Front derailleurs specifically designed to work with compact cranks are usually put into use to help prevent dropping the chain to the inside of the small ring due to the big differential between c-ring sizes...not the issue you are having. I would recommend checking the angle of the cage over the big chainring, and make sure it is exactly parallel, also that the FD sits only about 1mm above the chainring teeth (i.e., as close as possible).
I run an FSA compact crank with Ultegra FD and have zero problems.
Margo, thanks for the insight.
Because the curve of the FD doesn't match the curve of the 50T ring the spacing between FD and crank varies at all points. I know I can't lower it any more or the chain can't get onto the big ring.
With a braze-on FD how much adjustment do I have for parallel? Should I give this another try on my own or drop it off at the LBS and hope they can work some magic? Why did it work perfectly last week but fail me yesterday?
I'd rather be swimming...biking...running...and eating cheesecake...
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2008 Cervelo P2C Tri bike
2011 Trek Madone 5.5/Cobb V-Flow Max
2007 Jamis Coda/Terry Liberator
2011 Trek Mamba 29er
You should have some. Often the derailleur and the braze on fall in love in a certain position, but if you hold the derailleur firmly in the alternative, more ideal position, it should move a bit for you. Definitely try it again...what have you got to lose? Derailleur adjustment stuff tends to be finicky more often than not, and so often requires patience and at least a few tries til you find the sweet spot. Good luck.With a braze-on FD how much adjustment do I have for parallel?
I had the bike in my car so I could take it by the LBS; the alignment looks good to me.
Anyway, I swung over to the LBS after work. The wonderful mechanics there took a look at it right away, made some adjustments on the spot, and returned the bike to me. Hopefully this will work.
When I wheeled the bike into the store one of the staff said "Wow, what is that? I've never seen a bike like that!" This really made me smile![]()
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I'd rather be swimming...biking...running...and eating cheesecake...
--===--
2008 Cervelo P2C Tri bike
2011 Trek Madone 5.5/Cobb V-Flow Max
2007 Jamis Coda/Terry Liberator
2011 Trek Mamba 29er
Yes, the tri bike. I took it to City Bikes since they are the most convenient for me.
I'd rather be swimming...biking...running...and eating cheesecake...
--===--
2008 Cervelo P2C Tri bike
2011 Trek Madone 5.5/Cobb V-Flow Max
2007 Jamis Coda/Terry Liberator
2011 Trek Mamba 29er
Having just converted a triple to a compact crank on one of my 5 bikes, I have learned a lot.
I needed a 165 mm 9-speed crank for my short legs. The only model available was the Shimano Sora. I liked it -- much lighter than the Truvative triple.
FSA 9-speed compact cranks only come in 170mm lengths which would cause me too much toe overlap with the front wheel.
The compact crank works with a double front derailleur and triple rear derailleur. I replaced a Shimano Tiagra triple front derailleur with a Shimano 105 double front derailleur.
The compact crank must mate with its bottom bracket. I replaced a generic Truvativ triple bottom bracket with a Shimano hollowtech.
The Shimano 105 triple rear derailleur works perfectly!
Depending upon the other components -- 10 speed or 9-speed rear cassettes and shifters, the compact crank doesn't need Ultegra level, especially if the rest of the compenents in the drive train are less than Ultegra-level in quality.
Ann C. Martha achristinemartha@yahoo.com
Why are you using a long cage rear derailleur?
maybe 'cause she had it from the triple that she was converting to a double?