Fear of wrenching...

[Tuckervill]

I started by helping my son rebuild an old steel bike. I rebuilt my tourer. But I'm like Pardes, and now when there is something I really want changed that may take more of my time than I'm willing to give, I take it to the shop.

That's why my tourer has barcons and new brake levers interruptors and Koolstop brake pads. It would have taken me too long! Only took a week at the shop.

Karen

[Irulan]

it's all in what floats your boat, ya know? I like it, it makes me happy. I like not paying someone to do it. But I refuse to do any car stuff. Whatever.

My whole thing is that it's nothing to be afraid of, why not give it a try? You might like it, and then again you might not.

[Boise Birder]

and are not afraid to cut that cable, what's next??? I like getting dirty and turning wrenches, but would feel better if I had a guide.

what books or websites would you suggest for those who want to try it out and see if it is for them?

[fidlfreek]

Hey Boise Birder -
I have found these to be great starting points!

http://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp
www.sheldonbrown.com

So, ladies I need a little help to get me past the point where these great sites left off....I am intrepidly attempting a tiny adjustment on my front derailleur and am stuck on a small point. After a recent cleaning I noticed that a little nasty sound on downhills was caused by my chain rubbing in the big ring while in the the outermost gears....

So I know I just need to allow the cage to move slightly farther out from the bike frame when its in the big chainring. (I am using a 3 chainring Shimano 105 on a new Bianchi road bike). From the Park Tool website and the SheldonBrown website I know I need to tighten my H screw like 1/8th of a turn. Tiny. However, the screws aren't marked L and H and I'm way way too scared to test it like the site suggests... And google isn't finding me a handy diagram...

Can someone just tell me which screw is the H? Is there anything else I need to do after I tighten the screw that tiny bit? Am I stupid to try this?

Thanks guys for any suggestions you have!

[jobob]

and are not afraid to cut that cable, what's next??? I like getting dirty and turning wrenches, but would feel better if I had a guide.

what books or websites would you suggest for those who want to try it out and see if it is for them?

Irulan already pointed out Zinn & the Art of Bicycle Maintenance in her original post. There's a version for mountain bikes & one for road bikes.

[kfergos]

Thank you for this post! I've been wanting to do maintenance on my bikes for a while -- saves money and, in my opinion, is therapeutic and rewarding -- but I've been too chicken to really get in there and do it.

My goal is to learn enough to learn enough to fix my battered winter mtb (needs everything, including headset and bottom bracket, replaced) and convert her to an Xtracycle. I hope to do this by spring of 2009. Where to start??

[Irulan]

Thank you for this post! I've been wanting to do maintenance on my bikes for a while -- saves money and, in my opinion, is therapeutic and rewarding -- but I've been too chicken to really get in there and do it.

My goal is to learn enough to learn enough to fix my battered winter mtb (needs everything, including headset and bottom bracket, replaced) and convert her to an Xtracycle. I hope to do this by spring of 2009. Where to start??

I'd start with brake cables, housing and pads, and then same for deraillers. Then, bottom bracket, headset last. There are parts of the headset process that usually require a stop at LBS for them to use their headset press on a thingy in there.

[Irulan]

So I know I just need to allow the cage to move slightly farther out from the bike frame when its in the big chainring. (I am using a 3 chainring Shimano 105 on a new Bianchi road bike). From the Park Tool website and the SheldonBrown website I know I need to tighten my H screw like 1/8th of a turn. Tiny. However, the screws aren't marked L and H and I'm way way too scared to test it like the site suggests... And google isn't finding me a handy diagram...

According to Zinn, and for a mtb derailleur (lets' assume it's the same) he says that MOST front ds have the low limit screw closer to the frame. Sometimes they are labeled L and H too.

Option B is to take some warm fresh baked cookies down to the LBS with your bike and ask nicely "would you guys please show me how to do this?". Works great for me.

[OakLeaf]

I'm way way too scared to test it like the site suggests...

You'll be fine. Take a deep breath. Get a bright shop light and, if you need it, reading glasses or magnifying lenses. Shift onto the big ring (and if your shifters have a trim click, do that too). Now you're up against the H screw. If you can see the end of the screw contacting the stop, you're done (except for adjusting it to where you want it).

If the ends of the screws aren't where you can see them, observe the position of the slot or the Phillips star on one of them. Turn it out exactly one-half turn and see whether your derailleur moves. If the derailleur doesn't move, that's your L screw, so turn it back to where it was and try the other one.

It's a good practice when making adjustments that you're not sure of the effect, and/or when making adjustments that have to be the same in more than one place (motorcycle chain adjustments is what immediately springs to mind) to move by increments of 1/4 or 1/2 turn (or 1/3 turn, if you're turning hex nuts). Then you can go back exactly where you were before, if the adjustment doesn't work, and also you know you're doing the same thing on both sides.


PS my derailleur went back on fine... and it shifts fine on the stand... taking it out for a shakedown ride this afternoon, my first ride in TEXAS!


ETA: I read your post too quickly and didn't notice it was a late model Shimano derailleur. Shimano's website has technical data for most of their parts. The EV documents are parts fiches, the SI documents deal with installation and adjustment. According to that, the top adjustment screw is the one farther from the frame; with the chain on the big ring and small freewheel cog, there should be 0-0.5mm clearance between the chain and the outer plate of the cage.