Is it time for a new bike?

[silver]

The 2.3 trek is 50/34 with a 11-25 cassette.

I'm riding a 53/39 with either a 11-25 cassette (on my Bontrager race wheels) and a 12-27 cassette on the American Classic wheels. (I'll likely flip flop the cassettes for tri racing season). This takes me over all the hills that I do around here. Except the 25% (is that what it was) alley that Mr. likes to do. I'm too afraid to try.

[Veronica]

You can look up the gear ratios on Sheldon Brown's site to see how big of a jump it would be. Once you figure out what the easiest ratio on the new bike will be, make Mr. ride up that 25% using that gear ratio equivalent on his current bike. That way you can see if a compact double with that gearing will work for you, where you ride.

I did this when I bought my new bike and got a compact double on it. My compact double lowest gear is about 10% taller than the lowest gear I have on my triple. Once I ordered the new bike, I just stopped using that lowest gear. I missed it for awhile, still do sometimes.

V.

[silver]

Oh, that's good V. Good way to go about it. So using that, he would only have the equivalent of 3rd gear.

[Triskeliongirl]

I have a compact double (50/34) with an 11/34 in back. If that is what Mr. Silver wants, he should negotiate with the bike shop. Usually they will make swaps to get you the gearing you want. If he wants a mountain cog set in back though, he will want a 9 and not 10 speed druve chain (can get a 12/27 in 10 though). He will have to be sure they choose the apprpriate rear derailleur though. For the 12/27 he will need a medium cage and for the 11/34 he will need a long. Mine has a long so I can use an 11/34 but it also works fine with my 12/27. The bike may only come stock with a short if it comes with a tight rear casette. But, getting back to whether Mr. S. needs a new bike. Given that his current bike is aluminum, is the new bike really that much lighter? Aluminum is light, just harsh to some people. Rather than going from an entry level to mid level bike, why not go to a high end when the time is right (full carbon w ultegra/durace). The higher you go in component group, you gain both lightness and performance (smoother shifting, etc.). I think 170 lb is fine for full carbon. Titanium is something else to consider, light and strong, and lasts forever and doesn't rust. A custom is something to consider if stock geometries don't work well.

[Triskeliongirl]

Another idea is to get a bike that can do something your current bike can't, like travel. I have an s/s coupled bike that fits in an airline legal suitcase. Had a bike friday before that. I remember not being able to take bikes was an issue on your last vacation.

[Mr. Bloom]

I wonder why someone who loves 20% grades would want a double instead of a triple.

mimi...you guessed my first thought

Oh, that's good V. Good way to go about it. So using that, he would only have the equivalent of 3rd gear.

Well, last week at the Hilly, I didn't walk at all, but I required granny gear to get up the steepest grades. I'm not sure that if I could only get to the equivalent of 3rd, that I couldn't take the hill

A lighter bike only really matters on a climb.

So, does this offset the loss of granny & second?

Rather than going from an entry level to mid level bike, why not go to a high end when the time is right (full carbon w ultegra/durace).

I'm thinking that this approach might make me a stronger rider...Of course, that would have me seeking a serious bike at a time that the first year's college tuition comes due

[Veronica]

So, does this offset the loss of granny & second?

Only you can really answer that question. Seriously, I'd try riding without those gears and see how you feel. If you like the bike but want/need different gearing you can always get the shop to swap it out.

But really, what's wrong with your current bike? I can see wanting to have two bikes for lots of reasons. But if you're going to trade it in your old one, why spend the money on a new one? I just want you to think about what you're hoping to get out of a new bike.

V.

[Mr. Bloom]

Thanks V (and everyone else as well).

I'm not going to even consider acting on this until March...why buy as winter approaches????

I need to focus on building my core body strength this winter, losing more weight, and researching this potential purchase.

[onimity]

I climb a lot on a compact double and find that it is fine, but it took me a while to get strong enough to tackle steep hills without super-low gearing. I agree with the advice to ride your current bike accordingly. It may be heavier, but that will make you stronger, so you'll just be faster when you get the new bike...

If it were my decision, I'd wait. I know, not too exciting, but if you feel that you can afford it now (as opposed to when tuition is due), maybe set aside the money now and wait until you find a bike that is going to last you a long time. If you're going to upgrade you might as well do it right, rather than getting a bike with a frame/components that you are going to want to upgrade again in a year or two (I think you said something about wanting to race in a year or two, right?). Also keep in mind that you can get a great deal on previous years bikes, especially as they sit around longer. I saved $700 on my bike that way, and it brought full carbon/ultegra into my aluminum/105 budget.

The other benefit to waiting is that you can take a lot of time test riding so you know *exactly* what you want.

Either way, enjoy the bike shopping!

Anne

[Melalvai]

I'm not going to even consider acting on this until March...why buy as winter approaches????

Get snow chains at the same time?

[Triskeliongirl]

Don't underestimate the price break on end of the year sales as they make rom for the 2008s. BUT, try to first define what you expect this new bike to do that is different from the one you have. Do you know what your current bike weighs? Does it shift smoothly? Does it fit you well? I'm just not sure you are gonna get the performance boost you think from moving from an entry level to mid level bike, especially given that your entry level bike is aluminum and therefore likely to be plenty light (unless it is uncomfortably harsh, but if that is the case then consider a less harsh frame material).

[Mr. Bloom]

These are good points to ponder. Current bike:

• Fit = Great!
• Weight = about 21lbs
• Price = they don't tend to carry my short size in stock...when I buy, I'm one to want the lastest...not last yr's model
• Shifting = not great, but good...but I love my shifters that have gear indicators on them...don't like looking down to remember my gears!

I like the idea of getting better wheels and cutting my rolling resistance by about 10% and achieving half the weight reduction of going to a new bike...for a lot less $

[wannaduacentury]

Thanks V (and everyone else as well).

I'm not going to even consider acting on this until March...why buy as winter approaches????

I need to focus on building my core body strength this winter, losing more weight, and researching this potential purchase.

Good idea Mr. Silver. My 2 cents worth is to upgrade what you have(the Lemond) which fits you well, then really do your homework on what kind of newer bike you'd like. Then you won't feel rushed into a decision. Bike lust runs rampant at TE ,it's hard to escape for all of us. It's just too much fun Jenn

[Veronica]

T[*]Shifting = not great, but good...but I love my shifters that have gear indicators on them...don't like looking down to remember my gears![/LIST]

That's one reason I love bar end shifters. I can tell about what gear I'm in from it's placement. I don't need to know exactly where it is, just whether or not I can go up or down.

V.

[Mr. Bloom]

That's one reason I love bar end shifters. I can tell about what gear I'm in from it's placement. I don't need to know exactly where it is, just whether or not I can go up or down.

V.

Bar End Shifters? Is this one of those numbered dials?