Designing Women's Cycling Apparel

[Crankin]

Well, like Eden, I love form fitting jerseys, or at least ones that are not loose and flapping. And I am not a racer, just feel that it's more flattering. But, I abhor the elastic on the bottom. Really. It just makes the jersey ride up my back and stomach. I would have to buy a jersey a size too big to get the elastic to stay down. I weigh l07 and my hips are not huge, either, just bigger than my waist.
I think elastic only works if you have a rather narrow/angular build all the way down.
I like low rise cycling shorts, too. Stuff around my waist just annoys me. But the style has to be higher up in the back, so no crack shows.
I wear all kinds of jerseys: short sleeved, sleeveless, long sleeved, and tanks. Most of the tanks I wear have a shelf bra, which is fine for a small busted person like me, but I would really like it if some of those shelf bras came with some padding, because when you sweat, everything shows through. I don't need the support, but I really like those "Handful" bras I bought here on TE, that have removable pads.
I have a pair of tights that are chamois-less and wear them over my shorts in cold weather. I bought a pair of tights w/ a chamois from someone here on TE; I hate them!
I would like to see more lightweight, thermal/wind proof, full zip "team kit" looking jerseys for regular people to wear in the colder weather. There are very few options here for women. My DH has several and can wear these with a base layer, when I have to wear a jacket, etc.

[shootingstar]

I would have to buy a jersey a size too big to get the elastic to stay down. I weigh l07 and my hips are not huge, either, just bigger than my waist.
I think elastic only works if you have a rather narrow/angular build all the way down

I have a narrow upper body profile and it still doesn't look good to have elastic at jersey hem. The photo link I gave earlier in this thread is an example of a Canari jersey with elastic at bottom. And jersey is not flapping loose but not tight across my whole upper body which I would dislike.

I'm just giving an example myself as a slim woman who doesn't need to have tighter tops. But one who genuinely rides alot everywhere and does ride for fitness also. (Sorry, Eden to sound so annoyed earlier.)

And no elastics around short sleeve arm hems. And I have thin arms. They ride up my arms and seam starts chafing.

Perhaps the lack of pockets for women's cycling clothing might be subconsciously related to real off-bike street/dressier fashion, where many styles don't have pockets, because it might considered less aesthetic.

What we're asking is that on the bike, a bit more functionality for clothing is required to make the clothes work when we're on bike /using our bike around the city.

[skhill]

I just want a jersey that actually fits properly. I have big shoulders but I'm small at the waist and hips; and so my choices are to go up to a medium (or even large) to fit my shoulders, and then have it be huge everywhere else, or go for a small and not be able to move my arms...

I don't expect street clothes to fit my athletic frame well, but why ever shouldn't athletic gear be out there for women who have a muscular, athletic build? (grumble grumble...)

[OakLeaf]

Less chamois! I know there are some manufacturers that still use thinner, narrower chamois on some of their shorts, but they're getting harder and harder to find at LBS. Too-thick chamois are incredibly uncomfortable over long rides, and too-wide chamois are uncomfortable at any distance... tri shorts usually have a chamois that is comfortable for road riding, but the legs are way too short to be comfortable on bike-only days. Also, chamois size better matched to the size of the shorts.

[gnat23]

This is always one of those threads that will conflict itself dozens of times. I feel bad for manufacturers of womens cycling clothing, nobody can agree. I posted this recently on a friend's blog, and I still think it's good stuff:

Realization #1: Mountain Bikers have a much easier time with fashion. MTB jerseys can have modern necklines, 3/4 sleeves, princess seams. The have shorts in plaid, with pockets, embroidery, hip-camouflaging constructions, various inseam lengths. They have *riding skirts*, heck I even own a mountain biking *dress*. I remember the woman leading my MTB tour who wore western style button-up blouses with baggy shorts, or a leopard print jersey with a swirly thigh-length skirt over her spandex; she totally changed my mind about what I could wear on the MTB.

Realization #2: women like to transition seamlessly between active lifestyles. We like prAna and Lululemon and TitleNine and travel dresses at REI. Sexy and sleek by exposing just the right amount of skin and no more. We can choose what skims and what ruffles, what lines to create, because we’ve watched too much “What Not To Wear” or whatever. Going to the gym no longer means boxy heather grey T-shirts and black leggings; we have *options*.

Road cycling? We have a cookie-cutter. Your spandex will be this length, this shape, have these pockets here; the only major creativity seems to have been in what goes on that template. Only recently has more attention has come to functional details like where elastic goes and how tight it is, or where boobs go on a pair of bibshorts, etc.

Which leads me to Rapha again: ok, we get better fabrics, we get some curves thrown in, but I don’t think this will revolutionize women’s road cycling apparel. In addition, I appreciate what companies like Sheila Moon and B. Spoke Tailor have done, but their on-and-off bike stuff seems trapped by a nod to retro tweed-style rides.

I think the solution is FIRST in function: non-tangling, midriff covering, circulation promoting, and maybe a little warmer in the toes while we’re at it.

Then, we need to think outside the S/M/L box. Maybe by cup size? Thigh circumference ranges? Long/short options on torsos and legs? Make things with more adjustability, maybe, with strategic velcro and elastic drawstrings?

Finally, get some real freakin’ fashion involved. Some women wear cashmere twinsets, some wear fishnet shirts, ain’t NO WAY a few patterns are going to appeal to everyone. Lets look at slight cowl necks or longer tux-coat inspired backs. Let’s ruche, gather, drape on occasion. Let’s be inspired by wool and argyle and Betsey Johnson skulls and Chanel jackets. Let’s watch powerful women in the Olympics, from snowboarders to figure skaters, let’s watch episodes of Wonder Woman, let’s idolize librarians and pinups. Let’s be able to ride a century while looking comfortable enough for the bistro afterward. There must be more to life than race or club cut, butterflies or solids, form or function, you know?

Also, I want legwarmers that look like fishnets. But I'm probably the only one.

-- gnat! (Zhush! Needs more Zhush!)

[shootingstar]

It's a great summary, gnat on different cycling clothing style needs for different types/genres of cycling.

As for your last paragraph on more 'fashion', it made me laugh "let's idolize the librarians and pinups". No the real hidden trend, is combining the 2, geeky is sexy.

[katherine]

Realization #1: Mountain Bikers have a much easier time with fashion. MTB jerseys can have modern necklines, 3/4 sleeves, princess seams. The have shorts in plaid, with pockets, embroidery, hip-camouflaging constructions, various inseam lengths. They have *riding skirts*, heck I even own a mountain biking *dress*. I remember the woman leading my MTB tour who wore western style button-up blouses with baggy shorts, or a leopard print jersey with a swirly thigh-length skirt over her spandex; she totally changed my mind about what I could wear on the MTB.

Realization #2: women like to transition seamlessly between active lifestyles. We like prAna and Lululemon and TitleNine and travel dresses at REI. Sexy and sleek by exposing just the right amount of skin and no more. We can choose what skims and what ruffles, what lines to create, because we’ve watched too much “What Not To Wear” or whatever. Going to the gym no longer means boxy heather grey T-shirts and black leggings; we have *options*.

On mtn bikes and skorts:
I mtn bike in a purple skort from terry and love it.
But the problem with mtn bike shorts is very often, in my experience, that they are cut for a more boyish frame and I have hips, if the shorts fit my waist they won't go over my hips and if they fit my hips there's a huge gap at the waist. And I HATE an elastic waist, yuck.
I want as many options with my gear as I have in my regular clothing, and lots of pockets, those on baggy shorts should close with velcro.

[meemsie]

Wow...what a novel idea to find apparel that we love! I have decided it's pretty much impossible to find anything that fits my body. Which leads me down the road of "if there's nothing that fits me, maybe someone who looks like me shouldn't be doing this." Terrible stuff, that!

Anyway, if I could design cycling clothing, I would make a womens jersey that actually has space for breasts! There are thousands of great looking tops for women without them, but for those of us with big ones, there are none, and by the time the top is big enough in the chest, it's huge in the body. I like an ever-so-slightly loose top, as an elastic waist that rides up drives me nuts.

Someone mentioned shorts that don't dig in to the worst part of the thigh...YES! Spanx do just fine, so why can't cycling shorts? I also prefer a smaller chamois since some of them get so wide they do more harm than good.

As for the lady who wants leg warmers that look like fishnets, have you seen the awesome ones made by Epix Gear? www.epixgear.com. They are great! Garters and fishnets, and there is also a cute striped pair that I need for next winter, too. I love function with a sense of humor!