Convert road bike to cross?

[celerystalksme]

Can you convert your roadie for cross?

Probably not. Most roadbikes simply do not have the clearance for cross tires. And you don't have canti bosses for canti brakes...a must for muddy conditions. BUT...I have heard of people successfully converting a roadie for cross...really depends on your frames ability to take larger tires.

Can you convert a Surly Crosscheck for track?

Absolutely. You can convert almost any bike into a track, fixie, or singlespeed...whatever your desire. The less vertical the rear dropout, the easier. Otherwise you'll need fashion some sort of chain tensioning pulley.

Good luck!!!!!!!!!!!

[VeloVT]

I'm not sure a Cross Check would be my first choice if I had ambitions to race... I know there are lots of TE'ers who love their Cross Checks, but aren't they a tad on the heavy/clunky side for racing? Also, I know bar-cons are more durable, but STI's are so much easier to use if you're working really hard... I think there are a few other bikes out there in the $1000 neighborhood which you might be happier with.

By the way, don't listen to me because I've never raced cross in my life.

Edit: Drat, most of the bikes I was thinking of are now more like $1500. Everything is getting more expensive. The lowest end Redline Conquest is around $1000, not sure how heavy but it is alu instead of steel.

[Blueberry]

I'm not sure a Cross Check would be my first choice if I had ambitions to race... I know there are lots of TE'ers who love their Cross Checks, but aren't they a tad on the heavy/clunky side for racing? Also, I know bar-cons are more durable, but STI's are so much easier to use if you're working really hard... I think there are a few other bikes out there in the $1000 neighborhood which you might be happier with.

I do love mine. Circumstances made it a good bike for me to buy (right build, right size, right time. However, I have NO ambitions to race (and don't expect to). Heavy yes, clunky - not sure what you mean, but probably no. You certainly could race it -- depending on the level, you might be able to be competitive on it. But it's heavy. A built up cross check is in the 26 lb range (maybe less with a different saddle - I have a Brooks - but not that light). With a 1x9 and a different saddle - maybe 24ish. With a different fork - 22? (I'm guessing). I know you can lighten it considerably if you put a carbon fork on it - my favorite mechanic (who is very sadly - but great for him - moving to Arizona this week weighed his fork and said it's a significant portion of the weight). And I don't think I'd race on bar ends - you can't shift and be in the position to brake at the same time. Not a problem for daily riding (where I can cover the other brake), but not safe for being on someone's wheel IMO.

Starting from scratch, I'd probably build up a Double Cross (Soma) - not sure how much it would be, though. The tubing is a couple of steps up from Surly. Don't get me wrong - I *love* my bike, and it does everything I want it to do, does it in style, and keeps me comfy. But racing (and truthfully riding cross) isn't one of those things.

CA

Edited to Add:

From Surly's site:

56cm = 4.88 lbs (2.2 kg)
Fork - uncut = 2.19 lbs (.99 kg)

From Soma's site:
4.2 lbs (54cm)

Can't find a weight on the Soma fork.

[Eden]

Some people use bar ends to race cross because they are less expensive and less likely to sustain damage in a crash (and you will crash in cross....). On the other hand you might sustain more damage if you hit a pointy bar end shifter with your thigh in a crash.

[Trek420]

On the other hand you might sustain more damage if you hit a pointy bar end shifter with your thigh in a crash.

Sounds like the voice of experience?

[Eden]

Sounds like the voice of experience?

Nah - I've only had down tube and STI equipped bikes, but I've seen what just hitting the regular end of the bar (and what hitting a handlebar that the end has fallen out of - not me thankfully - NEVER ride with out plugs in place!) can do to a person's leg... my imagination thinks about what something sticking out even further and possibly being pointy might do. At least the pointy end of the shifter is mobile, so the possibility of really skewering yourself would probably be remote??

[SadieKate]

... my imagination thinks about what something sticking out even further and possibly being pointy might do. At least the pointy end of the shifter is mobile, so the possibility of really skewering yourself would probably be remote??

But it's not really that pointy and it has a built in hinge. Probably absorb some impact that a rigid bar doesn't. Rremember that things which are clamped on your bike tend to move in a crash and while other things break.

[bboston88]

I need to get crashes out of the way (on dirt preferably) and just be done with it! What size tires do you typically run on your cyclocross bikes?

Realistically I'd rent a track bike. I know our velodrome rents them, they aren't too expensive to buy and I'm supposed to be having baby #2 sometime this winter anyway...

[spokewench]

I need to get crashes out of the way (on dirt preferably) and just be done with it! What size tires do you typically run on your cyclocross bikes?

Realistically I'd rent a track bike. I know our velodrome rents them, they aren't too expensive to buy and I'm supposed to be having baby #2 sometime this winter anyway...

I usually ride 700 x 30 or 700 x 32; I think there are 28s and some 34s too. So, this post is confusing to me. First off, yes, falling on dirt is better than falling on pavement, but just because you fall on dirt, does not get it out of the way. Don't care how long you have been riding, and especially if you are going to race, you are going to fall sometimes

So, B Boston, how do you do this "I'm supposed to be having baby #2 this winter", and race both cyclocross and track? You do know you have to train to race, right? So, if you are pregnant, you should not get your heart rate as high as you would need to race and/or train to race. Or, are you just sort of pregnant? Or, wishing to be pregnant?

[bboston88]

I usually ride 700 x 30 or 700 x 32; I think there are 28s and some 34s too. So, this post is confusing to me. First off, yes, falling on dirt is better than falling on pavement, but just because you fall on dirt, does not get it out of the way. Don't care how long you have been riding, and especially if you are going to race, you are going to fall sometimes

So, B Boston, how do you do this "I'm supposed to be having baby #2 this winter", and race both cyclocross and track? You do know you have to train to race, right? So, if you are pregnant, you should not get your heart rate as high as you would need to race and/or train to race. Or, are you just sort of pregnant? Or, wishing to be pregnant?

Sorry, I guess, for any confusion. My point was that I haven't crashed yet and given the choice between road and dirt, I'd rather crash on dirt. Not saying that wouldn't hurt or cause injury. That's my point in "getting it out of the way," I'm a crash virgin. I need to do the deed. So, that's that.

Second, thanks for the concern but I'm well aware of pregnancy precautions as I've already had a child (this would be #2). I should have said I'm probably going to be getting pregnant in winter/spring, not delivering! I'm also very well aware of needing to train to race, I'm already doing that and have done some road racing. Just for clarification in case anyone cares, I'm planning to train/ride/race up until I get pregnant. At that time I'll just ride in my recommended HR range...

[Eden]

Absolutely. You can convert almost any bike into a track, fixie, or singlespeed...whatever your desire. The less vertical the rear dropout, the easier. Otherwise you'll need fashion some sort of chain tensioning pulley.

Perhaps, but you would have to be careful to confirm that it would be allowable for racing on the track.... they can be pretty strict about the equipment out there and its very much about safety. Anything that might cause a chain to slip or come off is very dangerous (thus no quick release wheels, etc.) I doubt any type of chain tensioner would be allowable period, though there is a special fixed speed hub ($160) that is supposed to work with non-vertical dropouts that might be OK - but its expensive... that $160 is just for the hub, you still have to get a wheel built around it. By the time you get the wheel built you might be able to find a whole used track bike for around the same price... ($300-$400 is typical)

Also everything (brakes, controllers, cables, derailleurs, 2nd chainring) would have to be stripped off the bike for the track season, so you'd need to redo all of it when cross comes back around. I suppose if you are careful you could reuse the cables and housings, but its very hard to do that.

I think it would probably be more economical in the end to look for 2 used bikes or rent at the track. Especially if you factor in the time and hassle of converting the bike twice a year. Some tracks (like ours out here) really want more women to participate, so rental bikes are free to them.