Just how important is that 1 inch of clearance anyway?

[GirlWonder]

So, I'm 5 1" and recently went to get fitted for a road bike. 1st shop recommended a 43-44cm as on the 47 there was not really an entire inch of clearance when standing up. To be honest, it was pretty close. The shop did not have a 43-44 in anything for me to sit on/try out. Went to a second shop who also recommended a 43-44...but again nothing to test out. Called about 5 shops close to me...nothing. (I could order something and pay deposits at most of these stores...I wanted to try to find something though)

A friend in a nearby state found a bikeshop near here that has a leftover 2005 43"...seems from the descriptions like it's a good enough bike for someone like me just starting out (it's a Trek 2100).

But...I guess it's important to have that inch clearance right? Also, the first bike shop guy was concerned that the pedal at the bottom of the spin would be too low (and he'd have to move the seat down too far...apparently you aren't supposed to lower the seat past a certain point on a bike?)...although there were no pedals on the bike at the moment.

Does anyone here ride on a bike that doesn't have an inch clearance

[mimitabby]

a lot of people believe that you need the biggest frame you can get into height wise, the problem with women isn't that clearance, it's the top tube.
There is an article on the Rivendell website about the frame size thing (not women issues though)
so if you can barely clear it, it's probably a fit... but then the top tube. are you stretching your back too far? how are your hands?

[mimitabby]

http://www.rivbike.com/html/101_pureopinions.html
ps rivendell makes very expensive custom bikes.


Fit and Sizing.
These are the most important aspects of any bike, and the most misunderstood. Most people buy bikes too small. If you’re over 6ft 4in, it’s a sure bet, because bikes don’t come big enough for you. Basically, bikes were originally designed for underfed Europeans, and the sizing hasn’t changed since, at least in the mainstream. But even normal-sized and small folks ride bikes too small.

Around here we joke that “we like to put people on bikes that are too big,” but what we really mean by that is “your bike shop and local fit guru may think it’s too big, but we know better.”

We have too much to say about fit and sizing to include it all here (see our print catalogue or elsewhere online). But basically it goes like this: You will be more comfortable if the handlebar is as high or higher than the saddle; and that relationship is hard to achieve on most bikes, because they were designed by folks who don’t think that’s important.

To determine your saddle height: see our print catalogue. You do not benefit from an in-person, hands-on, expensive and industrialized and gadget-dependent bike fitting session if the specialist is following a routing with a fundamental flaw or bi


as built right into it, and they all have that.

[Nanci]

Is the Trek 2100 the WSD? If so, that's the same as my bike and several others on here. I _love_ that bike, and wouldn't consider it "entry level" at all!!

[mimitabby]

here's the rest:
http://www.rivbike.com/html/bikes_riv5.html


The road bike, for the most part, has devolved into a high tech, uncomfortable machine, and the proof is all around us. Look through any bike magazine or catalogue and you’ll see saddles up to 6 inches higher than the handlebars. It is impossible to be comfortable on such a bike. It forces you to lean forward, putting more weight on your genitals, hands, and arms. The lower part of the drops are out of reach. People ride these bikes with straight, locked-out arms and wake up with aching backs. They endure it, get used to it, or buy recumbents.

[PAP103]

Hi GirlWonder,

I had the same dilema when I was bike shopping. I tried the 47 (WSD)and to me it felt too big because I didn't have much clearance over the top tube. So I went to another shop and they suggested I try the 44(WSD). I rode it around the parking lot but I was really scrunched on it. I felt like I was on a kid's bike. The sales person where I tried the 44 insisted that they could fit it properly but I didn't like the feel. I went back to the first store and tried the 47 (Trek Pilot WSD) again and the salesperson there (different person than first time) explained how the fit works. I ended up buying the 47 with a shortened stem, adjusted seat, and shims in the brakes. Not that I have a lot of experience but after 700 miles on it, I feel that it fits me just right.

This may work differently for you. I suggest you at least try out the 44 before jumping in.

Good luck,
Patty

[Kathi]

Here's an article that tells how to measure your inseam and determine your saddle height. Use it as a starting point. Most bicycle companies websites will give you the standover height of the bike. Look at the geometry of the frame. You can also compare tt length, headtube height, etc.

http://www.active.com/story.cfm?stor...tegory=cycling

Another great article on how women's fitting,

http://www.active.com/story.cfm?stor...tegory=cycling

[Eden]

The clearance is kind of important - banging yourself on the top tube can be very very uncomfortable (I know this from experience - rode a silly race that involved sharing a single speed coaster bike with 3 team mates and it was waaaay to big for me - help I can't get down!!) and much more likely to happen if you don't have any clearance....., but more important if the bike is that big on you does it fit anywhere else either? If it is too long you'll be robbing yourself of power and creating an uncomfortable riding situation for the rest of your body too.

(though I have to disagree with Riv's fitting philosophy too - I had a shop recommend and put on a longer stem on my old old bike to try to relieve some shoulder pain I was experiencing. Well sitting more upright did nothing for the shoulder and made my back and butt hurt too. They make beautiful bikes, but it annoys me that they seem so adamant that their way is the only way....fit the bike to the person riding it - not the way you like to ride)

[GirlWonder]

Is the Trek 2100 the WSD? If so, that's the same as my bike and several others on here. I _love_ that bike, and wouldn't consider it "entry level" at all!!

First of all...thanks for all of the advice/opinions...you girls are great! Keep them coming

And yes, it's a 2005 2100 WSD...with a discounted price so if I can get it I will...it did "read" nice anyway.

(Some back history, I just did my first duathlon on a mtb a couple of weeks ago and did not like getting passed by all of you roadies ...so I'm hoping to shave 10 minutes off my bike time by riding a fancy new road bike. With only 4 training rides I did 17 miles in about an hour on the mtb....but that was saving my legs a little for the 5K afterwards)

I guess I really dont want a bike that's too big. Is the first shop guy right...if I need to lower the seat "too much" that's bad (again, another issue besides the bar was that he didn't think my feet would reach all the way down on the down stroke).

[mimitabby]

why don't you just make him put some pedals on the bike so you can see whether or not you can reach the bottom of the pedal stroke?

[GirlWonder]

why don't you just make him put some pedals on the bike so you can see whether or not you can reach the bottom of the pedal stroke?

Well, at the time I didn't think of it and thought he just "knew"...but at the next store this weekend I will. He just eyeballed it and felt it was way too long a reach for me. I can also go back there as well....maybe he was just a new guy....

[DebW]

If you have a bare 1 inch of standover clearance, you'll be OK mounting and dismounting on flat ground. It's on hills where that clearance gets smaller and
maybe your body and the top tube meet. For years I rode a bike with a 23 inch
seat tube, and my inseam is 32 inches, leaving me with about 1/2 inch of clearance.
You can learn to be careful on the hills and tip the bike further to mount and dismount,
but occassionally you'll make contact. For me it was never hard contact or enough
to cause real pain. I suggest taking the bike to a steep hill and practicing there to see if you have really enough clearance. Try both with 2 feet on the ground and with one foot on pedal/one foot on ground. Of course, other frame dimensions are important too, and you might be prepared to compomise down to 1/2 inch of standover to get the other dimension right if you are confident in the dismounting on hills.

[Cassandra_Cain]

I know bike fitting can be tricky and there are a million theories. My experience with it though is that the method of using the top-tube height as the primary factor in fit - isn't right.

Ask yourself this question - during your average ride, what will be more important - your body/shoulder/torso/hand/pedal position or being able to stand over the top tube? How often are you going to put both feet down and straddle the bike down the exact center of your lower body?

For me anyway, I'd rather have a bike that fits my upper body and pedal position first, and have the top tube height be a secondary factor. Remember that this (height) is also an issue with motorcycles and many people happily ride with no problem even when the seat (or top tube in a bicycle's case) is a bit high.

[caligurl]

i had less than 1" of clearance with my dolce... but i also had to shorten the stem way back... cuz we found out the bike was too long...

what i've been reading lately.. is to buy the SMALLEST that bike that fits... then add a longer stem if you need it... or at least.. that's what they claim the big guys do????

[mimitabby]

i had less than 1" of clearance with my dolce... but i also had to shorten the stem way back... cuz we found out the bike was too long...

what i've been reading lately.. is to buy the SMALLEST that bike that fits... then add a longer stem if you need it... or at least.. that's what they claim the big guys do????

how did they shorten the stem? Do you mean the top tube?