To cleat or not to cleat?

[ny biker]

Thanks for the input, NWG. It is very helpful. I think my 2:00 and your 11:00 might be the same thing. Basically I try to start with the pedal as close to the highest point (12:00) as possible, after it has come up and past 12:00 and is on the way down again.

I poked around online, looked at the Spry pedals as well as some others, and ultimately decided to order some Race Face Chesters. They get good reviews and are relatively inexpensive, so if I try them and decide I prefer clipless after all I won't be out too much $$. And I was able to get them in orange.

I would like to try to put them on the bike myself, to save some labor costs at the bike shop. Looking at a few videos, it looks pretty easy, but one thing is not clear. Do I need to put some kind of grease on the threads before I install them, and if so do you know what kind of grease?

Thanks!

[north woods gal]

Okay, getting the pedals off on a new bike should be doable. Sometimes getting pedals off on an old bike that has had the same pedals on for years or pedals that were tightened down by a gorilla of a guy can be beyond my strength to loosen. That's when I take the bike to the bike shop.

Can get confusing as to which direction needed to get the pedals loose or to tighten. Simple way to know. Put the wrench on the pedal and turn the crank. Turning the crank, backwards will loosen the pedal. Turning the crank forward, as when pedaling, tightens the pedal.

Most pedals, today, use a #8 allen wrench on the inside of the pedal shaft, but some still use a 15mm metric open end wrench. Some are setup to use, either. Note that you won't get any bike tool that has a #8 allen wrench. Way too big, so you'll need to buy one. Same for the 15mm open end wrench.

When removing the old pedals, be sure to retrieve the washer that fits on the pedal shaft and that goes between the pedal and the crank arm. Sometimes its stuck on the pedal shaft and sometimes it's stuck on the crank arm. The washer prevents wear on the crank arm. Don't install a pedal without that washer. Also, be patient when threading on a new pedal. It's a fairly fine thread and can sometimes be a little finicky to get started. Whatever you do, don't force things and get it cross-threaded. Then you've ruined an expensive crank arm.

Absolutely, do grease the pedal shaft threads when installing a new pedal. You'll be glad you did if you ever want to remove the pedal, again. I just borrow some all-weather multi grease from my husband's shop. Don't think it has to be anything bike specific. Just a grease that won't dry out or dissolve with exposure to the elements.

Sounds complicated, but it really isn't. The biggest issue for me and the thing I can never predict is how hard it will be to loosen the old pedals.

[ny biker]

Thanks!

The new bike does not come with pedals, so that eliminates any difficulty in removing them.

I did buy a pedal wrench to take the old pedals off my mountain bike. That was almost 2 years ago, I think. I ended up having to have the LBS mechanic take them off for the reasons you cite. But I still have the pedal wrench. Not sure about that allen wrench -- I will have to see what I have in my tool box.

About that washer -- would it come with the bike? Or with the new pedals? Or would I have to buy some?

I don't have any grease at home. I guess I will see what they have at the bike shop.

[north woods gal]

The washers should come with the bike or crankset, but the bike shop will have all kinds of them, anyway, should you ever lose one, free for the asking. Never have had to buy any.