LHT handlebars/brake levers are TOO big

[Yelsel]

Shims won't help if the throw is too much when shifting to the large ring though; they only pull the whole lever assembly closer to the bar. I wonder if the shops can adjust throw because I don't have an issue shifting into my large gear (it is a hair reachy, but it always slides right into gear for me. I *heart* my shop...my bikes always run flawlessly (until I wreck them...)).

Shims are available for all the Shimano brifters (except maybe Dura-Ace?). The actual short-reach STIs are fairly pricey, or at least rarely discounted!

I think you / a mechanic should be able to adjust throw. We spent a lot of time adjusting our front and rear derailleurs in the beginner Park Tools class that I took. First we adjusted the upper and lower limit screws; this keeps each derailleur in a limited space, so that the chain doesn't go off the front or back of the chainrings/cogs. Also, the derailleur is set up very close (less than 1/4") to the edge of the chain or cog -- this reduces the throw for the outside chainring and inside cog (for normal road derailleurs*). Then we tightened the cables to get the least throw between gears possible before skipping gears, and re-checked the limit screws.

Especially if you are in the first month or two of riding, take the bike back in for its tuneup... if you never went back for the tuneup, your cables are probably too slack! (Same with getting new cables put on -- you need them tightened after a hundred miles or so.)

*Shimano makes reverse derailleurs for its mountain and touring (Deore LX) groups. You can use a "reverse" front Deore LX to have the front derailleur default to the largest chainring and pull in... but the maximum ring size is a touring 48, and the maximum chainring tooth difference is 22 teeth. It will accommodate a double or triple chainring (48 with minimum 26, an odd size so effectively 28 for the smallest ring... more typically set up as a compact 48/32; or 44 minimum 22, which is a typical mountain 44/33/22.)

Anyway; back to the original post: putting on new bars and short-reach brakes (any brake brand should work)... sounds like a pretty inexpensive swap. Just make sure the hoods are comfortable... the brake-only left hand on my 9 speed commuter is deeper and pointier than the Shimano brifter on the right, so it is less comfortable. Yay I will be swapping out the levers on another bike to make it a 27 speed -- it is way over 30 lb with commuting crap and 40x25 is just not doing it up the new 8% grade to work, and yay for a more comfortable hood.

[ginny]

Yelsel,
Thanks! I actually have adjusted the limit screws and I think I have fixed the problem... I have shifted the chain off so many times when going fast (because, that's when you shift into the big chain ring), that now I'm a tad hesitant to make that shift...
I also totally hear you about a too heavy commuter...

So, if anyone is interested in a 46cm LHT (2008 model in the grey-blue) with pink planet bike fenders, pink water bottle cage, black brooks saddle... um.. PM me. (excellent sales pitch for the bike, right?) I am beginning to think I should just tour on my Bianchi like I did last summer, and buy a single speed or something light for my around town bike. I think I'm just too ...um, slight (?) for the beefiness of this bike. I have been coming to this conclusion, and it's a bummer, but the wrist thing seems to have brought it home for me... oh, also I have studded tires for the 26" wheels - if anyone is interested, um, we can discuss the studded tires too...

[Yelsel]

If you're willing to let the studded tires go separately, I'd love to get them. Might need to wait until the next payday though -- I've already spent my allotment of "getting ready for winter commuting" dough for these two weeks. :P

[KnottedYet]

What a heartbreaker, selling a bike because of a brake lever!

I know someone who rides 42 and 46 LHT (and likes the blue color), I'll give her a shout. Have you settled on an asking price?

[OakLeaf]

I think you / a mechanic should be able to adjust throw.

It's the spring tension/shifter mechanical advantage, mostly. That's why downshifting isn't an issue. Throw is pretty minor. Since the brifter pivots, the throw gets shorter the closer you move your fingers to the hood, and could be eliminated as an issue. But the leverage is also reduced, requiring you to exert even more force. At the distal end of the lever - where you have the most mechanical advantage, therefore where most people without super-strong fingers and forearms are going to be shifting from - yeah, the throw is pretty long.

As far as adjustment, even if the H screw were set too far out, the throw required to accomplish the shift isn't going to change, only the distance the lever is capable of moving. Your #1 problem in any case would be dropping the chain to the outside, but if you can't muster enough force to even get the chain on the big ring, then it's irrelevant that the FD is capable of moving farther given someone with the strength to push it.

There have been some suggestions here that Dura-Ace systems are easier to shift than Ultegra (including R700) or 105, but some debate as to the reason... since I am innocent of exposure to Dura-Ace componentry I can't comment.

[dianne_1234]

Could the high hand force needed at the lever be something unrelated to the STI lever itself, like sticky energy drink under the BB guide, or some other friction source?

In the past I've lowered the shifting force needed by changing a softer plastic BB guide for a genuine Shimano one that seems to be made of harder plastic.

Here's a pic:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=230380347490

From the description there:
"A worn cable guide can hamper shifting just as much as old cables."

I'm guessing your new LHT doesn't have a worn one but if it's a different brand or type of plastic maybe it's worth trying a Shimano one?

[OakLeaf]

Could the high hand force needed at the lever be something unrelated to the STI lever itself?

Maybe in individual cases, but in general people (myself included) mention this issue with brand new complete bikes, and with brand new shifters/cables/housings professionally installed. (Plus, if that were the case, then the FD would be balky to downshift as well as hard to upshift.) It just takes a lot of force to upshift 105/Ultegra FDs.