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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    59

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    Thanks so much to everyone for their suggestions. I am so glad that I am not the only one who has been having problems. I had to buy a new tube yesterday so have bought one with a longer valve, so will see how that goes. I also picked up a schrader adaptor that I can try when I am feeling brave. I will overcome!

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    291

    Presta adapter

    Don't know if anyone has mentioned this but there is a very cheap adapter available that might solve the problem


    http://cgi.ebay.com/PRESTA-VALVE-TO-SCHRADER-ADAPTOR-BIKE-TUBE-FRENCH_W0QQitemZ370112191030QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item370112191030&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A4|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    foothills of the Ozarks aka Tornado Alley
    Posts
    4,193
    hand pump + presta valve =

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by Grits View Post
    I followed someone's advice in a post about positioning the valve on top so that I am pulling down on the pump thingy .
    Tried this when I pumped up the tyres tonight and it did seem to work better. It was easier to get the pump to attach and then when I finished pumping, it was just a quick pull down and it released. Having said that, I will possibly go downstairs in a minute and find both tyres flat.

    Can anyone tell me why the difference? Why is there not one universal valve (and of course that one would have to be Shrader)?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    2,506
    I don't know this for a fact, but have always assumed it is due to the narrowness of road wheels. Consider that if the hole for the schrader valve were drilled in a narrow road wheel it may effect the integrity of the wheel.

    This probably isn't as true now as it was once upon a time.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    2

    Smile

    I feel embarrassed about this, but I struggled for quite some time with my floor pump (Specialized Air Tool) and the tires on my new bike. Every time I tried to pump them up, it seemed like there was a lot of resistance from the pump. After reading through the posts in this thread and others, I realized that there's a "sweet spot" when attaching the pump to the valve. If it's not on tight enough, the valve doesn't release and allow air in. Of course that's what was causing the resistance!

    It does help to release a little air before connecting the pump to the valve and it also takes a little fiddling to get the pump seated properly so that the valve releases.

    Nice to know that others have had the same issues and that I'm not alone!

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    foothills of the Ozarks aka Tornado Alley
    Posts
    4,193
    Embrace presta valves--it builds character.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Shore Maui
    Posts
    46

    Presta Valve

    I just got a road bike and feel your pain about these valves. I went through several tubes because of pumping mishaps. But a friend told me about SMOOTH presta valves (not threaded) on Ebay so I ordered 10 of them. I have a Park Tool floor pump which works great, but I tend to break the valves off the tube more from this pump than my Specialized hand pump. I just can't get enough pressure from the hand pump otherwise I'd use it all the time.

    I had to learn to recognize the sound of air going into the valve once you start pumping. You have to pump several times to break the seal and there is sometimes an audible click and then you hear the air going in the tires. Often times the seal doesn't seem to break until about 90 psi.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Skagit County, Washington
    Posts
    1,306
    I had the exact problem when I started riding. Actually , it lasted for quite a while!

    Then suddenly it just got easier. One thing I KNOW I was doing wrong every time was that I was afraid to press the pump on far enough. This is because right off the bat I had bent / damaged one, and thought I was just being too rough with it. But now I seem to have a feel, and the secret for me is just simply pressing in on straight and far enough on. (Oh, and getting the little flip stem thingy in the right position to lock it on... that is always challenging for me! ).

    Hang in there!
    Everyone Deserves a Lifetime

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bristol, TN
    Posts
    360
    I am also one of those who had trouble with the presta valve at the beginning of riding a road bike. I bent the valves two mornings in a row on a long ride and out came the air! SOOO frustrating! One of the things I have learned is that once I have the proper pressure in the tire, (I put the valve at knee level to pump) I use both my thumbs and "pop" the pump off the tire. I found that if I just used one hand to pull the pump off that I was more prone to bending the valve stem. I also was more prone to pulling the valve stem out of the tube, resulting in an instant flat.

    So stand behind the wheel after you have the pressure at the level you want. Wrap your fingers around the tire and use both thumbs to push the pump off the valve. Try it!! I learned this trick from one of the women on a cycling trip I took and I have not had a bent valve stem since then! Hope it works for you, too.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    My own little planet....
    Posts
    162
    They are not that bad once you get used to them although I do worry about snapping them off. Have them on my mountain bike as well. Although admittedley without my track pump (got a joe blow) I would struggle! I find they are easier to pump up if you let a little bit of air out first, seems to help the valve to open somehow.
    One day, I'm going to buy a cottage in a small village and become its idiot!

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    1,058
    I have to admit there were tears when I switched from my hybrid to a road bike. Missed rides because my DH wasn't home to pump up low tires (frustrating--I'm darn independent--shouldn't need a boy to air up my tires!) and once I sheared the whole valve off because the cap was on too tight and when I tried to twist it, it ripped the tube. I've gotten used to them now--one trick is to press on the valve with your finger to make sure it's open before you hook up the pump. Sometimes they are sticky. That trick seemed to help me a lot.
    "Well-behaved women seldom make history." --Laurel Thatcher Ulrich

    '09 Trek WSD 2.1 with a Brooks B-68 saddle
    '11 Trek WSD Madone 5.2 with Brooks B-17

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Riding my Luna & Rivendell in the Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    8,411
    A little trick I figured out was to take a short 1" piece of black electrical tape and place it over your rim's valve hole on the inside of the rim the next time you change a tube. Smooth it on good over the hole, then take a sharp pen or an awl and poke a hole in it so the tube valve can go in.
    What this does is cover the sharp edges of your metal rim hole with smooth tape so that it is less likely for the tube to get cut if the valve gets wiggled or pulled on when pumping up (even though we all try our best to avoid this). Similar idea to your rim tape that covers the spoke holes and protects your tube.
    Other people apparently file the edges of their valve hole to smooth it, but I'm lazy and the tape trick works for me. Anything that can help prevent a needlessly ruined tube is a good thing I figure.
    Anyone who tapes up their own bars will have black electrical tape on hand.
    Lisa
    My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
    My personal blog:My blog
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

 

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