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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    150

    Anyone here know about vintage steel bikes?

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    I have some questions about whether or not I should buy an older steel bike and fix it up. Has anyone here done this or know about what to look for when purchasing something like this?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    747
    Although there are a lot of not very nice people over at bikeforums.net, the guys on the classic/vintage forum are really helpful and pretty much know everything. And older steel road bikes are the main thing they talk about.

    My husband and I have a lot of old steel road bikes that we've picked up here and there, but nothing very exciting or exotic, and I only know what I've learned from reading bikeforums.net.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    I think there's some definite steel expertise here. What kind of bike are you looking at? Lugged or unlugged? Weight? Brand name? Tubing? Frame angles? Wheelbase? What use do you want to get out of the bike? Commuting, fast rides, touring?

    Maybe the first big question is whether the frame really fits you.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    8,548
    can you tell? Deb knows more about steel bikes than we'll ever even understand!

    And she's 100% correct. does the bike fit?
    Mimi Team TE BIANCHISTA
    for six tanks of gas you could have bought a bike.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    If you ever find a Reynolds 531 or Columbus tubing frame in your size, grab it. But you'd want to know if it's straight-gage, double butted, or triple butted. Straight-gage can be rather stiff, and triple-butted could potentially be a bit whippy. That's the high end of the steel vintage market.

    At the low end are American-made frames, usually welded, not lugged, that take 1-piece cranks and weigh too much. Best to avoid them.

    In the middle are various grades of chrome-moly steel.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    150
    Okay...great! I have some interested people. Sometimes I get ignored on cyclingforums.com.

    It's a Miyata 710. It needs some TLC for sure. The rear cogs and derailleur were gunked up, some surface rust on the chain (nothing major). The frame itself has some scratches and a few rust spots. The tires will need to be replaced and the brakes need something! Adjustment - maybe new pads.

    It's pretty close to fitting. The measurements are a little different from my Trek, but really close. Standover is fine. The top tube is a tad long (maybe 1/2 longer than my trek, but the stem is shorter than on my Trek). I moved the seat up (is was back far) and that helped. Riding it is comfy, but reaching the brakes is tricky. The brakes are kind of far down and since many people don't ride on the hoods on the older bikes, they can be hard to get to.

    The tires had barely enough air in them and despite the gunk on the parts, I could not believe how nice this bike shifted. It was like butter! The ride was really smooth, too.

    I guess I was looking for a vintage steel bike just for variety. I have a Trek 1500 which is great, but I thought steel might be nice for...maybe some medium to long rides. I figured if I could find something cheap and not have to put much money in it, I could have a neat vintage ride.

    The guy was asking $95, but I thought of offering him less because of the tires and such.

    Thoughts? Advice? Thank you!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    8,548
    make an offer! if he doesn't like it, you can always come up with the $95.00
    right?

    And welcome to the club. There are a lot of us here struggling with (or who have struggled with) top tubes that are too long.
    Mimi Team TE BIANCHISTA
    for six tanks of gas you could have bought a bike.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    On my bike
    Posts
    2,505
    Quote Originally Posted by DebW View Post
    If you ever find a Reynolds 531 or Columbus tubing frame in your size, grab it.

    Wow, maybe my bike fits this category?? It's Reynolds 531 & lugged. Of course, its rider is vintage too...
    To train a dog, you must be more interesting than dirt.

    Trek Project One
    Trek FX 7.4 Hybrid

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by Dogmama View Post
    Wow, maybe my bike fits this category?? It's Reynolds 531 & lugged. Of course, its rider is vintage too...
    Post a picture so I can drool.

    Quote Originally Posted by kaian View Post
    Okay...great! I have some interested people. Sometimes I get ignored on cyclingforums.com.

    It's a Miyata 710. It needs some TLC for sure. The rear cogs and derailleur were gunked up, some surface rust on the chain (nothing major). The frame itself has some scratches and a few rust spots. The tires will need to be replaced and the brakes need something! Adjustment - maybe new pads.

    It's pretty close to fitting. The measurements are a little different from my Trek, but really close. Standover is fine. The top tube is a tad long (maybe 1/2 longer than my trek, but the stem is shorter than on my Trek). I moved the seat up (is was back far) and that helped. Riding it is comfy, but reaching the brakes is tricky. The brakes are kind of far down and since many people don't ride on the hoods on the older bikes, they can be hard to get to.

    The tires had barely enough air in them and despite the gunk on the parts, I could not believe how nice this bike shifted. It was like butter! The ride was really smooth, too.

    I guess I was looking for a vintage steel bike just for variety. I have a Trek 1500 which is great, but I thought steel might be nice for...maybe some medium to long rides. I figured if I could find something cheap and not have to put much money in it, I could have a neat vintage ride.

    The guy was asking $95, but I thought of offering him less because of the tires and such.

    Thoughts? Advice? Thank you!
    A quick search on Miyata 710 looks like its a very nice frame. Not 531, but quite nice nonetheless. How many cogs and chainrings? Where are the shifters located (downtube?)? The 5 and 6 speed freewheels are now hard, but not impossible, to get. Definitely start with a new chain. What kind of crankset? Derailleurs? Brakes? 27 inch or 700c wheels? You shouldn't have any major problem with replacement parts. The brake levers can probably be moved so you can reach them easier.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    150
    It's a 10 speed so 2 X 5. Downtube shifters. The crankset is a Sugino - it's pretty cool looking. Derailleurs are Suntour Cyclones. 700c wheels that are made by Ukai. The brakes are Dia Compe, but they need some help.

    I have a friend who thinks this will be easy to clean up and get in working order. He hasn't seen the bike, but just from my description, that's his take.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by kaian View Post
    It's a 10 speed so 2 X 5. Downtube shifters. The crankset is a Sugino - it's pretty cool looking. Derailleurs are Suntour Cyclones. 700c wheels that are made by Ukai. The brakes are Dia Compe, but they need some help.
    I don't like Dia Compe brakes. They flex too much and never feel as solid as they should. You can probably get them working adequately, but I'd consider replacing them at some point. Weinneman's of the same vintage were much better if you can find a pair. Nice to hear that it shifts like butter. Downtube shifters give you a nice direct link to the derailleurs with minumal cabling.

    Quote Originally Posted by kaian View Post
    I have a friend who thinks this will be easy to clean up and get in working order. He hasn't seen the bike, but just from my description, that's his take.
    I'd agree with him.

    Ask the seller if he has the crank puller or freewheel puller for this bike. Sugino might take the most standard and easily available puller, but you need to be sure you've got one. What make is the freewheel? Suntour? They made a 2-prong and a 4-prong version. I'd suggest checking out the hub, bb, and headset bearings when you get the bike and repack as necessary. A lot of people ignore their bearing until they are shot.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    150
    Hmmm...looks like I'll be learning some more in-depth bike mechanics. Thanks so much for the info. I emailed the guy to let him know I'd like to come back and look at it again (and possibly buy). I made him a low offer, so we'll see what he comes back with.

    I have no idea how to repack bearings, but I'm hoping my friend can help me. I doubt this guy has the crank puller. He's not the original owner and expressed that he doesn't know much about the bike. Thanks for the tip on the brakes! They felt pretty squishy and useless, but again, I wasn't sure if it was because they have been neglected for so long.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by kaian View Post
    Thanks for the tip on the brakes! They felt pretty squishy and useless, but again, I wasn't sure if it was because they have been neglected for so long.
    Squishy is an appropriate term for Dia Compe brakes. Of course I don't know if they
    are adjusted as well as possible, but they really do feel squishy under the best of circumstances.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    848
    Kaian, thanks for starting this thread. Didn't know there was a steel person here.

    I bought a used steel bike too. It's a Panasonic. That's about all I know about it. I too have the dia compe brakes, Shimano SIS components, Araya 700cc wheels, downtube shifters, 6x2 (12 speed).

    I have a friend who has a person come out to do mechanical work on their bikes and he's apparently pretty cheap. How much money should I put into it before it's no longer worthwhile?

    I kinda like the nice clean look of the older bikes. Just simple and clean.

    Here's some (bad) pics if anyone's curious: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rogued...cd.jpg&.src=ph

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    747
    Wow, where are you all finding these old bikes with 700c wheels? Ours are all 27", with the exception of a couple from the 90s. I'm jealous, 700c are so much easier to find.

    We are going to try to see if 700cs will work on my mixte (it's really just a matter of whether the brakes will reach) because otherwise I am going to have to order a custom wheelset ... I need a touring wheelset with a flip-flop hub because it's a single speed but I carry tons of groceries, and nobody stocks such a thing in 27". (Harris Cyclery used to, but not anymore.)

 

 

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