Anyone ever backpacked in the Grand Canyon?

[Tri Girl]

Too cool!!! Oh, and it' not too much info, PW- do you have more???

We actually have 3 plans to submit when we apply for our backcountry permit: rim to rim, South Kaibab to river then back up to Indian Garden to top, and some form of the Tonto trail. I want to provide as many options as possible so that our odds of getting a permit are greater. I'm SO excited!

Mmm... tadpole water. Sounds yummy! I'm actually reading (right now) Over the Edge: Death in the Grand Canyon and read about a couple that passed up a puddle with tadpoles in it (proved to be fatal for them).

I've heard that North Rim is so much prettier, but it's so hard to get to. Would you recommend hiking down to the river and back from the North Rim? I know it's a LOT less traveled, and we can camp at Cottonwood Camp halfway back up. It's a lot further down (and back up) from the North Rim, but if you think it's worth it then we'll totally consider it. I'm all about avoiding the crowds and seeing a different side of the canyon (we were all South Rim last time).

Please, tell me more!!!!!! Thanks!

[Pedal Wench]

Too cool!!! Oh, and it' not too much info, PW- do you have more???

Please, tell me more!!!!!! Thanks!

You want more? I got more!!!

DO read all of Over the Edge. It's a cautionary tale, and we've seen people making many of the same mistakes. I can't remember if it's in the book, but we followed the path of the marathon runner who died going from Grandview to S. Kaibab shortly after she died, and it drove home how treacherous it really is - especially off the main trails. For your first time (or two) I would recommend sticking to the main "corridor" trails. Stopping at Cottonwood is a good idea. For us (kinda quiet, loner-types) we prefer the laidback North Rim - a rim-to-rim lets you see both sides. Oddly, we find it better to stop at Cottonwood on the way down. On the way up, we usually hit it so early that it's just easier to hike all the way up. Stopping there on the way down lets you get an early start the next morning heading into The Box, which can get brutally hot.

You're smart to go down S. Kaibab and up B.A. You could stop at Indian Garden, then maybe do one night out on the Tonto. It would still be doable to then hike back to the rim in one day.

You had asked about training --- another cautionary tale... as fit cyclists, you would think it would have been no problem. It seems the more we cycled before the trip, the tighter our calves were after we hiked - literally hobbling around for days after our last rim2rim2rim because our calves were trashed. So, start stretching NOW. I mean it, step away from the laptop and stretch! I usually put on a weighted backpack and hit both the stairs in my house and my treadmill, designed for hikers with a 25% grade. And, don't forget the downhills. Be careful training for them - it's tough on knees, but work up slowly, especially since no matter how light you pack, you must carry all the water you'll need on trails like S.Kaibab.

My BF was a college professor, so we understand the scheduling problems - but, the North Rim doesn't open until May. It will be HOT in the inner gorge, but drink, wear hats, rest in the shade (yeah, hiked it enough that I could tell you where all the shade is!) and put your feet up for a few minutes every time you stop.

[Pedal Wench]

Oh -- one more tip. Put in as many variations for your trip on the permit as you can. Forwards, backwards, moved one day forward, one day back - every option that you can.

[divingbiker]

Haven't hiked it (with a backpack and all) but I did climb out from Bright Angel Campground to the south rim starting at noon, and man, was it hot! (I rafted halfway down through the canyon, then hiked out, but the mules carried my gear.) A shower never felt so good.

But I did want to second Pedal Wench's recommendation of spending some time at the North Rim. Sooooo much better than the South Rim. South is like a city, North is like the country. Hotels vs. cottages. Frantic vs. laid back. Love love love it there.

[Tri Girl]

Thanks, PW, for all your wisdom!!! My DH was appalled that I was reading the "death" book, but I'm looking at it as a way to read what NOT to do and to gain some knowledge on what to do right so I don't wind up in a book like that one day. I'm off to go stretch, now.
About the permit- can we just say: we want to do a 5 day, 4 night trip any time within this two week period- and they can tell us the dates that are open- or do we have to be specific with dates? I want to put as many options as humanly possible because I WANT to do this trip!!!

Divingbiker- thanks for the tip! I think we're for sure going to visit the North Rim this time- it just seems so out of the way and like a different crowd might be there. Plus, I've heard there are some great mtn bike trails on the N. Rim and we'd like to check those out after we've done our hike.

[Pedal Wench]

I'm pretty sure you have to be specific with the dates on the permit, but it can't hurt to add that as a note. We haven't had to apply for one since 2006, and it might have changed. Our last hike in 2007 was a luxury trip. The day those dates opened up to book Phantom Ranch, we called and while my BF was on the phone, the computers all went down - he was able to book whatever he wanted and everyone else was locked out. So, we did a r2r2r staying at the cabins down at Phantom Ranch. Felt like rockstars.

[Tri Girl]

So, we did a r2r2r staying at the cabins down at Phantom Ranch. Felt like rockstars.

VERY cool!!!
I just spent 2 hours at the hiking/outdoor store that I trust the most trying on packs. HOLY MOLY!!! They are HUGE and really expensive. Of course, the one that fit me the best was the cadillac of packs (Osprey $250). I had no idea...
I guess I'll be saving up. There's two things that I won't compromise on: my hiking boots and my pack. Being chintzy on either one could make a good trip turn bad in a hurry. C'mon Christmas bonus...