Surly Love

[Cataboo]

I checked to make sure that the front rack that I bought for my surly pacer works today. So, the surly's gonna double for my touring bike until I build up something else at some point.

But the wheels I got for my surly pacer are these ones:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Shimano-Mavic-A7...item58864d405a

XT hubs, 36 spokes, mavic a719 rim.

That seller fairly frequently has them on ebay, and sometimes has them on auction - I waited for auctions & lucked out and got one set for about $90 shipped after I damaged the rims on the first set I bought dropping down into a parallel grate in the road - I think that set was like $160 shipped in auction.

I don't know if the long haul trucker in your size has 26 inch wheels or 700c.

But depending on what they're quoting for handbuilt wheels vs stock wheels, that seller might be an option.

[Catrin]

I don't know if the long haul trucker in your size has 26 inch wheels or 700c.

But depending on what they're quoting for handbuilt wheels vs stock wheels, that seller might be an option.

Thanks for the link - the two small LHT sizes takes 26-inch wheels.

Another option for me might be to just take the complete Surly build and just upgrade bars and saddle for now. That would still be more than the $1004 + tax (spring sale), but rather less than the +$1,600 Thankfully there is time to consider all of my options

Does anyone know the difference between these two cranksets?

Andel, Forged arms, Silver. Aluminum rings, 110mm BCD, 48-36-26t (Surly build)
and
Shimano Sora FC3403 50-39-30t 9-Speed 170mm 2-Piece Crankset (custom build)

Also

Front Derailleur Shimano Tiagra, FD-4403 triple (Surly build)
and
Tiagra FD4503 9spd Trpl 31.8/28.6mm Front Der (custom build)

[OakLeaf]

Can you use 170 mm cranks, or are you going to have to swap them out for shorter ones regardless? What does your fitter say about that?

[Catrin]

Can you use 170 mm cranks, or are you going to have to swap them out for shorter ones regardless? What does your fitter say about that?

The 170mm cranks listed were my fitters suggestion - the 110mm is Surly stock. He has done a body fit on me for my Trek, so he has all of that information, I am long-legged with a short torso.

[KnottedYet]

The 170mm cranks listed were my fitters suggestion - the 110mm is Surly stock. He has done a body fit on me for my Trek, so he has all of that information, I am long-legged with a short torso.

BCD is not the length of the crank arms.

My opinion, which is worth nothing: buy the Complete. Change the saddle and bars (and get the rebate from "selling back" the bars and saddle the bike came with). Ride lots.

My dose of cruel reality, also worth nothing: you don't have much experience. You are only just learning to ride a bike. Trust Surly to provide a good stock set up. Save your money. Don't trust your fitter farther than you can throw him. Ride lots. Customize after.

-Knot: is a fitter, isn't a wrench.

(I'm so serious. What is a upgrade for one person, is a P.O.S. for another. You really need to ride a whole bunch before you know what is an upgrade FOR YOU. Buy stock. Surly is good stuff. It is designed deliberately to be compatible with a gazillion options. You and the bike will grow together. Trust all the Surly mavens on this site. We wouldn't steer you wrong. We believe in these bikes and we ride these bikes.)

[eofelis]

My opinion, which is worth nothing: buy the Complete. Change the saddle and bars (and get the rebate from "selling back" the bars and saddle the bike came with). Ride lots.

My dose of cruel reality, also worth nothing: you don't have much experience. You are only just learning to ride a bike. Trust Surly to provide a good stock set up. Save your money. Don't trust your fitter farther than you can throw him. Ride lots. Customize after.

Trust all the Surly mavens on this site. We wouldn't steer you wrong. We believe in these bikes and we ride these bikes.)

Yeah, what she said.

The wheels and the drive train on the complete will be fine for quite a while.
Ride lots now. Upgrade later.

[moderncyclista]

BCD is not the length of the crank arms.

My opinion, which is worth nothing: buy the Complete. Change the saddle and bars (and get the rebate from "selling back" the bars and saddle the bike came with). Ride lots.

My dose of cruel reality, also worth nothing: you don't have much experience. You are only just learning to ride a bike. Trust Surly to provide a good stock set up. Save your money. Don't trust your fitter farther than you can throw him. Ride lots. Customize after.

-Knot: is a fitter, isn't a wrench.

(I'm so serious. What is a upgrade for one person, is a P.O.S. for another. You really need to ride a whole bunch before you know what is an upgrade FOR YOU. Buy stock. Surly is good stuff. It is designed deliberately to be compatible with a gazillion options. You and the bike will grow together. Trust all the Surly mavens on this site. We wouldn't steer you wrong. We believe in these bikes and we ride these bikes.)

To KnottedYet:
Chica. Thank you for expressing my feelings exactly.

To Caitrin: the stock gearing is better for general riding and commuting. The "special build" gearing is higher with bigger chain rings. Good for speed and training, but not quite as good if your a beginning rider. You'd be happier, in my opinion going with the "stock LHT" build and upgrading bars (shouldn't be too expensive) and saddle (brooks B-17 is a great choice). Be careful with crank arm length as the LHT has a lower bottom bracket (like touring bikes do) you don't want your crank arms to be too long on a smaller frame.

Peace, Love, & Bicycles.

[Catrin]

To KnottedYet:
Chica. Thank you for expressing my feelings exactly.

To Caitrin: the stock gearing is better for general riding and commuting. The "special build" gearing is higher with bigger chain rings. Good for speed and training, but not quite as good if your a beginning rider. You'd be happier, in my opinion going with the "stock LHT" build and upgrading bars (shouldn't be too expensive) and saddle (brooks B-17 is a great choice). Be careful with crank arm length as the LHT has a lower bottom bracket (like touring bikes do) you don't want your crank arms to be too long on a smaller frame.

Peace, Love, & Bicycles.

Good information on the custom build gearing. I had already started leaning in this direction before KnottedYet spoke up, and both of you have only confirmed what I was thinking. I do like the bars he selected. I found one here - though will have to get used to this style and the bar-end shifters

http://www.bikeman.com/HB9776.html

I cannot find any information on the crank arm length on the Andel crankset - even on the Andel website - but that is the stock Surly part so there will be no problem from that direction.

I've sent a request to my fitter/builder for a quote on the Complete blue LHT with upgraded bars/saddle - though I have an idea what that should be

[Cataboo]

If he's putting you on sora cranks & also a tiagra front derailleur... just go with the stock long haul trucker. The custom build doesn't seem to be upgrading your components much (or at all...)

As for crank length - I'd say use the 165 mm cranks. You'll be fine. Shorter cranks are a bit easier to spin, harder to mash with. And they're gentler on your knees.

I'm 5'1 and have changed all my bikes to 165 mm. My knees feel 170 cranks a bit more.

[OakLeaf]

Two different things. 170 on the Sora is the crankarm length. 110 on the Andel is bolt center distance - the mounting size of your chainrings. You didn't specify how long the Andel cranks are.

[Catrin]

Two different things. 170 on the Sora is the crankarm length. 110 on the Andel is bolt center distance - the mounting size of your chainrings. You didn't specify how long the Andel cranks are.

All the info I have on the Andel is from the Surly site, I will see what I can find out... Thanks for the clarification, I appreciate it.

I do appreciate the advice and dose of reality - that is why I brought it here in the first place. I KNOW me when I really want something - which is another reason for the enforced waiting period... It might cost more later to upgrade some of the components, but there is also the point that I would better understand what I am doing. Perhaps by then I would be able to do at least some of the work...

Enforced waiting periods are good

At this point I am strongly leaning to the Complete LHT with upgraded bars/saddle. That leaves more money for accessories and bike clothes

[KnottedYet]

The crank length on the 46 cm Complete LHT is 165mm.

Your fitter says you'd be better off with a 170mm. (which is typical for a woman. We have longer femurs than men, and so need longer crank arms than men of similar size to achieve correct KOPS)

HOWEVER: 5mm is pretty damm small, and well within the realm of cleat positioning for cleated pedals (aka "clipless") or foot positioning for platform pedals, or even shifting the saddle for long-armed riders.

Your fitter is pissing me off. If he can't cope with 5mm difference with a new rider who doesn't yet know her preferences, and within a newbie budget; then I want his job.

ETA: I'm 5'8", with 33 inch inseams. My Surly CC 52cm has 170mm cranks, stock. I'm happiest with 175mm cranks with my cleated bike (Waterford). I have platform pedals on my CC so naturally move my feet to the optimal position for my power output relative to KOPS. No problem. I truly believe you would have no problem with 165mm cranks.