Just keep pedaling.
Where does this shame idea come from in having triple?
V.
Darned if I know !I don't feel "shamed" in the least for having a triple.
I used to use the small ring a lot to get me up hills.
I've gotten a lot stronger, and I use my granny a lot less now, mostly if the grade kicks up to around 10% (oh, who the heck am I kidding, 8%, or on a yuck day like today, 6%) or if I'm really tired. It's nice to have.
Last edited by jobob; 04-08-2007 at 04:11 PM.
2009 Lynskey R230 Houseblend - Brooks Team Pro
2007 Rivendell Bleriot - Rivet Pearl
There is no shame in riding with a triple!
The only drawback to having one is that you are kind of stuck with it. Yes you can convert a triple to a double (and vice/versa), but by the time that you buy a new bottom bracket, new derailleurs, new cranks, etc. you usually have spent enough to nearly buy a new bike....
If you think you might outgrow a triple then go with the compact double, - its drawback is slightly less of a gear range as compared to the triple (especially at the top end).
btw - I think a lot of people who have triples don't think they could get by without the granny gears, but - a triple is often a 30-42-52, so if you don't use the granny ring you are climbing in the 42! a standard double is a 39-53, so its not really like climbing in your middle ring at all. With a compact double you are usually going down to a 36 or a 34 for the small ring.
Last edited by Eden; 04-08-2007 at 06:09 AM.
"Sharing the road means getting along, not getting ahead" - 1994 Washington State Driver's Guide
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Congrats on the beautiful bike! From where you live and ride, and given your current level of fitness, I would recommend the triple. I have ridden both, and while I currently have compact doubles on both my bikes, I have had to pair them with a mountain cassette and derailleur in back to get up everything I want. and then I feel at times the gears are further apart than I'd like. A compact double is easier to keep in tune, but if I had it to do over I would get a triple. As you get stronger, you can always go to a tighter casette in back and/or just use the granny for emergencies.
p.s. I agree with the recommendation to do it now while the cost is minimal. Doing it later will cost you a lot!
I had a triple on my bike for 5 years. I recently rebuilt the bike and put a compact (50/34) on it. The bike lost a lot of weight in the process (the rebuild shaved over 2 pounds off the bike - not insignificant when it was already just a 20 pound bike.) and the drivetrain is much less complicated. Although I opted to keep a 12-25 spread in the back, you can play with the cassette to an extent and not lose any of the low-end gearing you would get with a triple.
Frankly, I'd rather haul a lighter bike with slightly less low-end gearing up a hill, than a heavier bike up a hill with a granny. But that's me. If you are reasonably fit, and the hills are moderate in your area, I think a compact crank should be fine. Have them put a 12-27 on the back, and you'll never miss the gearing over a triple.
My $0.02.
2007 Seven ID8 - Bontrager InForm
2003 Klein Palomino - Terry Firefly (?)
2010 Seven Cafe Racer - Bontrager InForm
2008 Cervelo P2C - Adamo Prologue Saddle
I ride with a normal double (not a compact); I have a triple on my cyclocross bike since I ride it off road and the extra gears come in handy there. I do not like how slow the triple is to shift up front in comparison to a double.
When I bought my carbon fiber giant I went with the normal double cause the bike is so light and I didn't need much more than than because of the lightness of the bike. This works for me for 99% of my riding. The only time I was wishing for a COMPACT double was in the mountains of Colorado last year on the 5th riding day of a 6 day ride - Bicycle Tour of Colorado - mountain passes every day and on average 80 miles or so per day. But, I still made it with my regular double. I have been riding a long time, but am not really a great climber, just a steady one.
If I had a choice between a compact double and a triple, I would go with the double. For me the triple is just not responsive enough when shifting and too heavy.
I've never ridden in Colorado. I have ridden where the original poster rides. This is the profile of just one of the climbs around here, and incidentally one she may do on the Marin Century. It's not a moderate climb.
The original poster hasn't been riding for years. Unless she is already really fit, a compact double probably won't serve her well.
V.
I'm (surprisingly) with Veronica and jobob on this in regards to the original poster...
If she's just starting out, riding in any of the states with big bumps, go with the triple. It'll be far more satisfying to be able to finish a ride without blowing out a knee... believe me, her butts gonna be sore as it is. The triple will give her a break.
I say surprising above, not because I ever disagree with you girls (nope, not me), but because of my own "triple-avoidance-syndrome".
spazz
no regrets!
My ride: 2003 Specialized Allez Comp - zebra (men's 52cm), Speedplay X5 pedals, Koobi Au Enduro saddle
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Hey RHG!
Welcome to the Giant club.. and welcome to the Bike Nut one. Guys there are really, really nice and patient. It's how I ended up with my baby.. also a TCR.
I love my bike.
I bought it used from Huseyin since I didn't really want to spend that much on a bike.. and frankly cuz I think he just wanted me outta his store. I was standing there for hours trying to decide on a bike (and on whether to go with him or another bs).
Tell Huseyin that my black 03 TCR is doing great and that I've doubled the mileage on it since he sold it to me!
My bike did come with a double. A normal double... ok, ok, with a big honking cassette on the back that Huseyin put on for me. I don't know what a triple feels like..
I think as someone similar to your profile.. I'd go for the triple. And having grown up in Marin.. uh.. ya.. go for the triple. Gives you options. When you toughen up and have more mileage under you, then you can convert back if you really want to but I think for now, it's better to have options and to build up that confidence than to worry about weight (50-100 g) or whatever.
My newbie, unknowledgeable, .002![]()
Push the pedal down watch the world around fly by us
I went through what you're going through - what gearing to get- did all the research, asked new roadies, old roadies, my LBS etc. I ended up really learning a lot about gearing/gear ratios from various websites.
I ended up getting the TCRw with the compact (34/50)- and swapping out the cassette to a 12-27 (instead of the standard 12-25 that comes with it). This gave me all but the very lowest gear from my old triple (I had a 30/39/52 with a 11-28 cassette). The compact shifts gears easier and supposedly does not wear out so quickly. It is, as others have said, lighter.
Conrats on your new bike - it's beautiful!
Ms Liz
I bet you made other changes besides the triple to double to shave 2 LBS. I didn't find much of a weight change at all going from a triple to a double, although I agree that I like the mechanical simplicity (and if you end up having to put on a larger rear casette and longer cage rear derailleur you are adding weight in the back as you take it off the front). But I think for the poster in question, she is better off with a triple.
Hi Regina,
I am about to inherit 2 great used 2006 bikes (long story with very happy ending, obviously!) in impeccable condition, one of which is a full Dura Ace carbon bike with 53/39 and the other an aluminum bike (w/carbon forks and stays) with Ultegra cassette, Dura Ace triple cranks, D.A. shifters and derailleurs (front is even a "D.A. triple derailleur"). On my old (old) bike I have an FSA Gossamer Mega-Exo 50-34 compact, which I love, love, love. I am in a really hilly area and to get into condition with the 53/39 was super tough. Now that I'm riding well, the 50-34 suits me just fine. I see no shame in triples at all (take care of your knees and enjoy your rides more my dears!!), I just don't want to deal with all the extra clicking around. A compact with a bigger spread in back has worked just fine for me and I enjoy the challenge.
Anyway, I wonder if you or someone else can advise me on this question: I want to replace the D.A. 53/39 on the carbon bike with a compact. Though I have this FSA compact on the old bike that I could use, I've heard that it is better to stick with Shimano when everything else is Shimano (and it is, even wheels and seatpost!), and have heard great things about the Shimano compact (and can even get it with 165mm cranks!). Question: if I get a Shimano compact, would it require just changing out the 53/39 and cranks or do I need to change shifters, derailleurs, or anything else (BB?)? I believe it is all compatible but since I want to do the work myself, I want to be really sure... (yes, my secret dream is to be a wench wrench). I am also not sure what, if anything, needs to happen re: bottom bracket. The 53/39 crankset is Shimano D.A. w/Integrated spindle, with Shimano Exterior Bearing System (and D.A. everything else). Another option would be to move the FSA over to the carbon D.A. bike - cheaper! - but I like the idea of sticking to all Shimano.
Which leads me to the second question...I would like to move the FSA compact from my old bike to the new aluminum-carbon bike with the D.A. triple. Here we go again -- what needs to change in shifters/brakes, etc. in order for everything to work smoothly?
Thanks so much for any advice you can offer! I really appreciate it.
- O![]()
[QUOTE=Ogresse;189226]Hi Regina,
Question: if I get a Shimano compact, would it require just changing out the 53/39 and cranks or do I need to change shifters, derailleurs, or anything else (BB?)? I believe it is all compatible but since I want to do the work myself, I want to be really sure... (yes, my secret dream is to be a wench wrench). I am also not sure what, if anything, needs to happen re: bottom bracket. The 53/39 crankset is Shimano D.A. w/Integrated spindle, with Shimano Exterior Bearing System (and D.A. everything else). Another option would be to move the FSA over to the carbon D.A. bike - cheaper! - but I like the idea of sticking to all Shimano.
Which leads me to the second question...I would like to move the FSA compact from my old bike to the new aluminum-carbon bike with the D.A. triple. Here we go again -- what needs to change in shifters/brakes, etc. in order for everything to work smoothly?
QUOTE]
Hi there.
My bike (a '99 Seven Axiom Ti) had full Ultegra 9-spd triple on it.
I rebuilt it with D.A. everything - EXCEPT the crankset which is an FSA SLK MegaExo compact (50-34). Going from a triple to a double required a new f.d. and shifter to handle it. It is generally required to get a compact-specific f.d. - one that can handle the big jump from 34 (or 36) to 50 teeth.
Since I also went from a 9-spd to a 10-spd, I got a new r.d. and shifter for the rear. The Shimano compact wasn't out yet when I rebuilt the Seven (October '05) - but was due at any moment. I just didn't want to wait! I have had no problems with compatibility. I did have the LBS put an "anti-chain-suck-thang" - or whatever they're called - on the downtube. No problems with chain suck, although if I'm not careful, I can throw the chain off the outter ring onto the crankarms with shift-ups. That's a user error and I need to watch where I am on the cassette when I make my shift.
Since I went to a MegaExo crankset, the BB came with it, so it was not an option to replace the Shimano BB (which was dead, anyway, and needed to be replaced).
So...in summary: I have a mix of FSA and Shimano parts and I've had no compatibility issues. Everything on the bike works fine. It's the rider who has the difficulty!![]()
2007 Seven ID8 - Bontrager InForm
2003 Klein Palomino - Terry Firefly (?)
2010 Seven Cafe Racer - Bontrager InForm
2008 Cervelo P2C - Adamo Prologue Saddle