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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    225

    running with a dog

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    I have been taking my dog with me while I am building up my running time. We go on a trail by our house. My question is what is the best way to train my dog to not be so distracted by other stuff. He wants to sniff everything possible and I end up pulling him to keep going, which slows me down. I love having a partner and he loves to go with me, but I don't want to feel that I did not get the workout I wanted because he keeps peeing all over the place, or trying to sniff the other dogs. I walk a good 30 minutes before I even start the run.

    The good news is that this morning, I had my longest run to date. Yippee!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Montreal
    Posts
    88
    Is it the type of place that you can let him off his leash? Because dogs run at a much different pace than people do they have a hard time running on leash. Let off the leash they are able to do their smelling/peeing, and then they will run at a normal dog pace to catch up.

    My mum said she could get our dog to do 8km on leash and then he became resistance training for her. But off leash in the woods she could do 14km or more and he would be good for it.

    If off leash running isn't an option I suggest first of all a short leash. Think of the distance between his collar and your hand, and add just a bit of slack. Check out Halti Headcollars, they are a great help in walking/running with a dog. We had one for our dog and he would walk very happily with it (he even liked wearing it) but without it he was much more difficult to control.

    other things my mum would do:
    -when she went from walking to running she would say "We're going to run now." The verbal cue is a reminder that the dog should be following your lead.

    -only allowed him pee stops at certain places. If you run the same routes often this is easy because a particular tree, sign post, can become one of your dogs stops. Allow ten seconds or so, and then add another verbal cue, such as "Ok, let's go."

    -if the dog starts to slow down, is getting tired try walking for a bit to let him get back into it. We do 10 and 1's, dogs should be able to as well. My mum would tell our dog "You're poking" (as in poking along) if he wasn't running fast enough.

    -if you're going to be out for a long time let him drink along the way. Because dogs can't sweat drinking is one of the few ways they can cool down.

    Remember that your dog isn't wearing shoes, so after runs check out his paws. If they are sore, or cut he won't enjoy running at all. Particularly watch out for broken glass while running. He'll always prefer to run in the grass because of the ease on the feet.

    And one final thing, it sounds like you don't have another person running with you, but if you do having the dog run between two people gives them a place to stick to and keeps their attention on running. Its harder for him to smell things, if he has to cross someones path.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    2,208
    Quote Originally Posted by crazybikinchic
    I have been taking my dog with me while I am building up my running time. We go on a trail by our house. My question is what is the best way to train my dog to not be so distracted by other stuff. He wants to sniff everything possible and I end up pulling him to keep going, which slows me down. I love having a partner and he loves to go with me, but I don't want to feel that I did not get the workout I wanted because he keeps peeing all over the place, or trying to sniff the other dogs. I walk a good 30 minutes before I even start the run.

    The good news is that this morning, I had my longest run to date. Yippee!
    Wow, good question. I run with my dog sometimes (usually during the winter when she can't go to work with her choice person, who works outside) and she has the same problems. Being consistent helped a lot -- going the same route every day, or every other day, or whatever my pattern was, meant she did not have to stop and sniff everything, only the most recent "new additions" If we didn't run together for many days for some reason, or ran new routes, or different routes inbetween, it was like starting over. She has to sniff eeeeevery little thing.

    Running at a "dog-friendly" pace seemed to help her, too. When we first started out going longer distances, I couldn't run at her comfortable pace, but as I got faster, she got happier and kept closer. The "walk" pace and the "trot" pace and the "all out run" paces are good to learn.

    I totally agree about the verbal cues. When she stops to do her business, she's ready to take off afterward and I have to remind her to "stay close" while I pick up and then "let's go." If I am doing intervals, I tell her "let's run" or "slowing down" in different tones so she knows what's coming next. I also talk to her if I see animals coming, something like "keep going" or "don't stop" or "stay close" again.

    I can tell when she has to stop and pee (or complete aforementioned business transaction, a deposit which I must immediately withdraw), especially if we run the same route at the same time every day and I know how long it takes her normally. After a while, it becomes habit for her to stop at nearly the same location every day (by a trash can, thankfully).

    Running a sidewalk or trail that does not have houses near it really helps us, too. When we run a 5-mile loop, we actually run a good 1-2 miles of sidewalk area with businesses on one side, and she focuses a LOT better.

    I do enjoy my "dog-free" runs when I can get them. The dog is not good at hill repeats and doesn't like really long distances (really, anything over about 5 miles is her limit).

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    225
    Thank you for the replies. I have already figured out that the retractable leash is not a running leash. He has even acted as if he needed to make a deposit in order to stop. I knew he wasn't tired because we had just started the running for the day. I do tell him that we are "going to pick up the pace", so maybe I need to put it simpler for him. He does seem to like the pace that we go at (I am just starting to run, so I am very slow). Maybe he just needs more time. I won't give up on him yet (he wouldn't let me, he likes it to much).
    Thank you
    Tammy

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    314

    Talking

    I have started taking my dog running and the more he runs with me the more he pays attention to my body and where I am at, I did some obedience training years ago and we did very little voice cues to start with, we wanted them to learn to "watch" us. For example if we hand cued them to sit and stay we would walk off using the right foot first, the dog knew that he should stay, if we walked off using the left foot the dog was to heel, they pick up on that really quick.

    The dog I have now is getting very aware of what I do, I make sure each time I stop at a road crossing, he knows he must sit, stay and look at me before he can cross, I will give him the verbal and hand cue to "go" then he can cross. I was playing the other day with him while running, I would slow down and he would too, I have never really taught him this, he has picked it up on his own. I was walking at one point and slowed way down to just a creep and he did too, then I started walking faster and so did he! He is really paying attention to what I do.

    They are good at this, just make sure whatever you do you are consistent.

    I do use a retractable leash, I trail run mostly and that way he can run way ahead and get out all his extra energy - he lives in a kennel outside all day - when he has to stop I can almost keep running until we run out of leash, I also us the word "go" when I want him to move, keep running. He has stopped right in front of me one time and I had to jump over him, then I was tangled up in the leash since then I watch him better and if he lets me get close enough to grab his tail I do, that keeps him further in front of me, which is safer, b/c he is bad about stopping to pull something out of his hair of foot.

    Sorry this was long but I learned most of this on our last run last weekend, we ran 10 miles, he was a bit tired but he plugged right along. He is a german/australian shepherd mix and occasionally "heels" me which I have made a big deal out of when he does, he stays in front of me now!

    Have fun with your puppies and make sure to take water for them! I found a harness with a back pack attached at Target, not quite big enough for a bottle of water but it is nice to have extra space.
    ******************************
    LIFE IS GOOD

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    254
    This may not work for running - but I use a gentle leader head collar (it is not a muzzle - they can open mouth to pant, drink or bite) when I first teach my dogs to roller blade with me (they love it - they get to run as fast as they want) (I let them set pace - when they stop running full out - we go slower) - but it allows me to keep control and keep them from trying to sniff everything etc without pulling on their vocal cords. When the dog gets used to the run and to ignoring other dogs, squrrells etc. - I sometimes go back to regular collar - it depends on how much dog does not like gentle leader - some of mine have taken to it and others have disliked it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    I'm the only one allowed to whine
    Posts
    10,557
    I've used the Halti/Gentle Leader and the voice commands. My dog picked up on it pretty quickly. He knows that when we run, we RUN... no sniffing or poking around. When we walk, he gets to do doggie business.

    When he was first learning that "Let's Run" meant exactly that, I carried cheese and treats in a little bag at my left hip. He stayed at my left hip, cuz that's where the goodies were! If he ran politely, he got a goodie. Lots of goodies later and he really understood that he had a job to do when we ran.
    "If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    On my bike
    Posts
    2,505

    Question

    What breed of dog are you running with? I always worry about heat stroke. Dogs do not communicate well and you have to really watch them. Often, people do not realize that their dog is overheated until they collapse. Short nosed breeds are VERY susceptible to heat problems because the air isn't cooled enough before it gets to their brains.

    I used to run 5 miles in the early winter mornings with my German Shepherd. Now, she is almost 14 years old & a three block walk is a big deal. I let her sniff all she wants these days! She doesn't see well and her hearing is going, but her sense of smell is still pretty good. She's also a little senile and has hip problems. But, she's a very happy girl! She spends her days on my bed, air conditioning going and a fan blowing right on her.
    To train a dog, you must be more interesting than dirt.

    Trek Project One
    Trek FX 7.4 Hybrid

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    225
    Thank you again. In answer to your question, I have a toy sized American Eskimo. He is a little over a year old. Did I say that he is absolutely adorable?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    On my bike
    Posts
    2,505
    Quote Originally Posted by crazybikinchic
    Thank you again. In answer to your question, I have a toy sized American Eskimo. He is a little over a year old. Did I say that he is absolutely adorable?
    OOooo - too cute! Those are dogs that run quite well (as opposed to Bassett Hounds, hehehe). I would not run him for long periods of time because his bones/joints are still forming until he is ~ 1.5 - 2.0 years old.

    Regarding sniffing - here is a cure. I don't think it is particularly good for the dog, but people have been known to put Vicks Vapo-rub around their noses. Especially people who show in obedience because you get points knocked off if your dog sniffs the ground during sits & downs. Of course, when you graduate into advanced & the dog has to do scent discrimination, you have another problem. But, people who resort to that trick rarely go further than basic stuff.
    To train a dog, you must be more interesting than dirt.

    Trek Project One
    Trek FX 7.4 Hybrid

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    2,208
    Quote Originally Posted by Dogmama
    What breed of dog are you running with? I always worry about heat stroke. Dogs do not communicate well and you have to really watch them. Often, people do not realize that their dog is overheated until they collapse. Short nosed breeds are VERY susceptible to heat problems because the air isn't cooled enough before it gets to their brains.
    Good call -- what should we look for? I always watch to see where my dog (a boxer/rottweiler mix, boxer sized with a rottweiler face ) is running -- if she's in the grass for too long, the sidewalk/pavement is too hot (normally she stays pretty close and just sniffs in the grass for a second). If she's trying hard to find a way to run in the shade, it's too hot for her in the sun. I also watch her tempo -- if she's dragging and panting, she's hot AND getting tired. I just don't know what her limits are and am afraid to find out by pushing too far and carrying her home (or to the vet!).

    I love German Shepherds. We had one when I was growing up... such a loyal dog, great with kids and fun to play with. Even when he was old, he still wanted to be where the kids were (of course, the kids weren't exactly kids anymore by then ).

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    254
    THere is an article on exercising your dog in this month's Dog Fancy (my old collie is having serious old age health issues - I spend way too much time in vet waiting rooms). It talks about building up your dog's distance/endurance slowly - and not over doing it - as well as signs to look for when to give dog a break/rest. Another thing to keep in mind is feeding times to run time - some dogs are susceptable to bloat etc if they eat and exercise too close together.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    On my bike
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    2,505
    [QUOTE= Another thing to keep in mind is feeding times to run time - some dogs are susceptable to bloat etc if they eat and exercise too close together.[/QUOTE]

    Large chested dogs (Collies, Danes, German Shepherds, Rotts, etc.) should have a fairly empty stomach before running or any strenuous exercise. That means no meals within 4-6 hours of running. Bloat is a serious condition that can cause a painful death if the stomach twists. Symptoms are a distended stomach, trying to vomit & only bringing up a little water, panting, pacing the floor. The dog MUST get to a vet immediately - that means get the keys & get into the car. No waiting until the vet opens to save the emergency room fee.

    Symptoms of overheating are more difficult to assess. You should look for excessive panting and slowing down - especially in normally energetic dogs. Always carry cold water for your dog in hot conditions & give him water at frequent intervals. Stumbling is a big warning sign - get into the shade & pour or squirt the cold water on the stomach/groin area and between the pads of the feet. Call somebody to pick you up (you do carry a cell phone, right?) and when you get home, immerse Fido into a tub of cold water & call your vet.

    Sorry for the long post - I'm a little rabid (pun intended) about this. I see so many people in Tucson running their dogs in the heat - it makes me nuts.
    To train a dog, you must be more interesting than dirt.

    Trek Project One
    Trek FX 7.4 Hybrid

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    254
    My old collie simply would not go if the temperature was over 70 degrees - she would lie down in a corner of the yard if she saw me with rollerblades on she would not get up - so we did not go (I never force a dog to run) - she did sheepherding and agility too - but if she got hot - she just quit until I took her back to air conditioning. On a good day - she would run 1/2 mile with me and then we would walk/sniff back home. (she is totally spoiled princess puppy). Now a walk up and down the block is a good day for her.

    Other dogs -a husky mix and a hound dog - would seemingly have run all day if they could. but I have never taken dogs on rollerblades for more than 4-6 miles and that was after we had built up. Both of those dogs would go on hikes with me and run 10-15 miles but not on leash so they could stop, drink, pee, whatever on their own.

    I now have a 7 month old collie mix who I am taking rollerblading - early in am or after sun has gone down - and we go 20 - 30 minutes with vet's blessing. By fall we will be going around our local park trail 3 miles. THis dog is not a very high energy dog - so this distance seems good for him - other two dogs above liked going around park twice (6 miles).

    I think it depends on the dog, the breed and the weather. I know that rollerblading lets them (generally) go faster than running - but I would think build up principle was the same.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Southwest Idaho
    Posts
    518
    I have an Australian Shepherd that will not let me out the door! He will sit on my socks or running shoes so I know he is there and wants to go with me. When I ran in rural areas, he'd always make a bee line for the irrigation ditches to cool off. Now that we run in a more urban setting, I try to find water fountains or carry his Outward Hound container so I can give him water enroute.
    Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul.

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