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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    150
    It's a 10 speed so 2 X 5. Downtube shifters. The crankset is a Sugino - it's pretty cool looking. Derailleurs are Suntour Cyclones. 700c wheels that are made by Ukai. The brakes are Dia Compe, but they need some help.

    I have a friend who thinks this will be easy to clean up and get in working order. He hasn't seen the bike, but just from my description, that's his take.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by kaian View Post
    It's a 10 speed so 2 X 5. Downtube shifters. The crankset is a Sugino - it's pretty cool looking. Derailleurs are Suntour Cyclones. 700c wheels that are made by Ukai. The brakes are Dia Compe, but they need some help.
    I don't like Dia Compe brakes. They flex too much and never feel as solid as they should. You can probably get them working adequately, but I'd consider replacing them at some point. Weinneman's of the same vintage were much better if you can find a pair. Nice to hear that it shifts like butter. Downtube shifters give you a nice direct link to the derailleurs with minumal cabling.

    Quote Originally Posted by kaian View Post
    I have a friend who thinks this will be easy to clean up and get in working order. He hasn't seen the bike, but just from my description, that's his take.
    I'd agree with him.

    Ask the seller if he has the crank puller or freewheel puller for this bike. Sugino might take the most standard and easily available puller, but you need to be sure you've got one. What make is the freewheel? Suntour? They made a 2-prong and a 4-prong version. I'd suggest checking out the hub, bb, and headset bearings when you get the bike and repack as necessary. A lot of people ignore their bearing until they are shot.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    150
    Hmmm...looks like I'll be learning some more in-depth bike mechanics. Thanks so much for the info. I emailed the guy to let him know I'd like to come back and look at it again (and possibly buy). I made him a low offer, so we'll see what he comes back with.

    I have no idea how to repack bearings, but I'm hoping my friend can help me. I doubt this guy has the crank puller. He's not the original owner and expressed that he doesn't know much about the bike. Thanks for the tip on the brakes! They felt pretty squishy and useless, but again, I wasn't sure if it was because they have been neglected for so long.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by kaian View Post
    Thanks for the tip on the brakes! They felt pretty squishy and useless, but again, I wasn't sure if it was because they have been neglected for so long.
    Squishy is an appropriate term for Dia Compe brakes. Of course I don't know if they
    are adjusted as well as possible, but they really do feel squishy under the best of circumstances.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    848
    Kaian, thanks for starting this thread. Didn't know there was a steel person here.

    I bought a used steel bike too. It's a Panasonic. That's about all I know about it. I too have the dia compe brakes, Shimano SIS components, Araya 700cc wheels, downtube shifters, 6x2 (12 speed).

    I have a friend who has a person come out to do mechanical work on their bikes and he's apparently pretty cheap. How much money should I put into it before it's no longer worthwhile?

    I kinda like the nice clean look of the older bikes. Just simple and clean.

    Here's some (bad) pics if anyone's curious: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rogued...cd.jpg&.src=ph

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    747
    Wow, where are you all finding these old bikes with 700c wheels? Ours are all 27", with the exception of a couple from the 90s. I'm jealous, 700c are so much easier to find.

    We are going to try to see if 700cs will work on my mixte (it's really just a matter of whether the brakes will reach) because otherwise I am going to have to order a custom wheelset ... I need a touring wheelset with a flip-flop hub because it's a single speed but I carry tons of groceries, and nobody stocks such a thing in 27". (Harris Cyclery used to, but not anymore.)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by roguedog View Post
    Kaian, thanks for starting this thread. Didn't know there was a steel person here.
    Are you talking about me? DebW, woman of steel - sounds like a superhero.

    Quote Originally Posted by roguedog View Post
    I have a friend who has a person come out to do mechanical work on their bikes and he's apparently pretty cheap.
    Now maybe that's my next occupation: DebW, the traveling steel bike doctor and cheap date. [Note that "date" refers to an appointment with a bicycle (either gender accepted).]


    Quote Originally Posted by xeney View Post
    Wow, where are you all finding these old bikes with 700c wheels? Ours are all 27", with the exception of a couple from the 90s. I'm jealous, 700c are so much easier to find.

    We are going to try to see if 700cs will work on my mixte (it's really just a matter of whether the brakes will reach) because otherwise I am going to have to order a custom wheelset.
    Or DebW, the mail order vintage wheelbuilder - send me your vintage hub and I'll add a new rim.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  8. #8
    Kitsune06 Guest
    Moved from another thread... Yeah. I'm saving my nickels and pennies, and the day I have my major debts paid off and can start on student loan debt (HA!) I'm going to invest in an older steel cx bike.
    Sure new bikes are nice, but I dream of looking over a '70s Raleigh or Schwinn, running my fingers over little scratches from everyday use, feeling her take the pavement and paths with well-practiced grace and ride her the way she'd been waiting for. I'd assure her that her scuffs are the imperfections that create her perfection and uniqueness. She'd have a Brooks saddle, and I'd learn how to wrap and varnish her handlebars, just for her. A classic beauty, and she'd be mine.
    *sigh*

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Victoria BC
    Posts
    531
    Quote Originally Posted by kaian View Post
    It's a 10 speed so 2 X 5. Downtube shifters. The crankset is a Sugino - it's pretty cool looking. Derailleurs are Suntour Cyclones. 700c wheels that are made by Ukai. The brakes are Dia Compe, but they need some help.

    I have a friend who thinks this will be easy to clean up and get in working order. He hasn't seen the bike, but just from my description, that's his take.

    Hoo baby! If you don't take this Miyata, can I have it? Others' comments about the DiaCompe brakes are valid; if you want to keep the bike close to original, try to find a set of Gran-Compe brakes. Made by DiaCompe, but MUCH better made.
    By the sound of the component set, the frame may well be Ishiwata or Tange (formerly Champion) tubing.....probably butted. And man..SunTour Cyclone drivetrain???
    The SunTour Cyclone (and Cyclone II) line was GREAT stuff....better than Shimano and as durable and functional as Simplex, Huret, and Campy.
    If you have trouble reaching the brakes, you can try rotating the bars "forward", and moving the brakes up the curve of the bar until you find a comfortable spot. Or...a stem with a shorter reach.
    For a little money, and assuming it can be adjusted to fit you well, this bike can be made into a real beaut. Good luck with it!!
    Edit: don't forget to have the frame checked for internal rust. Light-to-moderate rust inside the frame tubes can be neutralized, then treated to help prevent further corrosion.
    Last edited by Popoki_Nui; 10-19-2006 at 08:34 PM.
    All vintage, all the time.
    Falcon Black Diamond
    Gitane Tour de France
    Kuwahara Sierra Grande MTB
    Bianchi Super Grizzly MTB

 

 

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