This toe overlap thing is gaining urban myth status on some forums. I have an old 650 with major toe overlap, and I have a custom 650 with no overlap, and I know men on Cervelos (and others) that have toe overlap. I had a 700 with some overlap. Anyone would think that toe overlap was the only element of geometry affected (or accommodated) by wheel size and it's just not true. And in most cases, overlap only affects very slow speeds and sharp turns anyway. You learn to ride around it if it's severe, although I prefer it to be minimal.
One of the trickiest things about going custom is trust. It's huge. I know women who could go 650 (so borderline) but have thousands of dollars worth of 700 wheels so they went 700 - fair enough. But understand the anti-650 prejudice for what it is. A custom builder doesn't have a shop full of 700c bikes to sell, so they are often good to discuss it with. As I put it to a young man in a bike shop one day, who told me I didn't want a 650, "So you think I should ride a bike that doesn't fit 365 days a year rather than have issues with parts 2 days a year?" And another guy who spewed the mantra based on debatable triathlon aero concerns: "Do you tell your male clients to ride a bike that's too big for them, or just the women?" It's just silly.
Fit is paramount to me, but then I'm hard to fit. Getting back to geometry, it's all connected and the issue is (or should be) more about the fit of the 650/700 frame than the wheels. Have a look at the differences in geometry between the 650 and 700 Felts for example. You will find that, if your issue is reach, it is often accommodated on a 700 by steepening the seat tube which pushes you forward relative to the bottom bracket - not a position I like for power or handling. Or a high front end - not great if you're slogging away in the drops. A 650 roadie is a very different beast to a LHT though. Even 650 roadies ride very differently to 700 roadies. A 650 roadie will be neat and nimble while the LHT is a long wheelbase with relaxed angles and handling. If you compare the geometry, you'll see there's many differences beyond wheel size.
650s and 26in wheels are a very similar size - 12mm difference in circumference - but you will find 650 wheels are generally lighter than 26in and are designed for narrower tyres than 26in, which is a mtb wheel after all. If it's a quick roadie, you will probably want 23mm tyres (even if you don't know it yet ;-)) and your designer is unlikely to want to use a fork that would accommodate 28mm tyres on such a beast anyway. 650 tyres other than 23mm are rare (I saw some 24s recently). And while they seem slim to start, as already said, you get used to them. And they're lighter and faster. 700c is more common and you can bot a tube from other riders if need be. But there's ways around it. I just carry two tubes and some patches on a long or remote ride. So don't let convenience be a determinant above the right frame geometry. In fact my tourer has 26in wheels but I can use 650 tubes in both the roadie and slim touring/cx tyres. Very convenient. :-) However, there are certainly more options with 700, no doubt about it.
It's great that you have some experience with different bikes. Ride as many as you can before deciding. And have a look at the geometry specs - it becomes illuminating over time. I would go with fit and handling rather than wheel size. If a 700 is the best fit, great (and gives you more options). If it's a 650, great.




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I also want the possibility of a wider range of tires for my Sport. Options, I like options. I didn't know that there are 650b and 650c, something more to research - assuming we do not choose to go with a stock frame size. Margo - thanks for your input, it is helpful to hear a frame-builders perspective. IndySteel, you ask great questions that always get me thinking 