As far as I know, the towpath isn't paved anywhere along it's length. It's a National Historical Park, so I believe the intent is to keep it as authentic to its original 19th/early 20th century aspect as possible.
That's exactly the reason that I bought a cyclocross bike this year instead of a road bike. I wanted to be able to do longer distances and pick up my speed a bit, but I'm addicted to the C&O so I needed a bike rugged enough for that surface. If you really want to experience it, aicabsolut, you might perhaps consider renting a bike from Big Wheel in G'town.




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