LHT handlebars/brake levers are TOO big

[OakLeaf]

I think you / a mechanic should be able to adjust throw.

It's the spring tension/shifter mechanical advantage, mostly. That's why downshifting isn't an issue. Throw is pretty minor. Since the brifter pivots, the throw gets shorter the closer you move your fingers to the hood, and could be eliminated as an issue. But the leverage is also reduced, requiring you to exert even more force. At the distal end of the lever - where you have the most mechanical advantage, therefore where most people without super-strong fingers and forearms are going to be shifting from - yeah, the throw is pretty long.

As far as adjustment, even if the H screw were set too far out, the throw required to accomplish the shift isn't going to change, only the distance the lever is capable of moving. Your #1 problem in any case would be dropping the chain to the outside, but if you can't muster enough force to even get the chain on the big ring, then it's irrelevant that the FD is capable of moving farther given someone with the strength to push it.

There have been some suggestions here that Dura-Ace systems are easier to shift than Ultegra (including R700) or 105, but some debate as to the reason... since I am innocent of exposure to Dura-Ace componentry I can't comment.

[dianne_1234]

Could the high hand force needed at the lever be something unrelated to the STI lever itself, like sticky energy drink under the BB guide, or some other friction source?

In the past I've lowered the shifting force needed by changing a softer plastic BB guide for a genuine Shimano one that seems to be made of harder plastic.

Here's a pic:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=230380347490

From the description there:
"A worn cable guide can hamper shifting just as much as old cables."

I'm guessing your new LHT doesn't have a worn one but if it's a different brand or type of plastic maybe it's worth trying a Shimano one?

[OakLeaf]

Could the high hand force needed at the lever be something unrelated to the STI lever itself?

Maybe in individual cases, but in general people (myself included) mention this issue with brand new complete bikes, and with brand new shifters/cables/housings professionally installed. (Plus, if that were the case, then the FD would be balky to downshift as well as hard to upshift.) It just takes a lot of force to upshift 105/Ultegra FDs.