Designing Women's Cycling Apparel

[OakLeaf]

Less chamois! I know there are some manufacturers that still use thinner, narrower chamois on some of their shorts, but they're getting harder and harder to find at LBS. Too-thick chamois are incredibly uncomfortable over long rides, and too-wide chamois are uncomfortable at any distance... tri shorts usually have a chamois that is comfortable for road riding, but the legs are way too short to be comfortable on bike-only days. Also, chamois size better matched to the size of the shorts.

[gnat23]

This is always one of those threads that will conflict itself dozens of times. I feel bad for manufacturers of womens cycling clothing, nobody can agree. I posted this recently on a friend's blog, and I still think it's good stuff:

Realization #1: Mountain Bikers have a much easier time with fashion. MTB jerseys can have modern necklines, 3/4 sleeves, princess seams. The have shorts in plaid, with pockets, embroidery, hip-camouflaging constructions, various inseam lengths. They have *riding skirts*, heck I even own a mountain biking *dress*. I remember the woman leading my MTB tour who wore western style button-up blouses with baggy shorts, or a leopard print jersey with a swirly thigh-length skirt over her spandex; she totally changed my mind about what I could wear on the MTB.

Realization #2: women like to transition seamlessly between active lifestyles. We like prAna and Lululemon and TitleNine and travel dresses at REI. Sexy and sleek by exposing just the right amount of skin and no more. We can choose what skims and what ruffles, what lines to create, because we’ve watched too much “What Not To Wear” or whatever. Going to the gym no longer means boxy heather grey T-shirts and black leggings; we have *options*.

Road cycling? We have a cookie-cutter. Your spandex will be this length, this shape, have these pockets here; the only major creativity seems to have been in what goes on that template. Only recently has more attention has come to functional details like where elastic goes and how tight it is, or where boobs go on a pair of bibshorts, etc.

Which leads me to Rapha again: ok, we get better fabrics, we get some curves thrown in, but I don’t think this will revolutionize women’s road cycling apparel. In addition, I appreciate what companies like Sheila Moon and B. Spoke Tailor have done, but their on-and-off bike stuff seems trapped by a nod to retro tweed-style rides.

I think the solution is FIRST in function: non-tangling, midriff covering, circulation promoting, and maybe a little warmer in the toes while we’re at it.

Then, we need to think outside the S/M/L box. Maybe by cup size? Thigh circumference ranges? Long/short options on torsos and legs? Make things with more adjustability, maybe, with strategic velcro and elastic drawstrings?

Finally, get some real freakin’ fashion involved. Some women wear cashmere twinsets, some wear fishnet shirts, ain’t NO WAY a few patterns are going to appeal to everyone. Lets look at slight cowl necks or longer tux-coat inspired backs. Let’s ruche, gather, drape on occasion. Let’s be inspired by wool and argyle and Betsey Johnson skulls and Chanel jackets. Let’s watch powerful women in the Olympics, from snowboarders to figure skaters, let’s watch episodes of Wonder Woman, let’s idolize librarians and pinups. Let’s be able to ride a century while looking comfortable enough for the bistro afterward. There must be more to life than race or club cut, butterflies or solids, form or function, you know?

Also, I want legwarmers that look like fishnets. But I'm probably the only one.

-- gnat! (Zhush! Needs more Zhush!)

[shootingstar]

It's a great summary, gnat on different cycling clothing style needs for different types/genres of cycling.

As for your last paragraph on more 'fashion', it made me laugh "let's idolize the librarians and pinups". No the real hidden trend, is combining the 2, geeky is sexy.

[katherine]

Realization #1: Mountain Bikers have a much easier time with fashion. MTB jerseys can have modern necklines, 3/4 sleeves, princess seams. The have shorts in plaid, with pockets, embroidery, hip-camouflaging constructions, various inseam lengths. They have *riding skirts*, heck I even own a mountain biking *dress*. I remember the woman leading my MTB tour who wore western style button-up blouses with baggy shorts, or a leopard print jersey with a swirly thigh-length skirt over her spandex; she totally changed my mind about what I could wear on the MTB.

Realization #2: women like to transition seamlessly between active lifestyles. We like prAna and Lululemon and TitleNine and travel dresses at REI. Sexy and sleek by exposing just the right amount of skin and no more. We can choose what skims and what ruffles, what lines to create, because we’ve watched too much “What Not To Wear” or whatever. Going to the gym no longer means boxy heather grey T-shirts and black leggings; we have *options*.

On mtn bikes and skorts:
I mtn bike in a purple skort from terry and love it.
But the problem with mtn bike shorts is very often, in my experience, that they are cut for a more boyish frame and I have hips, if the shorts fit my waist they won't go over my hips and if they fit my hips there's a huge gap at the waist. And I HATE an elastic waist, yuck.
I want as many options with my gear as I have in my regular clothing, and lots of pockets, those on baggy shorts should close with velcro.

[meemsie]

Wow...what a novel idea to find apparel that we love! I have decided it's pretty much impossible to find anything that fits my body. Which leads me down the road of "if there's nothing that fits me, maybe someone who looks like me shouldn't be doing this." Terrible stuff, that!

Anyway, if I could design cycling clothing, I would make a womens jersey that actually has space for breasts! There are thousands of great looking tops for women without them, but for those of us with big ones, there are none, and by the time the top is big enough in the chest, it's huge in the body. I like an ever-so-slightly loose top, as an elastic waist that rides up drives me nuts.

Someone mentioned shorts that don't dig in to the worst part of the thigh...YES! Spanx do just fine, so why can't cycling shorts? I also prefer a smaller chamois since some of them get so wide they do more harm than good.

As for the lady who wants leg warmers that look like fishnets, have you seen the awesome ones made by Epix Gear? www.epixgear.com. They are great! Garters and fishnets, and there is also a cute striped pair that I need for next winter, too. I love function with a sense of humor!

[NoNo]

Anyway, if I could design cycling clothing, I would make a womens jersey that actually has space for breasts! There are thousands of great looking tops for women without them, but for those of us with big ones, there are none, and by the time the top is big enough in the chest, it's huge in the body. I like an ever-so-slightly loose top, as an elastic waist that rides up drives me nuts.

Along those lines, how about assuming just because you're generally small-framed up top, it means you don't have breasts! I just bought a jersey, size small, that I could barely zip over my chest. And I'm not even that large on top. Why do I have to lose a close fit on the sides and in the waist just to accommodate my chest? Very frustrating.

It would be nice for us shorties if capris and knickers came in short lengths. I hate when a "capri" comes mid-calf or lower.

Just because I'm a girl, it doesn't need everything has to be pink or pastel. Just saying.

Plaid. I need more plaid!

[Susan Otcenas]

Plaid. I need more plaid!

Plaid!!

http://www.teamestrogen.com/search.ep?keyWords=plaid

[Susan Otcenas]

Someone mentioned shorts that don't dig in to the worst part of the thigh...YES! Spanx do just fine, so why can't cycling shorts? I also prefer a smaller chamois since some of them get so wide they do more harm than good.

28 different shorts, all without leg grippers. No leg grippers, no squeezy looks!

http://tinyurl.com/38b92rc

[Owlie]

I've never had a problem with leg grippers digging into my thighs. Quite the opposite, actually, while the rest of the short fits fine.

I really wish more jerseys had a zippered pocket so my ID and whatnot doesn't fly out. I only have one, my beloved Foska jersey, with the fourth zippered pocket in addition to the normal three on the back. The company says it's for beer tokens.

Apparently cycling gear is designed for stick people. I could stand to loose a few pounds, certainly, but jerseys generally fit fine or even loose through the waist. I have to go up a size to accomodate my boobs. And I'm a B-cup.

Collars. I like the ones like these. I don't like regular collars fully zipped. I feel slightly like I'm being choked.

[Zen]

A pants rise that covers my iliac crest.

[Susan Otcenas]

I've never had a problem with leg grippers digging into my thighs. Quite the opposite, actually, while the rest of the short fits fine.

In that case, you'll love Louis Garneau, Zoot, Tyr... Smaller than average leg hole openings. Our customer service staff is happy to make suggestions.

[Zen]

As for the lady who wants leg warmers that look like fishnets, have you seen the awesome ones made by Epix Gear? www.epixgear.com. They are great! Garters and fishnets, and there is also a cute striped pair that I need for next winter, too. I love function with a sense of humor!

WHOA!

I LOVE those!

[radicalrye]

I second the no elastic at the bottom statement. Twin Six has figured that out with their women's jerseys.

I have the boob issue as well. I should be wearing M/L but I'm stuck wearing XL or in a men's jersey I wear a L because of my 36c bra size. It's very aggravating shopping when something that would look cute looks trashy because you're cleavage is hanging out.

As far a cycling clothes go I just want something not super girly. I kind of can't praise Twin Six enough because they cater to that stylish, yet not uber girly clothing I like.

The chamois issue is something that cycling companies need to work on as well. There's nothing worse then going on a 50 mile ride and feeling like you're wearing a big sweaty chamois cream filled diaper. I know things seem to be progressing as more and more women are involved with the industry, but it could still use some changes.