Need help from Brooks owners, please.

[BleeckerSt_Girl]

What's nice about the S model is that it forces you to sit back further on the saddle rather than ride on the nose.
Since the rails run short on Brooks saddles, one suggestion I can make is to consider a setback seatpost with a looong setback.

I know we all have different experiences, and I must relate my own experience, having ridden thousands of miles on both "S" model and non-S.
The rails on the S model are about 1.5" shorter than the rails on the non S. Thus, if you position your saddle all the way back on its rails, the back edge of the S model was always more forward on the bike than my non-S model. For me, this put my center of gravity way too far forward and i had too much weight falling forward onto my hands. Just my own experience of course.

Just as an interesting visual comparison of the "S" vs. the non-S Brooks saddles...

Here is my Rivendell Rambouillet with its original B17S saddle when I first got the bike:


And here is the same bike a couple years later with a B68 (not an "S" model), same seatpost:


Note also how I initially had my saddle set pretty low when i first got my bike. It seemed so scary tall! lol!

[BleeckerSt_Girl]

For what it's worth-
I went from the B17S to the B17 so i could move the saddle back further. I had been feeling sort of like I was riding a unicycle. It helped a lot, but i eventually found that my sitbones were a bit too wide for the B17 anyway, they were too close to the side frame edges of the saddle, so I then switched to the B68 on both my bikes, which was as wide as they come. (I have very wide hips and sitbones to match) It's been heavenly ever since. i ride on the hoods and drops quite a bit and never have any problem with my B68 because of that. I am most comfortable when the saddle nose is tipped ever so slightly up from level.

I personally found the B17S forced my whole body to be too far forward. The non-S with the longer rails, shoved all the way back, allowed me to get an inch and a half further back and I felt so much better balanced and off my hands.
Incidentally, when we measured me carefully for my second bike, a custom Luna, we found my right thigh bone was a 1/2" longer than my left thigh bone.

[SLash]

Lisa,

I went from the B17S to the B17 so i could move the saddle back further. I had been feeling sort of like I was riding a unicycle. It helped a lot, but i eventually found that my sitbones were a bit too wide for the B17 anyway, they were too close to the side frame edges of the saddle, so I then switched to the B68 on both my bikes, which was as wide as they come. (I have very wide hips and sitbones to match) It's been heavenly ever since. i ride on the hoods and drops quite a bit and never have any problem with my B68 because of that. I am most comfortable when the saddle nose is tipped ever so slightly up from level.

I am so glad to hear that about the B68. Everything I've read (I know, you shouldn't believe everything you read) made me believe that the B68 is for upright "city" riding and not for longer distance drops/hoods riding.

personally found the B17S forced my whole body to be too far forward. The non-S with the longer rails, shoved all the way back, allowed me to get an inch and a half further back and I felt so much better balanced and off my hands.

I feel like my weight is too far forward too. If I end up with a B68 I will not get the S.

After I get the re-fit with the B17, I'll ride and see if there is significant improvement. If not, I'll probably order the B68.

BTW, I love your Rivendell. Amazing that it's the same seat post. Big difference with the 2 saddles.

[sundial]

...if you position your saddle all the way back on its rails...

Lisa, I can see where you would have center of gravity issues with it shoved all the way back. What I strive to do with all my saddles is to have the rails centered over the seatpost, as I find this offers the best fit, and coincidentally, the best balance on the bike. On the bikes with the relaxed geometry I have to use a setback seatpost. On the bike with the more aggressive geometry, I have to use a zero setback seatpost.

SLash, I remember with each new Brooks saddle the feeling of pressure in the hammock area of the saddle. It wasn't causing pain--just pressure. I took shorter rides initially until it was broken in--which was usually around 120 miles for me. Perhaps as you break in the saddle more it will become less of an issue and you'll feel "one" with the bike. I remember having to make several micro-adjustments up until it was broken in. The nose of the saddles are tilted just a hair up and the seatpost is lowered about an inch or so.

If you have questions about the fit, call Wall Bike. They are more than happy to help their customers.

[SLash]

SLash, I remember with each new Brooks saddle the feeling of pressure in the hammock area of the saddle. It wasn't causing pain--just pressure. I took shorter rides initially until it was broken in--which was usually around 120 miles for me. Perhaps as you break in the saddle more it will become less of an issue and you'll feel "one" with the bike. I remember having to make several micro-adjustments up until it was broken in. The nose of the saddles are tilted just a hair up and the seatpost is lowered about an inch or so.

If you have questions about the fit, call Wall Bike. They are more than happy to help their customers.

I've emailed Bill several times and he's been a big help. Very nice guy.

I think the padding in the shorts I wear (Shebeest Triple S) makes what would be pressure into pain (dull pain while on the bike but last night 4 hours after ride it still hurt-still dull). I'm considering giving my shorts a *trim* in the pad area at the front just to see if it will help. The way I look at it I have nothing to lose by at least trying it on one pair.

I'm waiting to hear from the lbs I bought my bike to see when they can get me in for a re-fit. Today I'm having a lot of pain (pinched nerve type pain) in my right shoulder/shoulder blade area that I wasn't having before. Think it's due to my ride yesterday. Granted, it was windy as hell so maybe that's part of it.? After I get fitted and have a chance to ride again, I'll re-evaluate and maybe call Bill at that point. I'm hoping for a *small* miracle after I get my fit adjusted. Plus, as you point out the breaking in process should give me some relief in time. I hope I see some improvement quickly.

Thanks for the tips.

[Biciclista]

before you cut up your shorts, don't you have anything else you could wear? Even a pair of cotton slacks, just to see?

[SLash]

before you cut up your shorts, don't you have anything else you could wear? Even a pair of cotton slacks, just to see?

I've ridden twice in knee length cargo type shorts (regular shorts not bike) and it felt more comfortable than my bike shorts. One pair of my shebeest shorts is pretty worn so those are the ones I would experiment on.

I wouldn't remove the pad just thin it some... as in take a little off the top.

[jezbael]

I recently saw bike shorts with a pad that was split down the middle. I wonder if that would help?

[SLash]

I recently saw bike shorts with a pad that was split down the middle. I wonder if that would help?

I think it would, do you remember the name or company that makes them?

Thanks!

[sundial]

before you cut up your shorts, don't you have anything else you could wear? Even a pair of cotton slacks, just to see?

Good idea, Biciclista. Part of my Brooks break-in regimen is riding in jeans around the hood. SLash, it sounds as if you might benefit from a thinner newer chamois. Perhaps you can call TE and chat with them about chamois and go shopping. You need a new pair of shorts to go with that classy saddle.

[SLash]

Good idea, Biciclista. Part of my Brooks break-in regimen is riding in jeans around the hood. SLash, it sounds as if you might benefit from a thinner newer chamois. Perhaps you can call TE and chat with them about chamois and go shopping. You need a new pair of shorts to go with that classy saddle.

Ha, I'd have a hard time convincing any one that I need a new pair of shorts (but I agree I need a pair with a chamois with a thinner center ). In the past week I've got 2 new (baggy with too thiick liners ) pairs of short/capri.

I have ridden in regular shorts but the seams would bother me for very long rides I think. Do you ride in jeans around your hood 'cause it accelerates the break in process?

[Biciclista]

I ride around in jeans because it's comfortable. Not sure how comfy it would be on a long ride, but for 2-5 mile stretches, jeans and a brooks is definitely a nice way to go.

Took me about 200 miles on average to break in a Brooks, btw.
My husband bought one once that we couldn't break in. We sold it to a 200 pound guy who loved it.

[sundial]

Do you ride in jeans around your hood 'cause it accelerates the break in process?

No, I just don't want to change into roadie gear. I roll up the pants leg and away I go.

My husband bought one once that we couldn't break in. We sold it to a 200 pound guy who loved it.

See, there are advantages to being a Clydesdale. Was it the Team Flyer saddle?