Shifting advice

[PscyclePath]

Catrin:

Two quick notes: The derailleurs only shift when the drive train is in motion (e.g., while you're pedaling); and they won't shift well if the drivetrain is under a heavy load. So, when you hit the shifters, keep spinning the pedals for a time or two until you feel it shift, and if you're cranking up a hill, ease off the pressure on the pedals until the gears shift, then you can pick back up again.

The big idea about shifting gears is to be able to keep up about the same pedal pressure or level of effort, as you roll along, even going up or down hill. You shouldn't have to be mashing a great big gear unless you're into strength training; drop down a gear or two until you can spin alongwith about the same pedal pressure as before you hit the hill, only at a higher cadence. Let the mechanical adantage of the lower gear do the work for you...

[indysteel]

I do think some of this will come in time as you gain strength, conditioning and confidence. I would also suggest adding some cadence drills into your interval routine. Having ridden with you, you do have a nice spin, even without the benefit of clipless pedals (although I think they, too, will ultimately help). My guess, however, is that you could spin a bit faster with some practice. That will help you build better aerobic capacity, too, which is a necessary building block for speed work.

All that said, I would strongly encourage you to just ride. In my experience, there's only so much you can work on at one time. Between bike handling, endurance and distance,you already have a lot to focus on. I know you already know this, but try to remember and accept that it will take take more than one season to meet all of your goals. So, be patient, grasshopper!

[Catrin]

I do think some of this will come in time as you gain strength, conditioning and confidence. I would also suggest adding some cadence drills into your interval routine. Having ridden with you, you do have a nice spin, even without the benefit of clipless pedals (although I think they, too, will ultimately help). My guess, however, is that you could spin a bit faster with some practice. That will help you build better aerobic capacity, too, which is a necessary building block for speed work.

All that said, I would strongly encourage you to just ride. In my experience, there's only so much you can work on at one time. Between bike handling, endurance and distance,you already have a lot to focus on. I know you already know this, but try to remember and accept that it will take take more than one season to meet all of your goals. So, be patient, grasshopper!

This is true - being somewhat of an obsess...errrrr...focused and stubborn woman I tend to expect too much out of myself (limitations? what's that?) I have an entire 600 miles under my belt, and seem to be progressing so I am certainly not complaining.

I am certainly riding as much as I can, and greatly enjoying every minute of it. This isn't something that I can "think through" but to simply do/be. As hard as that sometimes is for me it is also a very good thing.

Psyclepath - thanks for your advice. I guess what gets me to start mashing big gears is that when I down-shift to maintain a certain cadence my speed, of course, drops. I have to get it through my head that right now endurance is more important than speed...I have a natural heavy foot when driving, so this is likely related

I am assuming that cadence drills is where you focus on maintaining a particular cadence for a period of time/distance, regardless of the terrain? I tried to do that on my long ride Saturday, but wound up getting frustrated with my speed and started mashing away...

Thanks for the advice!

[indysteel]

I am assuming that cadence drills is where you focus on maintaining a particular cadence for a period of time/distance, regardless of the terrain? I tried to do that on my long ride Saturday, but wound up getting frustrated with my speed and started mashing away...

There's a couple of suggestions here for cadence drills (note the high cadence drill and spin up drill): http://www.energyfitnesscoaching.com/article.cfm?id=180

I would pick relatively flat areas to do these. And turn off the speedometer. This isn't about speed; it's about technique snd conditioning. As you get used to spinning at a higher cadence, you will likely find yourself getting faster. You will also increase your efficiency and endurance and put less strain on your knees.

[ny biker]

The big idea about shifting gears is to be able to keep up about the same pedal pressure or level of effort, as you roll along, even going up or down hill. You shouldn't have to be mashing a great big gear unless you're into strength training; drop down a gear or two until you can spin alongwith about the same pedal pressure as before you hit the hill, only at a higher cadence. Let the mechanical adantage of the lower gear do the work for you...

I second this.

The advice I was given by my trainer lo those many years ago was: shift to stay within your cadence range. I usually pedal around 90 rpm. Although for me this goes out the window when I go up difficult hills, at which point I drop to as low as 50 rpm as needed to stave off an asthma attack. But otherwise I shift to maintain cadence, even if that means going slower when I shift down.

If I'm trying to work on speed I will do it gradually, shifting up only one gear. But I will shift down again if my knee starts to hurt (patella tracking problem), and I only do it for short periods, basically as interval training.

[Crankin]

When I first got a cadence sensor, my average cadence was about 72. It's now mostly between 80 and 90, unless I am going up longer or steep climbs. How did I improve? By basically trying to maintain my speed and "rhythm" in the easiest possible gear I could use. So, at the point where you can "feel" the pedals, but you are not bouncing around on the saddle. At first, it was hard. And the above advice is right... focus on cadence and not speed. Mashing really hurts my knees and this is also why I don't stand very much.
I was on a group ride, going up some pretty hard climbs (the ride had about 2500 feet of climbing in 35 miles) a couple of months ago and some guy asked me how I trained to spin up a hill at a higher cadence. I had to think (of course he asked me this as I was ascending a 12% grade hill) and finally I said that I didn't really train, it's how I ride, naturally. But, I know at one point, I did make an effort to improve my cadence and now it just seems more comfortable this way. A lot of people in this group seem to think that using a harder gear makes them "tougher" and they eventually start mashing and fall behind me, who is not that fast!

[Catrin]

I just came in from a 20 mile ride in lovely cool temps with no humidity! Such a nice relief - and I finally got chased by dogs but this isn't the thread for that

I tried to keep everyone's advice in the back of my mind and started experimenting. First I tried to turn off my "internal speedometer" and to ignore the real one as much as I could - to pay more attention to how my legs actually felt and to my cadence. I noted a couple of things that were interesting:

1. My knees were far happier with the big chain than small or middle - this was something of a surprise! I wound up, outside of the up-side of a couple of quite steep rollers - in the big chain and in 3 or 4 in the rear.

2. My cadence, outside of climbing those steep rollers, was over 90 much of the time!

3. As I downshifted on the upside of the rollers, my cadence was certainly better than in the past - though no faster - ummm- scratch this as I am supposed to ignore speedometer...

4. My trainer, and all of you very experienced and knowledgeable women were all correct! Not that I doubted that for one instant..

The problem, if there is one, is due to almost always riding by myself. I learn bad habits that way...

5. My knees feel much better than my last ride - though they didn't feel all that bad.

Oh yes, for some strange reason, this happened twice. When I was on the big chain and shifted the rear from 2 down to 1, I was suddenly in the middle chain. This did not make sense, but it shifted back to the big ring without a problem...