Ooh, while I have the plain lo profile alloy platform, I just noticed the colors. Might have to change pedals on the bright green Salsa Vaya to this;
http://redlinebicycles.com/parts/mon...atform-pedals/
Ooh, while I have the plain lo profile alloy platform, I just noticed the colors. Might have to change pedals on the bright green Salsa Vaya to this;
http://redlinebicycles.com/parts/mon...atform-pedals/
Fancy Schmancy Custom Road bike ~ Mondonico Futura Legero
Found on side of the road bike ~ Motobecane Mixte
Gravel bike ~ Salsa Vaya
Favorite bike ~ Soma Buena Vista mixte
Folder ~ Brompton
N+1 ~ My seat on the Rover recumbent tandem
https://www.instagram.com/pugsley_adventuredog/
It's not the annoying pedal flipping that I dislike... it's the actual riding on flat pedals. Feet flying off occasionally does not help the general feeling of discombobulation I feel. Add to that the pain in my feet from continually scrunching them to help them stay on the pedals.
2015 Trek Silque SSL
Specialized Oura
2011 Guru Praemio
Specialized Oura
2017 Specialized Ariel Sport
I can't see spending big bucks on special shoes for flat pedals. That's marketing B.S. Put the money into quality flats, not the shoes. If you get quality flat pedals with metal pins (not plastic) and follow up with proper technique, any kind of shoe will work, even for technical trail riding. Haven't had a shoe slip off a good quality pinned flat pedal - ever - and that's with all kinds of shoes, riding every day. I use everything from sandals in the summer to felt lined pac boots in sub-zero cold, depending on the time of year. I've also gone away from stiff soled shoes. Now prefer some flex in my shoes when pedaling. It is more comfortable for my feet and gives me even better grip. My favorite summer biking shoes, for instance, are cheap Wal-mart sneakers.The only thing I have to watch when using different shoes with different thickness soles is my seat height. I notice even that little bit of difference, sometimes. Having a QR seat clamp for quick seat height adjustment helps.
Last edited by north woods gal; 10-03-2018 at 07:39 AM.
Okay, fans of flat pedals, how do you get started on a hill?
With clipless, I have my left foot clipped in and my right foot on the ground. I move my left foot up to around the 2:00 position, then start to pedal with it. Then I sit down and clip in with my right foot. If for some reason I can't get the right foot clipped in on the first try, I can pedal around again with the left foot.
Also, when shopping for flat pedals, what should I look for?
Any thoughts on these?
bontrager-line-pro-pedals
I will be buying them from my LBS when I get the new bike (any day now). I will not lie, I would be very happy to orange pedals on my blue bike with orange bottle cages.
Thanks!
Last edited by ny biker; 10-06-2018 at 02:30 PM.
- Gray 2010 carbon WSD road bike, Rivet Independence saddle
- Red hardtail 26" aluminum mountain bike, Bontrager Evoke WSD saddle
- Royal blue 2018 aluminum gravel bike, Rivet Pearl saddle
Gone but not forgotten:
- Silver 2003 aluminum road bike
- Two awesome worn out Juliana saddles
N.Y., I do it exactly the same way, except I start with my right foot up, since my right leg has the most power. Your feet won't slip, not to worry, as long as you have a good set of pinned flats. Plus, you won't have to waste time or lose momentum trying to clip in. Just give it all the power you want and keep climbing.
Those Bonties will certainly work, but they're more of a downhill pedal, meaning they're heavy at 420 grams and much thicker than you need for road work and definitely too thick for trail work. On my road bikes and my trail bikes, much prefer something thinner for the sake of pedal clearance and, especially lighter. Expedo flats are much thinner and lighter at 270 grams and cheaper, too. Use them on several bikes. Great choice for either a road or trail flat.
Last edited by north woods gal; 10-06-2018 at 03:58 PM.
Max durability and stability. Remember, these folks are the kamikaze riders of the bike world, often doing jumps off ledges on their way downhill, hitting speeds that are just plain spooky, riding over everything in their path. Their bikes also reflect this in being overbuilt with a geometry that puts them in the optimum position for riding downhill. Not for the timid (me) I get spooked just on my downhill runs on my trails when I goo too fast and my runs are baby stuff by comparison.
N.Y., what was I thinking on my pedal position? I start at about 11 o'clock with the right pedal up, then stand on it with my right foot, but immediately get down on the seat for proper traction. It's the same method I use to get started when their is any depth of snow on the ground, since the bike has no roll when it's sitting in anything more than a couple inches of snow.
Thanks for the input, NWG. It is very helpful. I think my 2:00 and your 11:00 might be the same thing. Basically I try to start with the pedal as close to the highest point (12:00) as possible, after it has come up and past 12:00 and is on the way down again.
I poked around online, looked at the Spry pedals as well as some others, and ultimately decided to order some Race Face Chesters. They get good reviews and are relatively inexpensive, so if I try them and decide I prefer clipless after all I won't be out too much $$. And I was able to get them in orange.
I would like to try to put them on the bike myself, to save some labor costs at the bike shop. Looking at a few videos, it looks pretty easy, but one thing is not clear. Do I need to put some kind of grease on the threads before I install them, and if so do you know what kind of grease?
Thanks!
- Gray 2010 carbon WSD road bike, Rivet Independence saddle
- Red hardtail 26" aluminum mountain bike, Bontrager Evoke WSD saddle
- Royal blue 2018 aluminum gravel bike, Rivet Pearl saddle
Gone but not forgotten:
- Silver 2003 aluminum road bike
- Two awesome worn out Juliana saddles