Noisy brakes & rough front rim

[silver]

The issue that I'm referring to on my 1000 is not just "squeaky" brakes. I agree that toe-in does correct "squeaky" brakes.

But the issue here is a scraping noise that the brakes make. When we examine the brake pads, there will be slivers of metal in the brake pads.

The Kool-Stop salmon pads were not recommended to correct "squeaky" brakes but to help eliminate the abrasion that was creating the slivers on this low end rim. The thought was that the stock pads were too hard for this low end rim.

does that make sense? two different issues

[BleeckerSt_Girl]

The issue that I'm referring to on my 1000 is not just "squeaky" brakes. I agree that toe-in does correct "squeaky" brakes.

But the issue here is a scraping noise that the brakes make. When we examine the brake pads, there will be slivers of metal in the brake pads.

The Kool-Stop salmon pads were not recommended to correct "squeaky" brakes but to help eliminate the abrasion that was creating the slivers on this low end rim. The thought was that the stock pads were too hard for this low end rim.

does that make sense? two different issues

Silver,
I see from your BikeJournal stats that you ride a LOT of miles. Maybe you deserve a rim upgrade?

[RolliePollie]

Silver - I'm having the same sound...not squealing but more like a grating sound. It's really not a nice sound. And not nice knowing that I'm wearing down my rims every time I brake! Luckily, living in a rural area, I don't have intersections and such where I have to come to a complete stop very often. I do have hills though...but usually the downhills are followed by uphills so I don't want to brake and lose my momentum.

I'll look at my brake pads tomorrow to see if they're toeing in or out. That concept makes so much sense! For a new rider like me who is only averaging about 75 miles a week right now, a little extra brake pad maintenance is ok. I think I can put up with this and stay safe through this season. Sounds like maybe upgrading the wheels and brake pads would be a good idea for next season.

[BleeckerSt_Girl]

For a new rider like me who is only averaging about 75 miles a week right now...

Hey whaddya talkin'?!! 75 miles a week is not an "only"!!

[RolliePollie]

Hey whaddya talkin'?!! 75 miles a week is not an "only"!!

I want to do closer to 100 a week! But unfortunately, that darned job of mine makes it hard to ride as often as I'd like. And also unfortuntately, the 75 is usually one flat 35-40 mile ride and two 18-20 mile rides. I'd much rather be doing 5-6 days of shorter rides. Uh oh, am I doing that thread drift thing?

Back to the brakes...why the heck did Trek put this combination of rims and pads together if they don't get along well? I am learning a lot about how much money you can easily spend upgrading even an entry level bike. But it's worth it so I'm really not complaining. I'll just have to add "really good wheels" to my wish list for a new bike that I'll be purchasing SOMEDAY!!! In the meantime, I'll become an expert at removing those tiny shards of metal. And I'll go look for the Kool Stop pads too.

[RolliePollie]

I bought some Kool Stop pads today...got the black ones for dry conditions because it won't be wet around here again until October or November. Plus that's all they had at REI

Are these pads something I can put on the bike myself or do I need to take it to the LBS? I'm kind of afraid I'll do it wrong and I don't want to end up with brakes that don't work. If it's easy and relatively fool-proof, I'll do it. As usual, here I am, a big newbie looking for more advice!

[DebW]

Are these pads something I can put on the bike myself or do I need to take it to the LBS? I'm kind of afraid I'll do it wrong and I don't want to end up with brakes that don't work. If it's easy and relatively fool-proof, I'll do it. As usual, here I am, a big newbie looking for more advice!

Pretty easy and almost foolproof. I'll assume you have standard road brakes rather than cantilevers or V-brakes (those pads attach a bit differently). The pads should attach to the brake caliper arms with a single allen bolt. If so, loosen the allen bolt on your current pads. Hold the pad so it won't turn while you loosen. If the pad is close to the rim, you'll need to make room to remove it either by opening the brake's quick release or removing the wheel. After you've removed one of the old pads, putting in the new ones should be obvious. KoolStop pads are designed to have the wedge shapes on the pad pointing backwards, so make sure you know which end to point forwards (it may be inscribed on the side of the pad or on the package). Position the new pad so that it contacts solidly against the full width of the rim and hits the rim flat or slightly toe-in (ie. front end first) if that is possible. Position the pad in the caliper, tighten it lightly, then squeeze the brake to see where it hits the rim. Reposition if necessary. When you're happy with the pad position, tighten it down very tightly. Often the pad will want to turn as you tighten, so hold it to counteract that turning force.

If your old pads were very worn and the brakes had been recently adjusted, you may find these pads too close to the rim or possibly even rubbing it. If so, you'll need to loosen the cable anchor bolt to readjust the pad spacing. If you loosen the cable, be sure to tighten the anchor bold very tightly.

[silver]

Silver,
I see from your BikeJournal stats that you ride a LOT of miles. Maybe you deserve a rim upgrade?

Lisa, this is my old bike that I'm referring to. the one that I wrecked. most of my miles are on my lovely new Madone. The old one is delegated to bad weather and nasty conditions already. I'll probably try to get some of those kool stop pads eventually, but I wont be putting any money into it.


Even though I don't have this particular problem (actually i have no problems at all) on my madone, I am longing for even nicer wheels on it....lighter....faster... Maybe next christmas....

OK finally had time to pull one of those links......

http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Brake_Pa...ct_20455.shtml