very precise to avoid problems.

I haven't had any problem with the cable housing rubbing the tape over the head tube. It's scuffed and there are indentations in it - and if the housing isn't cut to the right length they'll miss it - but it works fine to protect the paint.

Ahhh, yes...then I would be agreeing with you...my mistake. And I was also mistaken about my shifters on my Trek 2100...they are the R700's just like yours, and are routed the normal way too...no crossing of cables. I really prefer that type of cable routing over the newer under the handlebar tape method. And yes, you are correct about the housing length, as would be indicated by the issues I've been having on my Synapse lately. Shifting was horribly stiff on the rear cog (and front too). Dealer overlooked that it might be the housing/cable length. Took the bike to an independent mechanic and he immediately suspected it to be just that and added some length to where the cable loops into the RD. Now the rear shifting is better...still not perfect, but better. Now if there was only a way to fix the front like that.

[goride]

Just closing the loop on this. I visited my LBS yesterday and they examined the wear spots to check if the carbon was affected. Fortunately, it is just cosmetic at this point. They knew right away what I was talking about. The shop guy who looked at the bike also gave me a sheet of eight of the clear stickers to prevent additional wear and indicated I will need to replace them from time to time. Since I wasn't sure when I would get to my LBS, I ordered a few sets of the stickers from Victory Circle Graphics (they came today - thanks pll for the recommendation.) I put the clear chain stay sticker on as I already had a few small nicks there from dropping the chain. I think I am going to wrap one around the seat post where the strap from the under seat bag wraps around. There is no wear showing there, but might as well protect that area. Thank you all for your help.