Quote Originally Posted by MartianDestiny View Post
Shims won't help if the throw is too much when shifting to the large ring though; they only pull the whole lever assembly closer to the bar. I wonder if the shops can adjust throw because I don't have an issue shifting into my large gear (it is a hair reachy, but it always slides right into gear for me. I *heart* my shop...my bikes always run flawlessly (until I wreck them...)).
Shims are available for all the Shimano brifters (except maybe Dura-Ace?). The actual short-reach STIs are fairly pricey, or at least rarely discounted!

I think you / a mechanic should be able to adjust throw. We spent a lot of time adjusting our front and rear derailleurs in the beginner Park Tools class that I took. First we adjusted the upper and lower limit screws; this keeps each derailleur in a limited space, so that the chain doesn't go off the front or back of the chainrings/cogs. Also, the derailleur is set up very close (less than 1/4") to the edge of the chain or cog -- this reduces the throw for the outside chainring and inside cog (for normal road derailleurs*). Then we tightened the cables to get the least throw between gears possible before skipping gears, and re-checked the limit screws.

Especially if you are in the first month or two of riding, take the bike back in for its tuneup... if you never went back for the tuneup, your cables are probably too slack! (Same with getting new cables put on -- you need them tightened after a hundred miles or so.)

*Shimano makes reverse derailleurs for its mountain and touring (Deore LX) groups. You can use a "reverse" front Deore LX to have the front derailleur default to the largest chainring and pull in... but the maximum ring size is a touring 48, and the maximum chainring tooth difference is 22 teeth. It will accommodate a double or triple chainring (48 with minimum 26, an odd size so effectively 28 for the smallest ring... more typically set up as a compact 48/32; or 44 minimum 22, which is a typical mountain 44/33/22.)

Anyway; back to the original post: putting on new bars and short-reach brakes (any brake brand should work)... sounds like a pretty inexpensive swap. Just make sure the hoods are comfortable... the brake-only left hand on my 9 speed commuter is deeper and pointier than the Shimano brifter on the right, so it is less comfortable. Yay I will be swapping out the levers on another bike to make it a 27 speed -- it is way over 30 lb with commuting crap and 40x25 is just not doing it up the new 8% grade to work, and yay for a more comfortable hood.