Yeah, that sounds better.

The nose of the saddle should be level, and the cantle rises up a bit above it. It's a common mistake, so no-one should ever give up on a leather saddle due to front-end pain if they haven't checked the saddle tilt first.

110 mm is probably your center-to-center measurement. Remember, the ischial tuberosities are kind of like the rockers on a rocking chair: they get wider apart as they move back. Depending on what part you actually sit on, it can be different.

Your outside-to-outside is likely not radically different, maybe a couple cm wider.

Lets play with the numbers, assuming 110mm for c-to-c, 130mm for o-to-o. A B17 is about 170mm wide. The cantle plate takes away the outer cm on each side, so the "sittable" portion is about 150mm. Your c-to-c needs to fit within that sittable range. 110mm easily fits within 150mm. Your o-to-o needs to fit within the over-all width of the saddle, with maybe some extra wiggle room if you worry the outsides of your ischial tuberosities will wollop the cantle plate. Assuming a 130mm or so o-to-o, you still have about a cm of wiggle on each side before you even get to the plate edge.

Rule of thumb:
o-to-o + a couple cm wiggle room = over all saddle width
c-to-c = center of saddle "cheek" to center of saddle "cheek."

This gets modified a bit when you look at Brooks, because of the cantle plate.

In any case, it sounds like the width of the B17 is fine for you. If you have problems later (and I mean later: break the saddle in first!) you might want to look at the "T" vs "pear" aspect. B17 is a bit more of a pear than say a B68. Pear shape might shift you forward and cause some trouble (but honestly, if you ride the saddle enough it will conform to your hip motion so the pear bit might not matter much unless it's drastically wrong for you). A B68, B18, or any other saddle from that family will be a bit more "T" shaped, but the width might just drive you nuts. (210mm vs 170mm)

Teach your fitter about leather saddles, and then ride Ride RIDE!