Anyone here know about vintage steel bikes?

[Dogmama]

If you ever find a Reynolds 531 or Columbus tubing frame in your size, grab it.

Wow, maybe my bike fits this category?? It's Reynolds 531 & lugged. Of course, its rider is vintage too...

[DebW]

Wow, maybe my bike fits this category?? It's Reynolds 531 & lugged. Of course, its rider is vintage too...

Post a picture so I can drool.

Okay...great! I have some interested people. Sometimes I get ignored on cyclingforums.com.

It's a Miyata 710. It needs some TLC for sure. The rear cogs and derailleur were gunked up, some surface rust on the chain (nothing major). The frame itself has some scratches and a few rust spots. The tires will need to be replaced and the brakes need something! Adjustment - maybe new pads.

It's pretty close to fitting. The measurements are a little different from my Trek, but really close. Standover is fine. The top tube is a tad long (maybe 1/2 longer than my trek, but the stem is shorter than on my Trek). I moved the seat up (is was back far) and that helped. Riding it is comfy, but reaching the brakes is tricky. The brakes are kind of far down and since many people don't ride on the hoods on the older bikes, they can be hard to get to.

The tires had barely enough air in them and despite the gunk on the parts, I could not believe how nice this bike shifted. It was like butter! The ride was really smooth, too.

I guess I was looking for a vintage steel bike just for variety. I have a Trek 1500 which is great, but I thought steel might be nice for...maybe some medium to long rides. I figured if I could find something cheap and not have to put much money in it, I could have a neat vintage ride.

The guy was asking $95, but I thought of offering him less because of the tires and such.

Thoughts? Advice? Thank you!

A quick search on Miyata 710 looks like its a very nice frame. Not 531, but quite nice nonetheless. How many cogs and chainrings? Where are the shifters located (downtube?)? The 5 and 6 speed freewheels are now hard, but not impossible, to get. Definitely start with a new chain. What kind of crankset? Derailleurs? Brakes? 27 inch or 700c wheels? You shouldn't have any major problem with replacement parts. The brake levers can probably be moved so you can reach them easier.

[kaian]

It's a 10 speed so 2 X 5. Downtube shifters. The crankset is a Sugino - it's pretty cool looking. Derailleurs are Suntour Cyclones. 700c wheels that are made by Ukai. The brakes are Dia Compe, but they need some help.

I have a friend who thinks this will be easy to clean up and get in working order. He hasn't seen the bike, but just from my description, that's his take.

[DebW]

It's a 10 speed so 2 X 5. Downtube shifters. The crankset is a Sugino - it's pretty cool looking. Derailleurs are Suntour Cyclones. 700c wheels that are made by Ukai. The brakes are Dia Compe, but they need some help.

I don't like Dia Compe brakes. They flex too much and never feel as solid as they should. You can probably get them working adequately, but I'd consider replacing them at some point. Weinneman's of the same vintage were much better if you can find a pair. Nice to hear that it shifts like butter. Downtube shifters give you a nice direct link to the derailleurs with minumal cabling.

I have a friend who thinks this will be easy to clean up and get in working order. He hasn't seen the bike, but just from my description, that's his take.

I'd agree with him.

Ask the seller if he has the crank puller or freewheel puller for this bike. Sugino might take the most standard and easily available puller, but you need to be sure you've got one. What make is the freewheel? Suntour? They made a 2-prong and a 4-prong version. I'd suggest checking out the hub, bb, and headset bearings when you get the bike and repack as necessary. A lot of people ignore their bearing until they are shot.

[kaian]

Hmmm...looks like I'll be learning some more in-depth bike mechanics. Thanks so much for the info. I emailed the guy to let him know I'd like to come back and look at it again (and possibly buy). I made him a low offer, so we'll see what he comes back with.

I have no idea how to repack bearings, but I'm hoping my friend can help me. I doubt this guy has the crank puller. He's not the original owner and expressed that he doesn't know much about the bike. Thanks for the tip on the brakes! They felt pretty squishy and useless, but again, I wasn't sure if it was because they have been neglected for so long.

[DebW]

Thanks for the tip on the brakes! They felt pretty squishy and useless, but again, I wasn't sure if it was because they have been neglected for so long.

Squishy is an appropriate term for Dia Compe brakes. Of course I don't know if they
are adjusted as well as possible, but they really do feel squishy under the best of circumstances.

[roguedog]

Kaian, thanks for starting this thread. Didn't know there was a steel person here.

I bought a used steel bike too. It's a Panasonic. That's about all I know about it. I too have the dia compe brakes, Shimano SIS components, Araya 700cc wheels, downtube shifters, 6x2 (12 speed).

I have a friend who has a person come out to do mechanical work on their bikes and he's apparently pretty cheap. How much money should I put into it before it's no longer worthwhile?

I kinda like the nice clean look of the older bikes. Just simple and clean.

Here's some (bad) pics if anyone's curious: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rogued...cd.jpg&.src=ph

[Popoki_Nui]

It's a 10 speed so 2 X 5. Downtube shifters. The crankset is a Sugino - it's pretty cool looking. Derailleurs are Suntour Cyclones. 700c wheels that are made by Ukai. The brakes are Dia Compe, but they need some help.

I have a friend who thinks this will be easy to clean up and get in working order. He hasn't seen the bike, but just from my description, that's his take.

Hoo baby! If you don't take this Miyata, can I have it? Others' comments about the DiaCompe brakes are valid; if you want to keep the bike close to original, try to find a set of Gran-Compe brakes. Made by DiaCompe, but MUCH better made.
By the sound of the component set, the frame may well be Ishiwata or Tange (formerly Champion) tubing.....probably butted. And man..SunTour Cyclone drivetrain???
The SunTour Cyclone (and Cyclone II) line was GREAT stuff....better than Shimano and as durable and functional as Simplex, Huret, and Campy.
If you have trouble reaching the brakes, you can try rotating the bars "forward", and moving the brakes up the curve of the bar until you find a comfortable spot. Or...a stem with a shorter reach.
For a little money, and assuming it can be adjusted to fit you well, this bike can be made into a real beaut. Good luck with it!!
Edit: don't forget to have the frame checked for internal rust. Light-to-moderate rust inside the frame tubes can be neutralized, then treated to help prevent further corrosion.

[Dogmama]

Post a picture so I can drool.

Keep in mind, she is 12 years and 50,000 miles old. This is a custom bike. It is Reynolds steel & C-Chorus.

[DebW]

Keep in mind, she is 12 years and 50,000 miles old. This is a custom bike. It is Reynolds steel & C-Chorus.

Wow. *wipes drool off keyboard* Was it custom made for you?

What do you call the headbadge/lug cutout?

[kaian]

Here are some pics of the Miyata 710 I just bought. I took a lot more pics than this for anyone who wants to see more close-ups of certain parts.

I'm trying to decide on handle bar tape and bottle cage colors - any suggestions? The logo is silver, so I thought about matching that, but not sure. I think I'm going to get some tires from Performance. I was thinking about some Continental Ultras because they have some for pretty cheap right now. Should I go with 23s or 25s for this bike?

I'll probably start working on the bike in about 2 weeks when I have more time. I'm planning on doing the anti internal rust thing and then also re-lubing the bottom bracket as well as doing a thorough cleaning and eventually getting rid of outer rust spots and paint chips (I'll need to find some touch-up paint). My experienced bike building friend said he thought the wheels felt solid and probably do not need new bearings at this point. After looking at it, he thinks the bike probably didn't get ridden a lot, but just sat around a lot. He also said that he doesn't think we'll need to replace the chain right off the bat if it's not skipping. ????

I'm new to this stuff, so if there are more great suggestions, please send them my way. I'd like other opinions besides the ones my friend is giving me. He has sort of an "old school" way of doing things, which is cool, but I'd like all kinds of perspectives. Thanks again!!!!

[Popoki_Nui]

Here are some pics of the Miyata 710 I just bought. I took a lot more pics than this for anyone who wants to see more close-ups of certain parts.

I'm trying to decide on handle bar tape and bottle cage colors - any suggestions? The logo is silver, so I thought about matching that, but not sure.

Nice!! A good cleaning and tuneup and you should get many happy years out of her.
What about red bar tape, and silver bottle cages? You mentioned having a little difficulty reaching the brake hoods: since you have aero hoods, you may not be able to slide them up towards you very much. In that case, you may want to get a stem with a shorter reach.
Good luck and have fun working on her!

[DebW]

Here are some pics of the Miyata 710 I just bought. I took a lot more pics than this for anyone who wants to see more close-ups of certain parts.

I'm trying to decide on handle bar tape and bottle cage colors - any suggestions?

My experienced bike building friend said he thought the wheels felt solid and probably do not need new bearings at this point. After looking at it, he thinks the bike probably didn't get ridden a lot, but just sat around a lot. He also said that he doesn't think we'll need to replace the chain right off the bat if it's not skipping. ????

I'm new to this stuff, so if there are more great suggestions, please send them my way. I'd like other opinions besides the ones my friend is giving me. He has sort of an "old school" way of doing things, which is cool, but I'd like all kinds of perspectives. Thanks again!!!!

The foam handlebar stuff will be easiest to cut off (that stuff is a bear to put on). Some bandage scissors would do the trick without scratching the bars. Once the bars are bare, you can loosen the brake levers and move them around until you like them. They are twisted too much inside right now. Ultimately you might prefer a different bar - those have a long drop and a short reach.

I would replace the rusty chain. You don't know if there is rust inside the pins that might make the chain weak. An SRAM PC58 would be a good replacement. If the cables have any rust at all (or maybe even if they don't) you should replace them and the housing and lube it up good. If it were mine, I'd want to open the hubs before long to check them out. And make sure the freewheel can be removed. Remember to grease the freewheel threads before you put it back.

[kaian]

The freewheel has 6 chain rings in the back, so wouldn't I need a 6 speed chain? It looks like the SRAM PC58 is an 8spd chain. Or does it not matter?

[Popoki_Nui]

Keep in mind, she is 12 years and 50,000 miles old. This is a custom bike. It is Reynolds steel & C-Chorus.

Wow is right! Who built it? I don't recognize the logo. Mmm...mmm.....sweet bike!