Need road bike fit help - I'm getting desperate!

[Zen]

I'm 5'2 with a 29" inseam and I prefer WSD.
Go figure.

[TrekTheKaty]

MS1, I understand. Be patient. I went to 3 different bike shops and each one only had 2 women's bikes in my size. And usually one of them was out of my price range. Very frustrating. (It's almost as frustrating as golf--here's a big beautiful store full of clubs--the women's corner is back by the bathroom.) Keep talking to the shops--they may get new inventory or have a line on a used bike as it becomes available. My Trek WSD was my first road bike, but I "knew" when I test rode it.

[wildeny]

I'm 158 cm (5'2") with inseam of 72 cm (28.35 in), which seems to be quite normal according to a formula . Riding Fuji Finest RC XS (44cm) with the effective top tube of 51cm and a 9cm stem.

I also prefer a WSD. This frame is only slightly compact and the bike comes with the compact handlebar for shorter reach and Shimano R-700 shifters for small hands. Shimano R-700 is important for me since my hands are quite small.

MS1, IMO, a 48cm is too big. Beside the reach, don't you need to consider the stand over height? Hmm.. I just checked Trek Madone WSD. Mine is about their S(50cm) based on the effective tt length and stand over height. (How do they come up with the frame size of 44, 47, 50 cm etc? Based on what? )

[Zen]

Beside the reach, don't you need to consider the stand over height?

It depends on the slant of the top tube. I had trouble mounting/dismounting my '07 Trek Pilot. It had a slightly sloping TT but the Aurora has even more of a slope. Much nicer.

[Cataboo]

me & my ape arms

[kenyonchris]

I am 5'4 and have a 31.5 inch inseam and quite a short torso, longish arms. I have a WSD Ruby Expert and felt cramped on it, although the standover height was OK. I am switching to the non-WSD colnago in the exact same size...we will see what happens.

[Cataboo]

I think we're probably confusing things more than helping at this point!

[Eden]

(How do they come up with the frame size of 44, 47, 50 cm etc? Based on what? )

The "frame size" is generally the measurement of the seat tube - and it can be very misleading. Different frame styles can be the same "size" and really be very different. Take for instance cyclocross bikes - the bottom bracket is higher on cross bikes so a 44/43cm cross bike is more like a 48 or 50 in a road bike....

In the end you really need to look at the whole bike - just focusing on one measurement (especially whether or not you can stand over it - too many bike shops fit that way ) can lead to an ill fitting, uncomfortable bike that you won't want to ride.

Many little women end up with bikes that are too big because they can stand over a larger bike than they really need and the shop wants to sell what's on the floor rather than special order an extra small one...... If you cannot keep a comfortable bend in your arms when you are riding, the bike is most likely too large. And its not only comfort you are sacrificing if you have to ride with your elbows stiff - you also have less control and less power!

[Zen]

I think we're probably confusing things more than helping at this point!

I think this variety of fit among different bodies illustrates why you have to test a lot of bikes before you buy. You just can't come in and say "which bike should i buy?".
Eden is so right, the shop wants to sell you whats on the floor.

[sundial]

I have ridden both 44cm and 48cm Specialized Ruby's, from the Elite to the Expert. The reach on the 48cm was too long, but I'm concerned that the saddle height to handlebar height is too much of a drop on the 44cm, though I understand that a different stem might work, but I'm not sure if it will work enough.

Couple things came to mind after reading about your bike fitting experience.

Specialized puts a stock 100 mm stem on their bikes. You can buy a shorter, adjustable stem and that will help bring you closer and more upright relative to the handlebar. However, the shorter the stem the quirkier the handling, particularly when you are cornering. Also, your seatpost is most likely a setback, which puts you back about an inch further than a straight seatpost. Changing that will help bring you closer to the handlebars and put less pressure on your wrists, shoulders, and neck.

The brakes can be shimmed so that reach it shorter. I've added shims to mine and it made it a lot nicer.

Another thought--have you looked at a Terry bike? They can ship it to your local bike shop and you can test ride it for a period. If it doesn't fit, your bike shop can ship it back and you are out a minimal fee. If you have questions about fit, e-mail Georgena Terry and she will usually promptly reply to your questions. I don't usually recommend ordering a bike without first test riding it, but if you are having trouble finding a bike that fits, you may have to resort to more drastic measures.

A custom made bike won't necessarily put you out more money than a stock bike on the floor of your lbs. It will fit you better and really, that's what it all boils down to. If it doesn't fit, you won't ride.

Good luck with your search and hope this helps.

[MartianDestiny]

Eden is so right, the shop wants to sell you whats on the floor.

Not every shop. Mine's never batted an eye while ordering me bikes. EVEN when they have one that's the right size but "wrong" color or "wrong" components sitting on the floor.

Of course I've never batted an eye with them about paying their asking price either.

Unfortunately, however, there are many many shops that have forgotten (or never knew) the love of bikes and just want to make a sale

[MartianDestiny]

Also, your seatpost is most likely a setback, which puts you back about an inch further than a straight seatpost. Changing that will help bring you closer to the handlebars and put less pressure on your wrists, shoulders, and neck. .

You should NOT change your seat position to make up for reach. You'll just end up moving the problem to your legs. If a bike shop tries to do this and they are not looking for knee/ball of foot/pedal alignment run away. Different seat posts allow you to get the proper position relative to the *crank* for optimal power to the cranks and to prevent injury to your knees, etc.

If you can't adjust reach from the correct saddle position using stem and bar swaps the bike doesn't fit you.

Otherwise Sundial's post about small changes being able to make a big difference is very true.

[ms1]

After about 6 months of trying to find the right road bike, the right bike shop and the right help at the right shop, I bought a 2009 47 cm Trek Madone 4.5 wsd and I'm in love with it.

I didn't really believe everyone saying how important the right LBS, but now I'm a true believer. Bob at Guy's Bicycles outside Phila is a genius. He worked patiently with me and ultimately swapped out the stem, handlebars and break levers (to short reach levers).

Thanks to everyone for their wonderful advice.

[Biciclista]

nice bike! thanks for getting back to us!

[Owlie]

Ooh, very nice.